Single-Six Loading Gate Will Not Open

Montelores

Buckeye
Joined
Oct 29, 2009
Messages
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Hi, all. My NM Single-Six (relatively new) loading gate remains locked closed intermittently and is stiff in operation when it does open.

I disassembled it today (to install lighter trigger springs), and, since it was my first time doing so, I was not sure what I should see in there.

After re-assembly, the same problem emerged (although the new trigger spring seems great).

I found this thread about a similar problem: http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=55663&highlight=loading+gate.

Could the sharp tip of the loading gate spring be the problem? I have ordered a new spring from Brownells, just in case, but I am wondering if the loading gate itself could be the problem.

The gate seemed to function normally prior to reassembly, if that helps the diagnosis.

Thank you to all -

Monty
 
Most likely your Gate is hanging up on the transfer bar block.

Cylinder pin is in?

Play w/ the transfer bar while trying to open, also point the barrel straight up and try to open.

Easy way to see all this is gut it and only work with the cylinder pin, gate, trigger & transfer bar.

Do you have any slop in the trigger w/ the gate open? Should have a little... +/- 1/16th.
You will have to pull the hammer back a little to tell.
 
Thanks for the response, G2.

Yes, the cylinder pin (base pin) is fully seated. I will look at the trigger free play and try the gate at different angles.

If the transfer bar is the problem, should I just replace it? The loading gate has been stiff to move since the revolver was new, bu the locking closed is a recent development.

Thanks again,

Monty
 
The stiff Gate can be the spring. Remove the burrs off the back edge, and take the front edge down to about half will help reduce the bearing surface and will usually lighten the force needed to open the gate.

As for replacing the transfer bar, that would work,,, or like I mentioned, Gut the gun and assemble the parts mentioned and then you can usually see where the hang up is. then a few file strokes removed the material from the transfer bar block will usually fix what you describe.

One last thing to check while you have the gun gutted, Sometimes a big burr from milling the hole that the gate goes in and it ends up hanging in the way on the inside. Not real often, but it does happen.
 
Well, the orientation of the gun (barrel pointing upwards) does not make a difference.

The trigger slop seems to be about 1/8 inch (with the hammer pulled slightly rearwards).

The loading gate opens about 1/4 inch and then stops. When the revolver is cocked, the gate opens only about 1/8 inch (when it is absolutely being stopped by the transfer bar). If the problem is indeed the transfer bar, this may because of a different thickness when the bar is raised slightly when attempting to cock. (Does that make sense?)

I will disassemble it again, but I will order a new transfer bar from Brownells first. I will replace the spring and the bar together. Could the actual gate be the problem? Being new to this, I am not sure what each piece should look like.

Thanks for the help -

Monty
 
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Internet "gunsmithing" is an inexact science.

The loading gate's stem is half round in shape. In the "gate closed" position the flat side of the gate's stem allows the transfer bar to move freely. When the gate is open the "half round" portion blocks the movement of the transfer bar, effectively preventing the hammer from being moved very far.

I'll suggest you disassemble your revolver, and reassemble without the transfer bar attached to the hammer. Test the function of the lockwork and loading gate. Most "gate" troubles originate from messed up "loading gate retention" springs which, by the way, also act as cylinder latch "open/closed" actuators.

Perhaps if you can really "study" the functions of all the components you'll discover the source of your trouble.

JMHO,

flatgate
 
Thank you, Faltgate. The suggestion to reassemble without the transfer bar is a good one. I will try that.

Monty
 

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