Pin behind trigger on old 3 screw

[Joe S.]

This pin is worn out i think. I noticed it was binding up a little bit the other day. It caused light strikes and sometimes kept the hamme from contacting the pin altogether.

Is this a common issue? Is it the pin or hole in the frame that typically wears out? Can i get replacement pins?

Thanks

 

[Robb Barnes]

Not a common issue that I have heard of but if you send me your address I will send you a different hammer screw for you to try.

Robb

 

[Fox Mike]

What you are pointing to is the trigger return spring and should have nothing to do with the hammer strike.

 

[Joe S.]

what appears to be happening is that pin is coming out at an angle and jamming the trigger forward which seems to be causing the hammer notch to catch the trigger. i could be wrong but it only does it when that pin comes out at an angle. the hammer is tight. the trigger is tight, but that pin has side to side play.

 

[Joe S.]

this is what the pin looks like when it comes out and wedges the trigger.

this is what the hammer looks like when that happens.

this is normal.

and the way the hammer looks normally.

 

[Hondo44]

What you are pointing to is the trigger return spring and should have nothing to do with the hammer strike.

Frank,

That was my original thought. But if the trigger plunger is just barely allowing the trigger to move to the rear, it could be just enough to release the hammer but drag on the hammer as it falls and inhibit a full power strike on the firing pin. Or worse case even catch in the safety or loading notch.

Joe,

I have never heard of a worn trigger plunger/spring in 50 years of Ruger shooring.

When you say the trigger plunger/spring is binding, I take that to mean that the trigger rearward travel is minimal. How far can you pull the trigger? If it barely moves; the plunger is coming completely out of its hole and not aligning to go back in when the trigger is pulled. This could be from a worn trigger sear which allows the trigger to be positioned too far forward.

If you tape a 1/32" thick piece of cardboard on the back of the trigger to prevent the plunger from coming all the way out of the hole when fully cocked and the trigger and hammer work properly, that is the problem. It could be cause by a shortened plunger from wear or someone tinkering with it to lighten the trigger pull.

The test for a worn sear is to cock the hammer slowly. If the trigger engages the full cock notch on the hammer before the cylinder bolt locks the cylinder in battery, the trigger sear and/or hammer notch is worn or been honed too far causing either or both to be too short. More likely the trigger sear. This problem I have observed.

 

[Robb Barnes]

Sorry guys, I did not even see the pen pointing to the trigger return spring and plunger. I thought he was looking at the hammer pivot screw.

 

[Hondo44]

Joe,

I see you have provided additional info since I started my post and confirms my assumptions of the symptoms. Now more than ever I suspect the trigger sear, but if it passes the test above: the plunger hole could be worn because it's in an aluminum grip frame and the GF would have to be replaced. The plunger would not wear that much against the trigger I don't think. You could just taper the back end of the plunger so it more easily goes back in the worn/widened hole.

PS The plunger is supposed to be on an angle. That's the only way the hole could be drilled.

 

[rugerguy]

the pin hole in the frame is indeed "off to the side" (angled) just a bit, this was how they drilled the hole in from the front or the casting plug,anyway its canted a bit....and yes, the spring can collapse, ,hang up from gunk ( and oil that has gelled or solidified) or rust packed in the hole and the spring is hanging up....flush it out depresss it and watch the gunk flow out...better yet, take the gun apart, and clean out the hole and as noted above put a new spring in while you're at it...who knows the spring may have broke OR at some time some pseudo gunplumber cut a few coils off of it to lighten things up???? seen lots of really dumb things done to these guns over the years....MOSTLY neglect and improper maintainance....... :roll:

and yes, the OP did say "the hammer" is not hitting the pin, we think he meant the trigger & pin making contact :?: ???

 

[Joe S.]

it was definately dirty. i stripped and cleaned it after posting my first post.

hondo, i have noticed in the past that sometimes when i move the hammer to half cock, that it locks the cylinder into battery. maybe i am moving the hammer back to fast...

i tried the test, and i am not sure if i did it right, but the cylinder locked before or at the same time the hammer hit the full cock notch.

i know that when it does what it does, the trigger actually slaps the pad of my finger and it is actually uncomfortable... i can cock the hammer fine but when the pin flies out like it seems to be doing, it locks the hammer completely until you let it go or cock the hammer again. can not move it back one bit when it does this.

 

[Joe S.]

it does seem to be hitting the half cock notch when it does this.

also... when the pin does that, it is hitting the first notch. that is what it is doing... the trigger feels exactly like it does on the first notch.

maybe the sear???

 

[Joe S.]

and yes, the OP did say "the hammer" is not hitting the pin, we think he meant the trigger & pin making contact :?: ???

im a bad poster... the hammer doesnt contact the firing pin when this happens. i think the sear is hitting the first notch on the hammer when i pull the trigger..

 

[Hondo44]

it does seem to be hitting the half cock notch when it does this.

also... when the pin does that, it is hitting the first notch. that is what it is doing... the trigger feels exactly like it does on the first notch.

maybe the sear???

No it passed the sear test. The plunger is popping out of the hole and slapping your finger. It might have a stretched spring, a wrong spring or most likely the spring is in backwards. It should measure 5/8" and the large end goes in the hole 1st.

 

[Hondo44]

PS Don't pull the trigger anymore with hammer cocked, you can snap off the 1st and/or second notch.

 

[Joe S.]

I will take it apart tomorrow and measure it. While i have it apart i will take a picture of the sear. It did look rough when i had it apart. Heck i may buy another trigger along with a spring kit and try it. Much rather buy that than a new grip frame. Ha

 

[Joe S.]

PS Don't pull the trigger anymore with hammer cocked, you can snap off the 1st and/or second notch.

That would be great. Lol

 

[Joe S.]

This stuff all started when i got my vaquero. Do blackhawks and vaqueros not get along???

 

[Joe S.]

Altho it would look nice with that brass grip frame thats in the classifieds.

 

[Hondo44]

I will take it apart tomorrow and measure it. While i have it apart i will take a picture of the sear. It did look rough when i had it apart. Heck i may buy another trigger along with a spring kit and try it. Much rather buy that than a new grip frame. Ha

Also check for debris in bottom of hole.

You can't buy a trigger any longer. But the safetly retrofit triggers will work perfectly; just cut off the lever shown on the one in this photo. And there are 100s of these laying around that people will give you.
http://0.tqn.com/d/hunting/1/0/X/I/rugerblackhawk3579mm_04w.jpg

 

[Joe S.]

yall nailed it! i was at tek4260's place today and he showed me where the sear was worn excessively. we filed a new lip in it and it is working great now.

thanks yall! and thanks tek!!