Steel Targets

[Pat-inCO]

I'm sure at least some of this has been discussed previously, but I
came across a steel silhouette target, 9x15 inch, AR500 (at least
that's what they say), unpainted for $45 delivered. I am most impressed
by the fact it is about the size you would want to hit, should you be
unfortunate enough to need to defend yourself. Everything else I have
seen is either a lot larger or is quite a bit smaller.

It is not painted, so I'm going to make the journey into looking up what
paint would be good, but my guess is that anything that will stick and
keeps water off of it will be fine. By the time you have multiple impacts
on the face, that portion will not care.

I've also been looking at how to hang/mount the target for use. I've seen
several pre-built options that run as much as the target itself, yet still
need more to be usable, or some you can put together out of 2x4s and
a bit of chain. I'm leaning heavily toward the latter, because of the
cost and you can make it very easy to disassemble, thus transport
it far more readily (don't need a truck to haul it). 8)

I'm also thinking about angling it so the top is a tad closer to the shooter
than the bottom of the target is. The easiest that I have seen (easy and
inexpensive seem closely related) is to use some "eye bolts" (for lack
of a better name) so you can offset the chain from the center line of
the target. An article I read says about fifteen degrees works very well.

Any thoughts, comments and especially pictures would be appreciated.

 

[daveg.inkc]

I make my steel targets and silhouettes. I use white paint. I have cylinders hanging with chains. Another I like is rocks that dust when smacked

 

[rob-c]

I use cheap $1 white paint, I have them both ways hanging from chains and also mounted to one bolt angled down with a coil spring between plate and 2by4 these are 12 inch round plates with a center hole drilled in them, I like the single bolt/coil spring better it absorbs the recoil but doesn't swing so you can double tap it easy..

 

[AJGUNNER]

I use cheap $1 white paint, I have them both ways hanging from chains and also mounted to one bolt angled down with a coil spring between plate and 2by4 these are 12 inch round plates with a center hole drilled in them, I like the single bolt/coil spring better it absorbs the recoil but doesn't swing so you can double tap it easy..

Can you share some pictures???

 

[Jimbo357mag]

I have thought about this for a while. Drill 2 holes and pass round head bolt through the plates and tighten down with nuts. Then attach a chain to the back of the plate using the remaining length of the bolts with large washers and more nuts and hang the target by the chain.

...and here is a free standing idea that uses pipe fittings. Drive the pipe in the ground and hang the steel plate.

 

[mikewriter]

Shephard's hooks from Lowe's, Home Deport, or Hobby Lobby hold mine just fine. I can see the preference for angling the plates to try to influence where a bullet might bounce off to, but using heavy hard cast from .44, .45, and .480 and shooting at 25 to 50 yards I have SO FAR not seen much problem.

I spray paint mine white, then use a 2" PVC pipe collar to center a red or orange cirlce as a primary aiming point.

Mike

 

[contender]

I have a lot of steel targets on my range. Different types & shapes.

With the mentioned plate, it SHOULD come with 2 holes already drilled in it. If not,,, prepare for hard steel if you need to drill it yourself. It's even better if it has square holes for carriage bolts.
Next, you can make a 2x4 frame in any shape & size you desire. Hang the plate from that, using chain & screw type chain links. (Bigger is better.) I always hang mine where the chain angles away from the corners instead of straight up & down,,, as it doesn't twist much when hit on the edges. I build metal frames instead of wood, but mine do not have to move around much.
Now, if you wish to make a hanger with an angle to it & are handy with a welder,,, go buy a piece of rectangle tubing that will fit over a 2x4. A 6" long piece is plenty. Cut & weld an angle plate to each side of the tubing at your desired angle, with each side of the angle plate protruding out far enough to accept a second piece of metal, usually a 2" angle iron, (heavier grade,) with holes drilled in it to mount the AR500 target plate. Build a 2x4 wood base to slide over the tubing to your preferred dimensions. Assemble & drill a hole through the tubing & 2x4 all at one time for a bolt to hold the hanger.

Just remember, if you put it downrange, it will get hit with a bullet. Build accordingly.

 

[Pat-inCO]

Just remember, if you put it downrange,
it will get hit with a bullet.
Build accordingly.

OH MY HEAVENS! :shock:

Thanks!

 

[contender]

Ok Pat,,, I was mainly referring to any portion of the target stand or chains. I currently need to replace one of my snap links in a chain,,, right after I installed it.

On idea as well.
Go to the local scrap yard. Sometimes you can find odd metal stuff that with a little cutting and or welding can be converted to a target stand. I'm always a scrounger in that area. A cutting torch & a welder can be your friends,,, especially if most of it is already done.

 

[CLAYPOOL]

No remarks yet of a "Closes (sp) distance to shoot from"..?

 

[armallard]

Claypool Do you have any ties to Northeast Arkansas?

 

[Lucky Joe]

Disk blades from field rippers make good metal targets. Make friends with a farmer, probably just give you some.