1966 Converted 3-screw Blackhawk .357 Aluminum two-tone?

firefiterjohn

Bearcat
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At my LGS: Looking at a S/N: 752nn Blackhawk 3-screw .357 6-1/2" that has aluminum colored grip frame and ejection rod tube....but it has ALREADY been sent back by a previous owner and the transfer bar conversion was done. Asking $642 OTD. It has some slight pitting around the muzzle but no rust, about the size of a penny in total area. The barrel is clean and the action is super smooth. If this one was still in original condition, I'd have it already, but a converted 3-screw with the aluminum colored grip frame and ejection tube? Not sure on this one if it's worth it or not?

So, would you buy it if you're a 3-screw Blackhawk original condition collector? I'm leaning to probably pass on this one.

If I'd end up getting it, sure enough, another Blackhawk 3-screw might show up at this LGS...but unconverted.

Look forward to everyone's expert advice...
 
I agree, don't really need a converted 3-screw shooter grade even if it is a different looking one. I'm not even sure if they came that way from the factory or someone swapped the blue grip frame and ejection tube for these aluminum colored ones? That would make even less desirable if it was modified that way. I don't know enough about the older 3-screw Blackhawks to know if that was even an option in 1966.

Thanks arfmel, I really appreciate it!
 
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I agree it sounds more like a $400 gun, at best. I'd be fine with the grip frame because I put an XR3 and steel ejector tube on all my Old Models anyway but the pitting and conversion without the old parts would turn me off at the asking price.
 
Definitely modified by sanding the anodizing off of the original aluminum parts.
And overpriced because of that.
In my opinion of course.
TDF
Never thought of someone sanding off the anodizing! It's amazing what people do to their guns.
 
Over priced in that condition.

To re-convert it,, would cost $125-$150 for the parts. Then you'd still have a grip frame & ERH that aren't in original condition.

At best,, a $400 gun.
That's for sure. I'm going to wait until a unconverted 3-screw shows up that HASN'T been sanded down.
 
I agree it sounds more like a $400 gun, at best. I'd be fine with the grip frame because I put an XR3 and steel ejector tube on all my Old Models anyway but the pitting and conversion without the old parts would turn me off at the asking price.
Thanks GYJ44, there were no old removed parts included. Gonna pass on this one.
 
Just to reiterate, YES, people DID indeed "polish off" the black anodizing to reveal and display the aluminum (color) and make themselves a "two tone" gun. It was a bit of a trend in the old days.
J.
...bit of a trend...wow. I had my doubts that it came from Ruger that way but wasn't sure. Thanks for the info Johnnu2.
 
As noted,, it has been & still is a bit of a trend to polish off parts to give a gun a different look.

Often,, the method used isn't so much as sanding as a chemical stripping. then maybe a bit of polishing.

Keep looking,, there are still nice OM's out there,, that haven't been converted,, AND still look the same as when they left the factory. The .357 Blackhawk started life in 1955 & went until 1973 as an Old Model. And it was one of the highest production guns/calibers of the OM guns.
You'll find one,, eventually,, that the "hoarders" of OM's haven't captured yet. :D
 
People are still stripping them and have done so for years. Anodized aluminum looks like crap when it starts to get some wear on it. Doesn't wear like blued steel. I had Horvath do one for me a couple years ago on a custom .44 Special and JRH is doing one right now.

I also agree that it is much easier to first strip it with Easy Off oven cleaner and then start polishing it.
 
I admit that I did one MANY years ago... :(
It's long gone now..

J.
 
People are still stripping them and have done so for years. Anodized aluminum looks like crap when it starts to get some wear on it. Doesn't wear like blued steel. I had Horvath do one for me a couple years ago on a custom .44 Special and JRH is doing one right now.

I also agree that it is much easier to first strip it with Easy Off oven cleaner and then start polishing it.
Yes, blued steel is much more wear resistant than anodized aluminum.

I would disagree with the original GF going gray looking like crap, and I am not sure it is always from wear.
I have several collector grade single sixes that have gone gray on the GF. Not polished, but a natural graying.
It is accepted by collectors that this does not detract from the value, but actually the opposite. It proves the GF is original. '
Attached is picture of a polished Blackhawk (yes, I did it!) and an original RSS that has gone gray.
I like them both!
Cheers,
JAYDAWG
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Need to paint the grip frame with gold paint so it looks like Brass :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: (y)
 
Yes, blued steel is much more wear resistant than anodized aluminum.

I would disagree with the original GF going gray looking like crap, and I am not sure it is always from wear.
I have several collector grade single sixes that have gone gray on the GF. Not polished, but a natural graying.
It is accepted by collectors that this does not detract from the value, but actually the opposite. It proves the GF is original. '
Attached is picture of a polished Blackhawk (yes, I did it!) and an original RSS that has gone gray.
I like them both!
Not talking about going gray but getting chipped and scratched. Although I don't like gray much better.
 
I have never owned a two-tone Ruger, but I’m about to. Back story; I bought a Blackhawk in .45 Colt from Cabelas online, just had a picture to go on. That didn’t bother me as I a three day grace period to accept or reject, plus no shipping charges as they will send it to my local Bass Pro for free.

When the gun came in I went to pick it up and inspect it only to find a trigger lock on it and a tie strap on the hammer. They would not remove either so not much inspection other than cosmetic. I was able to halfazz look at the bore by sliding a piece of paper between the cylinder and forcing cone. I checked the barrel-cylinder gap with my feeler gauge and accepted it. Paper work signed, I took it home to shoot it.

After taking the cylinder out and scoping the bore, lubing the base pin with high temp grease, and generally looking it over, I dropped a .45 Colt round in the cylinder. It didn’t fit ! Tried another chamber, didn’t fit ! Most of you know before I go any farther that I was sold a .45 Colt that had an ACP cylinder in it. So…I searched out some ACPs and proceeded to shoot twelve rounds at a very small cardboard box at about 30/35 feet and perforated it pretty well.

I happen to be pretty good friends with the mad genius Ronnie Wells in Houston, TX that also happens to be a really good gunsmith/engineer/designer/ shootist/machinist.

Since this will be a hunting gun, weight will not be an issue, so I decided to go with a stainless Bisley cylinder and a stainless Bisley grip frame on my blued revolver. He had trouble finding a stainless takeoff Bisley grip frame that was suitable so he just made me one of his four degree Potato Judge grip frames like the brass one on my .41 Mag Blackhawk.

I’m looking forward to the phone call that says my “introvertable convertible” is ready for duty ! The donor gun is pictured along with the .41 mag that it will resemble… somewhat. 😁
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There is local GS that has few nice Blackhawks in .357-.44s that have new price tags for used blue warn revolvers. I'm sure they in good shape. But ouch!
 
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Need to paint the grip frame with gold paint so it looks like Brass :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: (y)

I've only polished out one alloy grip frame and priced having it anodized in brass color. But I brass plated it instead when I found out it was half the price! And it's lasted all these many years.

After the Old Army came out with steel and stainless grip frames, and with wide triggers, I switched to those.
 

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