New Model without the transfer bar??

[tek4260]

How much improvement could be made to a New Model Blackhawk's trigger pull by eliminating the transfer bar? I have several hammers and am considering either welding up the step or grinding off the top step if it wouldn't cause an issue with geometry, then removing the transfer bar to see how much improvement can be had in the trigger pull by not having the friction from lifting the transfer bar. I know, I know, safety.... It will be carried with an empty chamber under the hammer. Also, if it is ever sold, it will be returned to "factory"

Any thoughts?

 

[Aggie01]

you know, you can find out without modifying a hammer, just takeout the transfer bar and see if it changes anything.
It won't fire, but you shouldn't do your first test with live ammo anyway.

 

[tek4260]

I know, but that isn't any fun!

 

[flatgate]

From my experience the lockwork's requirement for "so much" transfer bar movement is the crux. A certain amount of trigger movement is needed to get the transfer bar to raise up enough to transfer the hammer's energy to the firing pin.

I found that sorting through a pile of transfer bars for the longest examples helps.........

I've modified more than a few New Models so they have 1/4 cock and 1/2 cock notches, a transfer bar but no "Loading Gate to Hammer" relationship. That means they load on half cock and the chambers line up with the loading recess "at the click". They have decent triggers and zero misfire problems. No soft mainsprings, either.

flatgate

 

[Jbrown75]

Wes Flowers has been doing the Bar removals for awhile now. I've got a pair of Vaquero's he did. Nice action, almost as nice as an OM, but not so far off as most would be able to tell the difference.

 

[tek4260]

What is the best way to modify the hammer? To grind it flat, which will let the hammer rest farther forward, or to weld up the face?

How did he do yours Jbrown75?

 

[Jbrown75]

Mine are welded I believe. Looks like there was metal added where the bar would normally be. I am not sure, but I am thinking he patterns them after OM hammers when he does the work.

 

[flatgate]

What is the best way to modify the hammer? To grind it flat, which will let the hammer rest farther forward, or to weld up the face?

Definitely weld up the hammer's face. Grinding off the "steps" in the hammer's face will produce more hammer travel and then the timing of the lockwork will be changed. Big pain in the .......... :roll:

flatgate

 

[REP1954]

Okay let me see if I got this straight. If I remove the tranfer bar and weld up the hammer to make contact with the firing pin I need to add a notch to my hammer for loading the cylinder. Dont you only need a 1/4 cock or 1/2 cock notch and a full cock notch in the hammer because of the rebounding type of firing pin? Why would you need both 1/4 and 1/2 cock notches? Are the new notches added by just removing stock from the hammer or is some welding needed here in the conversion? Please if any photo's are available of the converted hammers could someone post them or PM them to me.

 

[Jbrown75]

If I were to do this myownself I would most likely start with a Power Custom halfcock hammer kit. :wink:

 

[Dan in MI]

Garage hack question.

Could you D&T the hammer face andd insert a set screw sort of like a S&W/Colt style firing pin to strike the real firing pin?

(I had to ask, once the question popped I need to get an asnwer)

 

[flatgate]

Garage hack question.

Could you D&T the hammer face andd insert a set screw sort of like a S&W/Colt style firing pin to strike the real firing pin?

(I had to ask, once the question popped I need to get an asnwer)

I'd not want to try the drilling and tapping of that hard steel. Could be done but welding is simple.

I won't share my specific techniques; SR&Co. must cringe every time I discuss such shenanigans. I do not remove the transfer bars from my New Models. Never have/never will. I have plenty of Old Models to shoot along with my New Models.

flatgate