.357 3 screw Blackhawk—-Update 12/29

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Chinook3

Chinook3

Bearcat
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Michigan
I recently acquired a used old model .357. It's in great shape as far as condition, like new. The problem is the previous owner scratched some lettering into the grip handle on the backstrap. I dont like that and planned to get another and replace it. Is there a way to darken the alloy grip frame. I have used aluminum black before by Birchwood Caseyand I doubt this will correct it. Is there other products that work better? Should i just find a better grip frame or can this be fixed? This is an XR3-RED. Will only this frame fit?
Thanks for looking!
image.jpg
 
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that is a pretty easy fix if done right, we've done many of them over the years in the shop, polish out, remove the writing , can file, emery., bench polishing wheel ,whatever to remove and even out , and simply spray over the rear with Alumahyde from Brownells, or even use such as Krylon flat black paint to match /blend it , comes out...these days you can even ceracote for a more durable ,long lasting finish nice, and yes obviously just buy /get another frame and switch it out,,,just don't throw away that marked up one, it can be salvaged......:cool:;)
 
Chinook3 said:
Thanks for the reply!
Really paint it? Flakes? Is alumahyde any good?
Click to expand...

I have painted some and they look fine. I found that Krylon Fusion is the best, just clean it good before spraying.
You could also go with the old school polished look. I kinda like that better.
just keep it on the buffer wheel until it's chrome!!

SAM_2118.JPG

SAM_2120.JPG
 
As noted,, you can repair the grip frame,, or just polish it all over.

But if you do decide to replace it,, to be correct,, an OLD MODEL XR3-RED grip frame will be the correct one.
If it were mine,, I'd replace the grip frame,, and also work on buffing out the original one & doing it over. AlumaHyde has been used a fair amount to redo grip frames.
 
rugerguy said:
can file, emery., bench polishing wheel ,whatever to remove and even out , and simply spray over the rear with Alumahyde from Brownells, :cool:;)
Click to expand...

This is the answer. I followed the advice here of keeping my 1965 RSS original grip frame that had an SSN engraved in the bottom. Filed flat, sanded, and back-masked for a small amount of the Brownells paint. Can't tell if you didn't already know.

uydfshjg.jpg
 
rugerguy said:
that is a pretty easy fix if done right, we've done many of them over the years in the shop, polish out, remove the writing , can file, emery., bench polishing wheel ,whatever to remove and even out , and simply spray over the rear with Alumahyde from Brownells, or even use such as Krylon flat black paint to match /blend it , comes out...these days you can even ceracote for a more durable ,long lasting finish nice, and yes obviously just buy /get another frame and switch it out,,,just don't throw away that marked up one, it can be salvaged......:cool:;)
Click to expand...
@Chinook3, listen closely to what Dan (@rugerguy) is telling you. He knows his stuff with these old 3 screws. He helped me about a year and a half ago with one that I bought that had been "converted" by previous owner. With his help, it is now in original condition.

This is not to say that the other suggestions you are receiving are not very good and sound as well. Just can't say enough about Dan.
 
Chinook3 said:
I recently acquired a used old model .357. It's in great shape as far as condition, like new. The problem is the previous owner scratched some lettering into the grip handle on the backstrap. I dont like that and planned to get another and replace it. Is there a way to darken the alloy grip frame. I have used aluminum black before by Birchwood Caseyand I doubt this will correct it. Is there other products that work better? Should i just find a better grip frame or can this be fixed? This is an XR3-RED. Will only this frame fit?
Thanks for looking!
View attachment 61177
Click to expand...
If you have it ceracoated you may not have to do any prep. They sand blast the finish off, ask them if it will remove the bubba marks.
 
Once upon a time I decided to refinish a grip frame that really needed it. I did a little research and found that a highly-recommended product to use was -- I think -- Krylon rattle-can epoxy flat black paint. Was hard to find, but finally located a can at a reasonable price.

Stripped the grip frame and carefully went over it with 0000 steel wool until it was just beautifully uniform. Carefully cleaned it with WD-40 and finished up with alcohol. Carefully applied a few coats per the instructions on the can. Let it dry for several days. It looked beautiful. Reassembled it on the gun and was quite proud of myself.

First time I cleaned the gun after shooting, using Hoppes #9 solvent, the paint just wiped right off. Bummer. Cleaned it all off again and put the grip frame back on the gun as a "pinto" variation. :rolleyes:
 
If you remove a lot of material from the grip frame to get the scratches off, you may have to "re-fit" the grip panels.

J.
 
thanks for the kind words guys an d sorry 'Lt Choate, that it took so long to do it, you had to sit and wait,,,ha ha great visit by the way.........;)
and as to the 'refitting, you always stay away from the edges and work inward and you never have to "refit" ANY grips....patience and yes, neatness counts.....and stay away from hand held "Power tools".........:cool::rolleyes:

sadly Ale-8, the downfall of the use of ANY "paint" is it will clean/wipe right off with the right (wrong)??cleaners.....:(
 
Yeah, apparently so. It's why I went with the "epoxy" paint. I figured that had the best chance of surviving. Ah, well . . . 😞

Anything that can't survive Hoppes #9 has no place on a firearm.
 
...used to try and bake the part in the oven, some said it "set" the finish surface and bit better with paints such as used on heat applications such as car and motorcycle parts ?? did not do enough of them to really find out, went with the Brownells Alumahyde when it came out, and yes we even tried and warmed them up ...never was able to find anyone that could match the "black " (dark) finish of the anodizing on the Rugers frames, ever color of "dark" ( shades) except the original.......... :unsure: :(
 
Originally Ruger used anodizing with black dye on its aluminum alloy parts and grip frames. It's not very durable. Finally in about the mid 1990s they switched to a black powder coating which is baked on and much more durable. It also matches the steel bluing much better. You can likely find someone local to do that or send it off to have done. Just google to find them.

If you replace the grip frame it will need fitting to fit well like the original, and that will ruin its finish.
 
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Bought this gun and it came with a Rough grip frame,
53119080604_2f23d2f6e8_c.jpg


A little time spent, fitting, massage, file, sanding, etc.,,,
52370694712_a94575cdff_c.jpg


Sent it off to get Cerakote and it's better than ever. I think it will be better than anything Ruger has ever done.
Going on a OM 357 flattop that is in process of being converted to a 3.6" 41 Special.
52370694817_92d95141f4_c.jpg
 
Who is doing your conversion? Wanted to do that for a while.
G2 said:
Bought this gun and it came with a Rough grip frame,
53119080604_2f23d2f6e8_c.jpg


A little time spent, fitting, massage, file, sanding, etc.,,,
52370694712_a94575cdff_c.jpg


Sent it off to get Cerakote and it's better than ever. I think it will be better than anything Ruger has ever done.
Going on a OM 357 flattop that is in process of being converted to a 3.6" 41 Special.
52370694817_92d95141f4_c.jpg
Click to expand...
 
I went through the polish phase. I actually stripped and polished several 10/22 trigger housings, Blackhawk ERH's, and a few XR3-RED grip frames to sell elsewhere. Always made out well until I factored the 40 hours of work on some of the tougher jobs.

There is NO WAY the Brownells paint on the butt of my current OMRSS will ever flake, fade, or peel as it sits in its original box wrapped in its original wax paper.

You'd have to be pretty dad gum ham-fisted to take off so much of the back strap on the OP's example to need to re-fit the grips. it's a couple ten thou deep, not 0.085962" deep.

Take the most original and simplest route ... fix it. Send it to me and I will fix it with return postage provided. Worst case is you still have to get an exact copy replacement.

Let's see if my first OMRSS with a polished gripframe, ERH, cylinder pin button still has a pic in my files...

D1-F9-E19-E-97-FC-43-F6-8-E4-D-72-C84-DC50-AB5-2963-000002517-CAA6-C1-D-zps759268bd.jpg
 
Note...my version of "polish" is mirror finish like chrome. Most of the others look satin, which is a good look, but not what I would call polished.
 
Chinook3 said:
I recently acquired a used old model .357. It's in great shape as far as condition, like new. The problem is the previous owner scratched some lettering into the grip handle on the backstrap. I dont like that and planned to get another and replace it. Is there a way to darken the alloy grip frame. I have used aluminum black before by Birchwood Caseyand I doubt this will correct it. Is there other products that work better? Should i just find a better grip frame or can this be fixed? This is an XR3-RED. Will only this frame fit?
Thanks for looking!
View attachment 61177
Click to expand...
Numerich has 2, 1 finished and 1 alu. unfinished, if you want to go that route. Both are XR3 RED.
 
***Update
Spent a few hours taking my Blackhawk .357 4 5/8 pistol apart and back together. Took the grip handle out to the shop and hit it with some light buffing. I did not buff the entire grip. I did the blackstrap and grip bottom on the buffing. I then gave it a few coats of Krylon "Fusion" in Matte Black. Let it set over night and touched it up lightly.
I also did an extra EH and an old frame I sometimes pattern from.
It's a long way from anodizing but the color seems perfect. When I took my scrap piece and took it back to the buffer it held up better than I thought. I thinks its downfall will be some solvent that wipes it off.
Thanks again, I am very pleased with it.
Here are some pics:
 

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Looks good. It will be interesting to see how it holds up.

I have used VHT chassis and roll bar paint with good results myself. It’s an epoxy paint- it resists brake fluid and will even hold up to carb/ brake cleaner if you wipe it off immediately. Applies great, comes in gloss and satin.

https://www.vhtpaint.com/product/vht-roll-bar-chassis-paint/
My favorite process is the Cerakote Elite, but that has gotten to be about $100 per application around here.

I have heard good things about the Eastwood powder coating system too. They have a starter kit for under $200. Add a toaster oven that will get to 450 degrees and you’re set.
 
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