Vaquero action job
- Thread starter rich44
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Tyler Gun Works
jack black
Blackhawk
Cowboy Gun works. Jimmy Spurs
Doc Fillem
Bearcat
Goatneck Clem in Haslet, TX did a pair of Blackhawks for me for B Western and they came out very slick. He's a nice guy too! 817 247-9982
Doc Fillem
Bearcat
The Kitchen Table Gunsmith has the instructions to do the free spin mod. I've done it several times, it's not hard if you feel like doing it yourself.
Goatneck Clem passed away June 1st 2019, He was a great guy and even better gunsmith.
Diabloman
Single-Sixer
I did my action job myself. Don't get in a hurry. I'd send your gun to Tyler Gun Works. They do excellent work...reasonable!
FWIW
FWIW
BearBiologist
Buckeye
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2021
- Messages
- 1,929
But, in my experience, Bobby takes FOREVER and a day!!!!!!!
buckeyeshooter
Blackhawk
Never done the free spin mod but I have changed out the springs and polished the surfaces to smooth the action for CAS. It was pretty simple after reading the instructions with the spring kit.
budroe
Bearcat
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2017
- Messages
- 8
Dave Clements (clementscustomguns.com). He did an excellent job overhauling my Ruger Bisley Black Hawk .45 Colt. Strongly recommend his work!!!
Diabloman
Single-Sixer
to do a "free spin pawl" the new FSP is just shorter than the stock one. Just order one from B'nells and you can install it.
fwiw let us know what's up....!
contender
Ruger Guru
"Dave Clements (clementscustomguns.com). He did an excellent job overhauling my Ruger Bisley Black Hawk .45 Colt. Strongly recommend his work!!!":
Dave is in the downsizing,, heading for retirement phase. He's not taking on any more work.
Dave is in the downsizing,, heading for retirement phase. He's not taking on any more work.
Doc Fillem
Bearcat
I'm sorry to hear that.
Sacramento Johnson
Blackhawk
You could try Hamilton Bowen also.
BearBiologist
Buckeye
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2021
- Messages
- 1,929
I also used Wolff Springs.
contender
Ruger Guru
"Cheap easy way to lighten the trigger on a ruger SA is remove one sides grip, disconnect one of the springs. Done. Gun functions fine. Occasionally swap sides."
While many folks do it,, and never really have any issues,, I've bought a few very desirable Rugers BECAUSE someone had done that. The leg of the trigger return spring can get hung up in the hammer mainspring, causing action issues.
It's a MUCH better option to do a proper action tuning.
(And no,, you can't buy the .357 Maximum I bought for $275 because of cocking issues caused by the trigger return spring causing issues with it.)
While many folks do it,, and never really have any issues,, I've bought a few very desirable Rugers BECAUSE someone had done that. The leg of the trigger return spring can get hung up in the hammer mainspring, causing action issues.
It's a MUCH better option to do a proper action tuning.
(And no,, you can't buy the .357 Maximum I bought for $275 because of cocking issues caused by the trigger return spring causing issues with it.)
Oldgoatroper
Bearcat
I agree. Do it the right way. Trigger and hammer springs from Wolff aren't that expensive. I Just bought a 3 pack of hammer springs; 17lb, 18lb, 19lb plus a separate 15lb hammer spring for $13.29 plus shipping & handling. I have arthritis in both thumbs. Not a good thing for CAS double tap shooting with my Blackhawk .357. If memory serves me correctly, Ruger said the stock hammer spring is 26 lbs.
This is a link to a YouTube that shows how to change both the hammer and trigger spring without removing the grip frame. Just remove the grip panels. I AM NOT ENDORSING THIS. IT'S JUST AN FYI.
(Copy and paste in your browser)
You will notice that he uses a pair of long nose VICE GRIPS on the hammer spring seat in order to compress the hammer spring. That bothers me. Squeeze it too tight and you risk deforming that seat.
The video also covers modifying the trigger spring or just using one leg as Contender described above.
I tried compressing the hammer spring as shown and somehow screwed it up by kinking the spring. Off to a gunsmith today with all my parts. I also bought a new hammer spring strut and base from Rugger*. I was going to make an extra sub-assembly with a 17 lb spring in case the lighter 15 lb spring wasn't strong enough and cause a mis-fire'.
*Just a head's up. The only strut and base available is Stainless Steel. Blued versions are out of production. My Blackhawk is a 1970's vintage. Also have a New Model Vaquero .45 Colt.
contender
Ruger Guru
"You will notice that he uses a pair of long nose VICE GRIPS on the hammer spring seat in order to compress the hammer spring."
I didn't watch the video,, but I don't need to,, as I know how to take apart a Ruger.
Once you remove the hammer strut & spring assy by inserting a pin in the bottom hole,, it comes out of the gun.
To replace the hammer spring,, I do the following;
Clamp the tip of the strut in a padded vise, with the spring seat upside down.
Using an old, (Goodwill find) sturdy fork,, slipping the tines alongside the spring seat,, and using the fork, I compress the seat & spring, slide out the pin, and carefully relax the pressure on the seat & spring.
I then can easily replace the hammer spring,, slip the seat back on it, and again, using the fork,, compress things & re-insert the pin to capture the assy. Reassemble the gun.
I didn't watch the video,, but I don't need to,, as I know how to take apart a Ruger.
Once you remove the hammer strut & spring assy by inserting a pin in the bottom hole,, it comes out of the gun.
To replace the hammer spring,, I do the following;
Clamp the tip of the strut in a padded vise, with the spring seat upside down.
Using an old, (Goodwill find) sturdy fork,, slipping the tines alongside the spring seat,, and using the fork, I compress the seat & spring, slide out the pin, and carefully relax the pressure on the seat & spring.
I then can easily replace the hammer spring,, slip the seat back on it, and again, using the fork,, compress things & re-insert the pin to capture the assy. Reassemble the gun.
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