Future 3.75" SBH

[tek4260]

Going to try my hand at one of the Lipseys Supers. I like the looks of the revolvers, but I dislike stainless so I'll make my own from a Super. Here is the candidate(victim?) I traded into yesterday. Looks like it could pass as unfired. Strange plum spot on the base pin, but it will get trimmed off when I shorten the base pin and thin the ejector rod head.

 

[Bountyhunter]

That's a great looking gun just the way it is imo. But if the shorter barrel makes you happy, then I'm excited to see the final product. You'll be doing the work yourself?

 

[frankenfab]

Nice!

I bet it will turn out great. I like the square trigger guard, myself. It appears Ruger has done away with it.

Looking forward to seeing the end result.

 

[tek4260]

That's a great looking gun just the way it is imo. But if the shorter barrel makes you happy, then I'm excited to see the final product. You'll be doing the work yourself?

Yes I'll do it here at the house. The only problem will be the billboard. I'll remove it and polish, then cold blue. I know it is sort of a crappy thing to do, but I don't have access to bluing tanks. I have a friend who applies the bake on finishes, so maybe that will be in the future for it.

 

[Cholo]

Go for it! I'd like to see pics as it progresses.

I like the square trigger guard, myself. It appears Ruger has done away with it.

It's still on their standard SBH. I like them too.

 

[NorEaster]

That's a great looking gun just the way it is imo. But if the shorter barrel makes you happy, then I'm excited to see the final product. You'll be doing the work yourself?

Yes I'll do it here at the house. The only problem will be the billboard. I'll remove it and polish, then cold blue. I know it is sort of a crappy thing to do, but I don't have access to bluing tanks. I have a friend who applies the bake on finishes, so maybe that will be in the future for it.

I get great results with Blue Wonder bluing
Your mileage may vary

 

[EDK]

As the owner of a custom 44 Magnum Original Size VAQUERO cut down to 3.5 inches, I'll share the story and make a suggestion or two. I bought the gun last fall for $350 out the door in a local gun shop. Barrel and ejector rod housing cut; cylinder pin trimmed down like a BELT MOUNTAIN Sheriff's model; magna-ported; and a superb total blue job. Somebody ate a substantial loss on this gun....at least $500 worth of custom work plus the base gun price. I changed out the grip frame to a DRAGOON and switched the hammer and trigger to a good SUPER BLACK HAWK set that I got from 2 Dogs...a definite improvement! (Thanks Fermin.)

Problems: It pushes less than 1/2 inch of the casing out. Also, you can't remove the cylinder without removing the ejector rod assembly...cleaning becomes a PITA and I like to clean the chambers after each range session and inspect the barrel for leading.

You might want to look over the LIPSEY gun if you have access to one and determine how long do you want to cut the barrel to. Do a bit of looking at the base pin while you're at it. I'd buy the locking Sheriff's model from BELT MOUNTAIN to make sure it doesn't get launched.

It's a neat little gun...at times...BUT the magna-porting disqualifies it for SASS shoots and I don't load that hot anyhow. The cost of re-barrelling and re-bluing would be within $100 of another gun, so that's out of the question for now. Just some things to consider.

 

[tek4260]

I am going to make a cam cut on the ERH to let the button swing around the base pin. That way it can be removed without pulling the housing.

 

[Bountyhunter]

Well I'm looking forward to the finished product. :mrgreen:

 

[tek4260]

I worked on the revolver for a few minutes last night. I apologize for the poor quality pictures, but the light isn't the best for taking them. Also, I am almost ashamed to post this considering the first rate machinists and gunsmiths we have around here. I am sure they will cringe when they see this! But there are a few things that can be done at home if you are willing to start them and not be scared of ruining your revolver.

First off, here are a few pictures of the revolver before. I believe it hasn't seen many rounds at all. Someone has tweaked it a bit though. It has a steel ejector rod housing and appears to have an eleven degree forcing cone.

Looks unfired from this angle

The first step is to measure and mark the barrel. I was originally going for 3.75", but that would put the cut right on the ejector screw. So I had to back up to around 3.50". I use a pipe cutter to give me a straight line to cut.
No backing up now

Before I completed the cut, I wanted to try something to locate the front sight. I will be drilling and tapping this one so I used a piece of the filler from a TC Muzzleloader that I cut down some time back. It has a flat top and concave bottom, plus the screw holes are the right size for my center marking tool from Brownells. Measuring the sides, one was .241 and the other was .245". I filed the "tall" side down to .241" on the edge that touches the barrel, so I would have a level top when I placed it on the barrel. I'll take better pictures and explain it better when I mount a front sight.

It also checks out when you clamp a straight piece along side the original front. Either of these methods will work when leveling/locating a front sight prior to cutting. Plus it is good to check this along with measuring the thickness of the topstrap at each side rather than relying on leveling only. I have seen a few of these Blackhawks that had a bit of difference in the thickness of the topstrap from side to side. I believe it is due to the fact that they are hand polished after casting. Also, reference level to the top and bottom of the window just to make sure before you go to marking and drilling.

Now that that is done and I know I can reference the level to locate the front, it is time to saw. Follow the line for a straight cut.

Notice where 3.75" gets you

Then touch it up with a file and use the Brownells 11deg cutter with 44 pilot. It is important to file it flat(ish) before starting, otherwise you will get chatter marks from the cutter. They are hell to get out....

And here is where I stand

Now to choose a front sight. Here are some options from the parts bin. Of course I could be boring and just use a regular Ruger .595 front. What do ya'll think I should use?

Next I'll tackle the ERH. Never shortened one, but I have a few ideas on how I want to do it. Plus I have another trick to try out....

 

[JWhitmore44]

Looking good, I'd almost be inclined to use a front side that I could change change. But I like the looks of that one in the middle. I think you may have to set those on the gun till you find the one that tickles your fancy. I'll be tuning in for the ejector modifications

 

[Tommy Kelly]

Well the hard part's over. The first pass of the hacksaw is the point of no return. It looks like the crown turned out nice. Well folks this isn't his first rodeo he has cut off several for himself and a few for me. They all turned out fine the only difference is this one is behind the erh so he will be adding a few more steps getting it fit back. I'm sure that most of you are like me and start to freak out as the process starts but the end result doesn't look bad. After the hacksaw is the worst part then things get better as it comes back together. I can't wait to see the finished gun I have a couple more for him to do back to 4 5/8" a 30 carbine and a 45 blackhawk.

 

[stevemb]

I love my SBH, love the longer grip. Like the looks of the square backed trigger guard. Am not fond of how it whacks me in recoil. Dropping muzzle weight...more of the same. It'll be a low volume piece no doubt. A Hunter grip or Bisley makes more sense, but I'm not the one holding the hacksaw here. Good luck, and enjoy. stevemb

 

[chris_]

Nice work. I have cut down a few guns and it is fun to do it yourself.

 

[tek4260]

I worked on the ERH last night. I used an extra from the parts box. I didn't want to use the steel one that came on the revolver as I will be placing it on one of my other Blackhawks.

I needed to remove .500", so I came up with a redneck fixture to act as a stop.

I filed away the housing, using the original stub that fits into the frame as a guide.

Once that was done, I cut the stub back to the original length of .125" and used some aluminum black on the housing.

Here is the shortened housing compared to factory

And on the revolver.

I still need to take a stone and smooth the edge where it goes into the recess. My 8x36 tap should be here Friday and I will D/T the barrel and shorten the spring and rod. Shortening the factory base pin to Sheriff's model length will return the original length to the ejection stroke.

And here are some of the sight pictures. I'll take better pictures once the ERH is fully mounted and I reassemble the revolver to give better ideas of the look of the sights on the finished revolver.

And this one is long enough to cover the entire barrel

 

[Kanook]

I like the second/longer sight better. It makes the barrel look shorter to me.

 

[chris_]

That's fine work

 

[ChiefMuzz]

Really sweet work. I actually like the looks of the second site as well. It gives the barrel a unique profile.
It's gonna look awesome.

 

[tek4260]

I might have more options for sights since the sight fairy gave me a gallon of sights...

 

[dlhredfoxx]

Awesome work! I like the first/shorter sight personally, but either one is awesome... gives it that custom look.

 

[chris_]

I need the sight fairy to come by my house. :shock: :shock:

 

[bigboredad]

looking good as usual nice job Tek

 

[Kanook]

That tang site might be a little tall (in the bag) :twisted:

 

[BRL]

Nice job so far!

I like that one! 8)

 

[tek4260]

I went ahead and cut off the base pin and ejector rod. I really hated to cut the plum one that came in the revolver, but my spares didn't fit the cylinder as well as this one.

I filed a bit off the back of the ring to remove the rod. It can be pulled with a fingernail or a knife blade.

And here is the amount of extraction I get with the shortened setup.

 

[Bountyhunter]

Very cool. I can't wait to see the finished product.

 

[JWhitmore44]

That looks about like the same amount of ejection I get with my Birdshead in 45 colt. My birdshead won't kick the shell out completely unless you use the ejector rod with "enthusiasm"

 

[chris_]

That looks about like the same amount of ejection I get with my Birdshead in 45 colt. My birdshead won't kick the shell out completely unless you use the ejector rod with "enthusiasm"

That has always worked for me on my short barreled guns. Just a little gusto snaps them right out.

Tek4260, why didn't you just get a Belt Mountain pin if you didn't want to cut that one? Also, Ruger sells the Sheriff length pins as well.

 

[tek4260]

That looks about like the same amount of ejection I get with my Birdshead in 45 colt. My birdshead won't kick the shell out completely unless you use the ejector rod with "enthusiasm"

That has always worked for me on my short barreled guns. Just a little gusto snaps them right out.

Tek4260, why didn't you just get a Belt Mountain pin if you didn't want to cut that one? Also, Ruger sells the Sheriff length pins as well.

I probably should have done either, but this is sort of about making a shorty from an existing revolver and modifying the original parts. I've got the ejector mounted and am about to go reassemble and take a few pics with different sights.

 

[tek4260]

Tap came in! Actually they messed up and ordered 3, but regular 2 flute taps, not bottom taps. So I guess it is good they ordered 3. Since the hole is shallow you have to shorten the tap before you can even use it. Then, you have to start tapping on the taper and gradually shorten the tap until you are tapping a full diameter thread completely to the bottom of the hole. So with 3, I was able to modify each tap and simply switch taps as I went.

Now to partially reassemble and make it look like a revolver again then mount some sights and take pics. Then once I decide, I'll mount the sight and draw file the rest of the billboard off the side of the barrel.

Oh yea, drilling the hole for the sight and the ejector rod housing is the part of the project I dread the most. Half way thru it though....