Vaquero action job
- Thread starter rich44
- Start date
Tyler Gun Works
jack black
Hunter
Cowboy Gun works. Jimmy Spurs
Doc Fillem
Bearcat
Goatneck Clem in Haslet, TX did a pair of Blackhawks for me for B Western and they came out very slick. He's a nice guy too! 817 247-9982
Doc Fillem
Bearcat
The Kitchen Table Gunsmith has the instructions to do the free spin mod. I've done it several times, it's not hard if you feel like doing it yourself.
https://www.ktgunsmith.com/freespinpawl.htm
https://www.ktgunsmith.com/freespinpawl.htm
Goatneck Clem passed away June 1st 2019, He was a great guy and even better gunsmith.
Diabloman
Single-Sixer
I did my action job myself. Don't get in a hurry. I'd send your gun to Tyler Gun Works. They do excellent work...reasonable!
FWIW
FWIW
BearBiologist
Hunter
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2021
- Messages
- 2,984
But, in my experience, Bobby takes FOREVER and a day!!!!!!!
buckeyeshooter
Blackhawk
Never done the free spin mod but I have changed out the springs and polished the surfaces to smooth the action for CAS. It was pretty simple after reading the instructions with the spring kit.
Diabloman
Single-Sixer
to do a "free spin pawl" the new FSP is just shorter than the stock one. Just order one from B'nells and you can install it.
fwiw let us know what's up....!
contender
Ruger Guru
"Dave Clements (clementscustomguns.com). He did an excellent job overhauling my Ruger Bisley Black Hawk .45 Colt. Strongly recommend his work!!!":
Dave is in the downsizing,, heading for retirement phase. He's not taking on any more work.
Dave is in the downsizing,, heading for retirement phase. He's not taking on any more work.
Doc Fillem
Bearcat
I'm sorry to hear that.
You could try Hamilton Bowen also.
BearBiologist
Hunter
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2021
- Messages
- 2,984
I also used Wolff Springs.
contender
Ruger Guru
"Cheap easy way to lighten the trigger on a ruger SA is remove one sides grip, disconnect one of the springs. Done. Gun functions fine. Occasionally swap sides."
While many folks do it,, and never really have any issues,, I've bought a few very desirable Rugers BECAUSE someone had done that. The leg of the trigger return spring can get hung up in the hammer mainspring, causing action issues.
It's a MUCH better option to do a proper action tuning.
(And no,, you can't buy the .357 Maximum I bought for $275 because of cocking issues caused by the trigger return spring causing issues with it.)
While many folks do it,, and never really have any issues,, I've bought a few very desirable Rugers BECAUSE someone had done that. The leg of the trigger return spring can get hung up in the hammer mainspring, causing action issues.
It's a MUCH better option to do a proper action tuning.
(And no,, you can't buy the .357 Maximum I bought for $275 because of cocking issues caused by the trigger return spring causing issues with it.)
Oldgoatroper
Bearcat
I agree. Do it the right way. Trigger and hammer springs from Wolff aren't that expensive. I Just bought a 3 pack of hammer springs; 17lb, 18lb, 19lb plus a separate 15lb hammer spring for $13.29 plus shipping & handling. I have arthritis in both thumbs. Not a good thing for CAS double tap shooting with my Blackhawk .357. If memory serves me correctly, Ruger said the stock hammer spring is 26 lbs.
This is a link to a YouTube that shows how to change both the hammer and trigger spring without removing the grip frame. Just remove the grip panels. I AM NOT ENDORSING THIS. IT'S JUST AN FYI.
(Copy and paste in your browser)
You will notice that he uses a pair of long nose VICE GRIPS on the hammer spring seat in order to compress the hammer spring. That bothers me. Squeeze it too tight and you risk deforming that seat.
The video also covers modifying the trigger spring or just using one leg as Contender described above.
I tried compressing the hammer spring as shown and somehow screwed it up by kinking the spring. Off to a gunsmith today with all my parts. I also bought a new hammer spring strut and base from Rugger*. I was going to make an extra sub-assembly with a 17 lb spring in case the lighter 15 lb spring wasn't strong enough and cause a mis-fire'.
*Just a head's up. The only strut and base available is Stainless Steel. Blued versions are out of production. My Blackhawk is a 1970's vintage. Also have a New Model Vaquero .45 Colt.
contender
Ruger Guru
"You will notice that he uses a pair of long nose VICE GRIPS on the hammer spring seat in order to compress the hammer spring."
I didn't watch the video,, but I don't need to,, as I know how to take apart a Ruger.
Once you remove the hammer strut & spring assy by inserting a pin in the bottom hole,, it comes out of the gun.
To replace the hammer spring,, I do the following;
Clamp the tip of the strut in a padded vise, with the spring seat upside down.
Using an old, (Goodwill find) sturdy fork,, slipping the tines alongside the spring seat,, and using the fork, I compress the seat & spring, slide out the pin, and carefully relax the pressure on the seat & spring.
I then can easily replace the hammer spring,, slip the seat back on it, and again, using the fork,, compress things & re-insert the pin to capture the assy. Reassemble the gun.
I didn't watch the video,, but I don't need to,, as I know how to take apart a Ruger.
Once you remove the hammer strut & spring assy by inserting a pin in the bottom hole,, it comes out of the gun.
To replace the hammer spring,, I do the following;
Clamp the tip of the strut in a padded vise, with the spring seat upside down.
Using an old, (Goodwill find) sturdy fork,, slipping the tines alongside the spring seat,, and using the fork, I compress the seat & spring, slide out the pin, and carefully relax the pressure on the seat & spring.
I then can easily replace the hammer spring,, slip the seat back on it, and again, using the fork,, compress things & re-insert the pin to capture the assy. Reassemble the gun.
There is also Jeff Ault at Munden enterprise . Of course he is right next door here and I've had good experience with his work.
Major Art Tillery
Bearcat
Jimmy Spurs does amazing work.
I have had mine done By Boomstick in Texas
I have had mine done By Boomstick in Texas
Well let me be the bad guy and say that in the heat of battle. For 99% of the Cowboy Shooters an ultra slick action is NOT going to win matches. There are many other things you can do to improve your stage speed mostly practice, thinking about how to run the stage, and watching the fast guys. OH yea don't do anything dumb. I have several different Rugers I have shot in matches with great success with nothing more than a Wolfe Spring Kit in them. Not much you can do to an Old Army except put in an 17# main spring for one and dry fire with the nipples out of it. Same goes for my Marlin and Ubertie Rifles. Uberties a Short stroke kit and lighter springs. Several videos on how to slick up a Marlin and get rid of the Marlin JAM. I have done all the required work on my stuff which is very easy to do.
About the only time a real slick action means anything is when you let your Pard feel how slick it is. I have a couple of 3 screws that are pretty slick after quite a few 1000 rounds and a spring kit.
Save your money and do the only work needed yourself.
About the only time a real slick action means anything is when you let your Pard feel how slick it is. I have a couple of 3 screws that are pretty slick after quite a few 1000 rounds and a spring kit.
Save your money and do the only work needed yourself.
Diabloman
Single-Sixer
I had mine done by Bill Ogilthorpe. Great!
contender
Ruger Guru
Jim makes an EXCELLENT point. Lots of practice,, combined with a quality firearm, and working on techniques that improve your skills, will be MUCH better than having the slickest gun there is.
I recall the day a good friend (and LEO) whom I was the RO for at a USPSA match. He was being told he needed "xyz" type of gun & equipment. Well, he blistered the stage. Later,, when the match was over,, I suggested he demonstrate SKILL. I was on the timer, and I personally saw him do the following;
Facing the target, hands at surrender, target at 10 yds. He took a simple plain Kydex holster, and a totally stock Glock 9mm as his equipment.
At the signal, he drew & fired (2) rounds at the target. His (2) shots were touching each other, and the time was .62 of ONE SECOND.
He politely explained that he spent a lot of time practicing with normal equipment, because it was what he carried daily. Lots of dry fire practice, combined with live fire practice.
That said,, a good clean action job, where it removes burrs, allowing proper contact points with all the moving parts, can make careful long range accuracy better,, IF THE SHOOTER DOES HIS PART.
A good trigger in a smooth action,, (notice I didn't say light) can make serious long range accuracy handgunning easier to achieve.
I recall the day a good friend (and LEO) whom I was the RO for at a USPSA match. He was being told he needed "xyz" type of gun & equipment. Well, he blistered the stage. Later,, when the match was over,, I suggested he demonstrate SKILL. I was on the timer, and I personally saw him do the following;
Facing the target, hands at surrender, target at 10 yds. He took a simple plain Kydex holster, and a totally stock Glock 9mm as his equipment.
At the signal, he drew & fired (2) rounds at the target. His (2) shots were touching each other, and the time was .62 of ONE SECOND.
He politely explained that he spent a lot of time practicing with normal equipment, because it was what he carried daily. Lots of dry fire practice, combined with live fire practice.
That said,, a good clean action job, where it removes burrs, allowing proper contact points with all the moving parts, can make careful long range accuracy better,, IF THE SHOOTER DOES HIS PART.
A good trigger in a smooth action,, (notice I didn't say light) can make serious long range accuracy handgunning easier to achieve.
Similar threads
