Old Model Vaquero loading gate/cyl latch problem

[rainmaker62]

Bought an old model Vaquero through Gunbroker, ordered some Power parts and I was off to the races. Cleaned/smoothed everything up, installed new parts and noticed some dragging as I operated the action. Noticed a nice circle around the cylinder (one was there when I got it, polished most of it away). Found that the cylinder latch is not dropping down far enough. Watched a Power video on Youtube and noticed how he was only putting the gate, latch and spring in the frame and checking for function, so I tried it. Latch still not dropping down far enough through the window in the frame, but the really frustrating thing is the gate opening was tight and rough and got worse with every attempted opening. Still using the factory spring and I didn't even do more than clean up the contact point on the spring to the gate, as I didn't want to make any changes there yet. Now the gate doesn't open at all and the contact point on the spring is getting torn up. All I did on the gate is clean the corner where it contacts the spring with an arkansas stone; it's actually smother now than when I started. Again, I haven't gotten very aggressive with these parts or changed any angles, but the function now is terrible. When I get the loading gate figured out, then I can get back to the latch and try to figure that out. Any ideas?

 

[contender]

Are you sure the loading gate spring is in it's correct place? It sounds as if it has "slipped" off a bit. That point can easily get out of place.

 

[Jimbo357mag]

^YEP^ That spring can get out of place when put back together. I use a small 'C' clamp and some thin wood shims to hold it together when assembling. Brownells makes a special tool for doing that.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/takedown-tools/ruger-sa-gate-detent-spring-clamp-prod978.aspx

 

[rainmaker62]

Yes, the spring is in the correct spot. I've had the thing together and apart so many times, there's no way it could be in the wrong spot and either it's off to the front of the gate or it's in the correct spot. What's so stupid is i can see the connection between the two and still can't figure out why its getting torn up. And I'm baffle about the cylinder latch too as it doesn't drop down far enough to clear the cylinder and I could tell this gun hadn't been messed with.

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

It sounds like the spring has gotten bent. Time for some new parts. I would start with the spring.also make sure that little bar ,on the side of the cylinder latch, that the gate spring bears on is not bent or damaged in any way.
The loading gates fit pretty loose in some of the frames also. There is very little little leeway,room,for missfitting parts on that tiny cam that the gate spring rides on.
Good luck!

 

[hittman]

The mother ship will likely fix it for free ...... just sayin'

 

[rainmaker62]

I'm already ordering the parts (spring and latch) but still can't figure out what happened (and how to keep it from happening again). That spring is tough and there's no way it could have gotten bent. Plus, with the stud off the latch, the thing is only an eighth of an inch and I don't see how it could get bent. I would think the spring was too short and not pushing the latch down far enough, but I really didn't do any more than clean it up and the mark on the cylinder was already there when I got it.

 

[rainmaker62]

I'm already ordering the parts (spring and latch) but still can't figure out what happened (and how to keep it from happening again). That spring is tough and there's no way it could have gotten bent. Plus, with the stud off the latch, the thing is only an eighth of an inch and I don't see how it could get bent. I would think the spring was too short and not pushing the latch down far enough, but I really didn't do any more than clean it up and the mark on the cylinder was already there when I got it.

 

[Hondo44]

The loading gate:

There's a notch in the frame pin for the spring, the same pin mounts the cyl latch and trigger. If the pin is backwards, the spring won't align with the notch and will have too much tension. Or if the spring is not fitting into the notch.


The high cyl latch:

The latch is operated two different ways:

The gate spring operates the latch with that heavy spring for loading and unloading. The hammer plunger operates the latch when shooting. Does the latch stay high in both modes?

1. If only when operated by opening the loading gate, it's likely because the spring is binding, which it will do if the spring isn't fitting into the notch in the pin.

2. Also, is there a relief milled into the top of the trigger guard just below the sharp bend at the front end of the spring? Later guns were milled as described because of binding springs. If the sharp bend in the spring shows below the bottom edge of the frame when installed (and trigger guard not installed yet), your gun needs the half circle milled relief spot. A Dremel tool with three carborundum cut off wheels mounted together will do it most easily.

 

[rainmaker62]

Yes, the pin is inserted correctly
Yes, the relief is cut in the trigger guard
The latch does not clear the opening in the frame with only the loading gate, the spring, the latch and the pin installed.

 

[Bobshouse1]

The spring works off the loading gate, when the gate is open it pushes downward on the spring. If that spring is in place you might need a new loading gate, could be worn to the point it isn't pushing the spring down enough.

 

[Jimbo357mag]

On 'New Model' guns including the Vaqueros the cylinder latch spring is under the front of the gripframe. Take the gripframe off and see if the spring and plunger is working as designed. I once jammed and bent the spring and plunger when screwing the gripframe back on.

https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/vaqueroBisley-old.pdf

Look at part XRO4600 page 33

 

[rainmaker62]

The spring and latch work correctly, the latch just doesn't drop down far enough.

 

[David Bradshaw]

Sounds as though the camel (beveled) end of the cylinder latch spring was shortened, possibly through dressing or polishing. If so, the CYLINDER LATCH (S&W calls it the STOP, Colt calls it the BOLT) is depressed enough to clear the cylinder.

It is difficult diagnose problem without gun. Remove cylinder. Close loading gate. Push in cylinder pin----fully. Cock hammer, observing cylinder latch. Latch should drop slightly below flush with bottom strap. If it does not, problem lies with lockwork. (If the cam surface on the loading gate has been messed with, all bets are off.)

If the cylinder latch barely drops, then pops up, the HAMMER PLUNGER may be bent, jammed, or the plunger spring broken. (I do not think this the problem.)

Short of immediate remedy, follow hitman's advice, call Ruger Customer Service in Newport New Hampshire.
David Bradshaw

 

[PriseDeFer]

Did the latch drop correctly before..."Cleaned/smoothed everything up, installed new parts..."?

 

[Varminterror]

If the loading gate isn't pushing the spring down far enough, then it's not a gate problem, it's a spring problem. I have had that happen for my Ruger Single Actions many times in the last ~20yrs, the end of the spring is the "sacrificial part," it galls over time and needs to be replaced.

Dress the corner of the cam on the loading gate to add a bit more radius, that will help prevent future galling on the replacement spring. Replacing the gate won't fix it.