I handload pistol rounds. Mostly 2400 powder. So a 0.1-0.3 gr plus or minus is no big deal for a plinker. OTOH when I load with 296 or red dot I prefer exact charges.
gramps
gramps
How precise are you with measuring powder?
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Bucks Owin
Hunter
I too carefully weigh each "max" load and have occasionally been guilty of seeing how big a chrono number I can generate... 
But truthfully, if one is loading so hot that a measure thrown 1/10th gr overcharge is worrisome, the best plan is to simply back off the load!
Besides, best accuracy is seldom found with barn burners anyway, not to mention the needless stress on the gun...
(Maybe I should shoot my chrono! :lol: )
But truthfully, if one is loading so hot that a measure thrown 1/10th gr overcharge is worrisome, the best plan is to simply back off the load!
Besides, best accuracy is seldom found with barn burners anyway, not to mention the needless stress on the gun...
(Maybe I should shoot my chrono! :lol: )
Trickling up EVERY charge, is not only slow, but mostly not required, even with match grade loads. Most BR shooters "throw" their charges. Usually how a measure throws, has more to do with YOU, than the measure itself. Few people are deadly consistent from throw to throw and that is what it takes for the measure to do it's job. While I do think baffles help, improving your own technique will help more than anything. A good measure WILL throw consistently, if you are.
And I know some people pooh pooh the RCBS chargemaster, but mine is deadly accurate. And while I am not a full fledged competition shooter, I don't hunt and only shoot for accuracy. That said, I use the chargemaster most of the time now. About the only ones I still "throw" are measures I have had for years, that still use the same loads I have had for years, or are set up for pistol loads on turret presses. Several of my match grade loads have their own measures and never get adjusted. I have some rifles that have been shooting the same load for 20+ years. I have collected 10 measures over the years. 5 are on dedicated turret presses for a single pistol load.
Most have found that POI changes and velocity spreads...........the two things that really matter to competition shooters..........is WAY more about case prep than a couple tenths of a grain of powder.
I have always found it some what odd, that casual loaders and hunters, always talk about "trickling up" charges. I mean if you want to take the time to do it, that's fine, but it doesn't gain you anything. Do you weigh and sort cases, do you weigh and sort bullets, do you equalize neck tension and thickness, do you check for equal ogive on every bullet................If the answer to any of these is no, then trickling is a waste of time, as the overall round prep is not good enough anyway for ultimate accuracy.
Most know that factory loads are thrown by volume, not weight as well. So for 99% of loaders, by a good measure, learn how to use it, weigh every 10-20th charge and have fun. Your ammo will be good.
Within reason of course.......ultimate accuracy, has powder weight a good bit down on the scale of importance. Case prep and consistency of the ammo is key. Charge weight is obviously a part of consistency, but as stated, other things are more important than a tenth of a grain of powder.
My best "match grade" loads, which are "thrown" or done on the Chargemaster, will have a velocity spread of less than 10 FPS in a 10 shot string. If I trickle up every charge, which I did years ago, the spread is NO different. And if the velocity is consistent, POI will be as well.
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And I know some people pooh pooh the RCBS chargemaster, but mine is deadly accurate. And while I am not a full fledged competition shooter, I don't hunt and only shoot for accuracy. That said, I use the chargemaster most of the time now. About the only ones I still "throw" are measures I have had for years, that still use the same loads I have had for years, or are set up for pistol loads on turret presses. Several of my match grade loads have their own measures and never get adjusted. I have some rifles that have been shooting the same load for 20+ years. I have collected 10 measures over the years. 5 are on dedicated turret presses for a single pistol load.
Most have found that POI changes and velocity spreads...........the two things that really matter to competition shooters..........is WAY more about case prep than a couple tenths of a grain of powder.
I have always found it some what odd, that casual loaders and hunters, always talk about "trickling up" charges. I mean if you want to take the time to do it, that's fine, but it doesn't gain you anything. Do you weigh and sort cases, do you weigh and sort bullets, do you equalize neck tension and thickness, do you check for equal ogive on every bullet................If the answer to any of these is no, then trickling is a waste of time, as the overall round prep is not good enough anyway for ultimate accuracy.
Most know that factory loads are thrown by volume, not weight as well. So for 99% of loaders, by a good measure, learn how to use it, weigh every 10-20th charge and have fun. Your ammo will be good.
Within reason of course.......ultimate accuracy, has powder weight a good bit down on the scale of importance. Case prep and consistency of the ammo is key. Charge weight is obviously a part of consistency, but as stated, other things are more important than a tenth of a grain of powder.
My best "match grade" loads, which are "thrown" or done on the Chargemaster, will have a velocity spread of less than 10 FPS in a 10 shot string. If I trickle up every charge, which I did years ago, the spread is NO different. And if the velocity is consistent, POI will be as well.
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Jimbo357mag
Hawkeye
Correct powder charges may have less to do with POI and velocity but when you talk about safety the volume or weight of the powder charge is paramount. Most guns that are blown up are cause by improper powder loads. (general opinion)
Double charges of fast powder are known to be a problem. Loading trays or sighting inside each shell are important measures to prevent overcharging.
Double charges of fast powder are known to be a problem. Loading trays or sighting inside each shell are important measures to prevent overcharging.
I understand that..........but it seems this conversation was more about do you use a measure, or do you feel it required to "trickle up" every charge. Reloading is dangerous has to be done right and you can't fix stupid.............but to the original question of "how precise are you", if your measure will throw consistently within a tenth grain or so, trickling is a really a waste of time. It won't matter.
If that is the ONLY way you feel comfortable, to assure you do everything RIGHT, by all means, trickle away..........but is it REQUIRED for supremely accurate loads........NO
I have been loading for close to 40 years. I have NEVER double charged a case, nor have I EVER failed to charge one. NEVER had a squib round and NEVER blown up a gun. And as I said, if velocity and POI remain constant, however you are doing it WORKS.
If that is the ONLY way you feel comfortable, to assure you do everything RIGHT, by all means, trickle away..........but is it REQUIRED for supremely accurate loads........NO
I have been loading for close to 40 years. I have NEVER double charged a case, nor have I EVER failed to charge one. NEVER had a squib round and NEVER blown up a gun. And as I said, if velocity and POI remain constant, however you are doing it WORKS.
Chuck 100 yd
Hunter
Exact charge weight for precision shooting and hunting loads. I am retired so I have the time to do it right.
Usually I keep my powder charges within the .1gr. +/- Range when loading all pistol/revolver loads ,with the exception of magnum handgun ammo ,and then I want them right on. I shy away from powders they are hard to meter (usually).
Usually I keep my powder charges within the .1gr. +/- Range when loading all pistol/revolver loads ,with the exception of magnum handgun ammo ,and then I want them right on. I shy away from powders they are hard to meter (usually).
Jimbo357mag
Hawkeye
Me neither and I was just reminding folks that correct loading, whether precise or not, is the main goal.gtxmonte said:
I have actually seen more problems with factory ammo.
maxpress
Buckeye
Medium velocity plinkers I check every 25 rounds. Max pressure or target loads I weigh every charge.
Aqualung
Blackhawk
I put 0.1, but I'm actually more finicky about that. I use a Mettler lab balance for a reloading scale. It gets down to the .0x grain range.
For pistol and .30 carbine [and I expect .223 (just getting started with that)], I use a RCBS Uniflow. I weigh every 5th charge on the block, then a random round from each of the remaining 4 per row after all are charged (50-round block). I try to get them within .05 grains of my target load.
For rifle rounds (.300 Savage and .303 British), I use dippers and a trickler to weigh each charge to be *exact*.
Aqualung
For pistol and .30 carbine [and I expect .223 (just getting started with that)], I use a RCBS Uniflow. I weigh every 5th charge on the block, then a random round from each of the remaining 4 per row after all are charged (50-round block). I try to get them within .05 grains of my target load.
For rifle rounds (.300 Savage and .303 British), I use dippers and a trickler to weigh each charge to be *exact*.
Aqualung
Been out of town for a bit.
I agree with a powder measure method has a lot to do with it.
This has been my method since about 1983.
1 -Uniflow with a baffle (I made my own before RCBS started selling them)
2- raise handle to the top firmly, followed by tap-tap
3- handle down firmly, followed by tap-tap
This works very with stick or ball powder. No bridging issues and consistant charges. I also try to use only the large tube.
There are a few calibers that don't work, but generally I can get away with the large drop tube only.
I agree with a powder measure method has a lot to do with it.
This has been my method since about 1983.
1 -Uniflow with a baffle (I made my own before RCBS started selling them)
2- raise handle to the top firmly, followed by tap-tap
3- handle down firmly, followed by tap-tap
This works very with stick or ball powder. No bridging issues and consistant charges. I also try to use only the large tube.
There are a few calibers that don't work, but generally I can get away with the large drop tube only.
Handgun ammo, once a measure is set I'm happy letting it do its thing and checking on occasion as long as I'm a bit off of max. Rifle ammo I weigh every charge, but cheat a bit with a charge master that auto dispenses and trickles while I'm seating the bullet. My brother who's not well versed in reloading lore uses the charge master for everything as it gives him more confidence in the loading process to see every charge weighed.
mr surveyor
Blackhawk
medicdave said:
But, Dave, don't you know those electronic scales can't be trusted :roll:
jd
I hear ya. I trust it more than the one lee included with my starter kit many moons ago. Lucky to still have my hand after a few not so precise loads locked up my Super Blackhawk. We're talking cylinder in a vise and a bfh and punch to get the cases out. If I'm really in doubt there's a couple few proven beam scales around, but the charge masters been dead on every time. Occasionally it will throw a bit over with flake or stick powders, but a quick check to the readout fixes that problem.
mr surveyor
Blackhawk
yep, that's been my experience with the Rangemaster 750 .... reliable, stable, repeatable
jd
jd
Big Old Boy
Hunter
Same here I loaded 50 rounds the other day I had two a little over and one a bit shy easy fix dump it back in and carry on.I really like my charge master.
