1966 Blackhawk 357 ?

Neck feather grips do command a little premium. But it's because the are "dated" to a specific era. And to a collector,, they need to be in very good condition,, OR,,,,,,,, if a person is needing to return a gun to an "as shipped" condition. I generally allow a $25 premium on very nice ones.
 
The drag mark isn't hurting anything, not ideal but you can't change what happened to the piece before it came into your life. I wonder if someone tried to antique the frame, or maybe it was just handled and played with way more than it was shot.

I wouldn't have any heartburn over the price, last show I went to there was an example of similar age and condition that the guy thought was an $800 gun ....yeah, right.
 
Ok, I got 2 New Model Blackhawks 357’s and several single sixes and bearcats. A lot of them have light drag marks.

Here’s my blued Blackhawk 357
That gun has the infamous classic drag line of the NM Rugers and most all other revolvers.

Left Click on photo and then click on it again to enlarge to see drag line clearly:​

IMG_4112.jpeg

Notice the bright spot in the line; that's obviously where the cylinder latch hits the cylinder when the hammer is cycled, followed by the heavy drag line. Ruger NMs have an overly heavier tension spring than OMs. And the timing for the release of the cyl latch is very premature.

The heavy line between the contact bright spot and the cylinder approach ramp and notch is twice as bad as the line before the bright spot. The heavy drag line is unavoidable w/o custom gunsmithing. The shorter line before the bright spot Is due to careless handling; closing the loading gate when loading, unloading or installing the cylinder without aligning the cylinder notch/approach ramp with the cylinder latch. This part of the line is avoidable.

Not important or cared about by most, but that's how it happens.
 
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