Just ordered a kit for the SP101. Question is does it come with installation instructions. I know IBOK has detailed instructions but this is the only thing I plan on doing to the SP101 so I don't want to order the book. The video on you tube is not the greatest, is there any other videos out there to walk me through it. Seems easy enough but sometimes I have trouble tying my shoes under stress.
Wolff Spring kit for SP101 instructions?
- Thread starter gilfo
- Start date
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Jimbo357mag
Hawkeye
The spring kit will come with some instructions I believe. Changing the springs is easy. Follow the instructions in your instruction manual to disassemble the major assemblies, or check the Ruger website under videos 'Tech Tips'. Be careful with the trigger assembly to not let it come apart. Use the next weaker springs and check for perfect primer ignition. You don't want a gun that mis-fires. Changing to the next weaker springs helped my trigger pull a lot. :shock: 
http://ruger.com/resources/videos.html
...Jimbo
http://ruger.com/resources/videos.html
...Jimbo
NO Instructions included.
IMO ... everything in the IBOK needs to be performed to allow for any type of spring mod. If completed correctly the SP-101 will work just fine down to the 9# spring.
I prefer the 10# and leaving the trigger spring as is,,, IMO.
IMO ... everything in the IBOK needs to be performed to allow for any type of spring mod. If completed correctly the SP-101 will work just fine down to the 9# spring.
I prefer the 10# and leaving the trigger spring as is,,, IMO.
recumbent
Buckeye
the kit does NOT come with instructions
I_Like_Pie
Blackhawk
It is easy to change the hammer spring and that one will result in the most improvement. Just put the round end in a padded vice and use a fork to release tension on the existing spring.
It comes with 3 hammer springs I think. The lightest one didn't strike my CCI primers hard enough to fire several times. I went to the middle one and had no problems since...maybe 2,000 since with no misfires.
If you do the trigger spring make sure you take apart the trigger group in a gallon ziplock bag unless you know what you are doing. There is a pawl/hand spring that tends to launch unless you are ready for it.
It comes with 3 hammer springs I think. The lightest one didn't strike my CCI primers hard enough to fire several times. I went to the middle one and had no problems since...maybe 2,000 since with no misfires.
If you do the trigger spring make sure you take apart the trigger group in a gallon ziplock bag unless you know what you are doing. There is a pawl/hand spring that tends to launch unless you are ready for it.
hapjack12
Bearcat
I just saw a Iowegan reply where he said nothing less than 12 lb spring. All my reading before said 11 lbs so I bought that and today it came in and now today I read about the 12 lb spring. Go figure.
Mr. Sasquatch
Bearcat
If your gun is new and you do not want to do a lot of mods suggested by Iowegan, I'd suggest that you leave the original springs in for a while when you do a lot of dry firing. This way all the mating surfaces will have a chance to smooth themselves out just by rubbing agaisnt each other under higher spring pressure (thus doing it faster). After a couple of thousands of dry-fire clicks you should notice that the trigger feels smoother. (That, or you trigger finger got stronger. :lol: )
At that time you may start experimenting with aftermarket springs. If you change the main spring on a gun that has not been broken in yet, you risk getting light strikes.
While you are replacing the main spring, and 90% of instructions you need are in the manual, you may as well check if the hammer rubs agains the frame and smooth the inside of the frame where it leaves scratch marks on the hammer.
At that time you may start experimenting with aftermarket springs. If you change the main spring on a gun that has not been broken in yet, you risk getting light strikes.
While you are replacing the main spring, and 90% of instructions you need are in the manual, you may as well check if the hammer rubs agains the frame and smooth the inside of the frame where it leaves scratch marks on the hammer.
hapjack12
Bearcat
I will follow your good advice.
Pal Val
Buckeye
If you do change the mainspring, polish the strut all around amd the areas it contacts. I've never found one that had been completely finished at the factory, and it's often part of the reason why the gun needs an extra strong mainspring. Less friction = less need for a strong spring.
