SP101 - diagnose this problem?

[gjj]

I have a brand new SP101. I cleaned it prior to my first outing. I have been shooting a long time. I know to clean under the extractor star.

The trigger binds at various points in the middle of the DA trigger pull. It does this with live rounds and when empty during dry fire. When it binds, it the trigger will not move forward. I have to reset the trigger and try again.

Any ideas why?

1. There is nothing under the extractor.
2. It does it with 4 different types of ammo.
3. It does it dry fire with an empty cylinder.
4. I am not short stroking the trigger. It binds on it's own with a steady backwards movement.

 

[Snake45]

Check your barrel/cylinder gap. I had something very similar happen in a Colt King Cobra and that was the problem. It was too tight and I had to open it up to .004 or so.

 

[gjj]

The gap seems fine. Right now, the gun is locked up solid. I have reasonable cylinder shake and I can swing the cylinder out easily. But, I can not pull the trigger and it will not reset.

 

[Snake45]

Sounds like you have something broken inside, or perhaps some debris of some sort in there. Pull it apart.

 

[bub]

Sounds like you have a problem that used to be real common in Ruger guns- burrs/grit in the action that is preventing the action from functioning properly. It used to be so bad that jokes were made about Ruger employees getting rid of the floor sweepings by putting them in the gun, thus ridding themselves of the necessity of having trash removal.

Have you field stripped the gun? If you can get the trigger reset, follow the manual and strip the gun, then flush out the trigger group, frame and associated parts REAL WELL with Gun Scrubber or something similar. Lube and reassemble to see if the problem is taken care of.

If it still doesn't work, you have one of two options. Option one, and probably the best for a brand-new gun, is to call Ruger and arrange to ship it back for service. Option two, if you are familiar with detail-stripping and working on guns, is to go to www.rugerforum.net and join. After 10 posts in the forums, a new sub-forum will open up called "The Library". In "The Library" is a .pdf document created by forum member Iowegan, called the IBOK (Iowegan's Book Of Knowledge) about the SP101 (and there are IBOKs for lots of other Ruger guns, too). Iowegan is a retired gunsmith that used to work on tons of Rugers. The IBOK details how to detail strip and smooth out the SP on your own, if you so choose. Be warned, if you are not familiar with the inner workings of guns, there are quite a few springs that can jump out and launch themselves into orbit if you aren't careful. It's not too bad, just that care is called for.

Good luck with your SP. Just remember, every manufacturer can pump out a lemon from time to time. The SP is, IMHO, the best of the best where snubbies are concerned and is worth the effort to get it fixed.

Bub

 

[gjj]

I take back what I said about the cylinder gap. I think Snake is right. There is cylinder shake. But, there is not a gap. I can even see the scratches where the barrel is hitting the cylinder. Now that the gun is cool, I can't get it to stick during dryfire. At the range, when it was hot, it would stick with and without ammo.

I don't want to screw up the gun. It doesn't sound like something I should try to fix. Right?

Should I send it back?

 

[deac45]

Yes. Send it back.

deac45

 

[Snake45]

I take back what I said about the cylinder gap. I think Snake is right. There is cylinder shake. But, there is not a gap. I can even see the scratches where the barrel is hitting the cylinder. Now that the gun is cool, I can't get it to stick during dryfire. At the range, when it was hot, it would stick with and without ammo.

I don't want to screw up the gun. It doesn't sound like something I should try to fix. Right?

Should I send it back?

Got some feeler gauges? See what's the biggest one you can put between the barrel and cylinder. In my Colt, it would only take a .002.

I hit the back of the barrel with a GOOD file until it would take a .004, and it never game me another problem (in that area. It now has another problem, but not related to binding).

I'm pretty good with a file, and took my time, one stroke at a time, and very carefully. If you doubt your ability, send it back.

 

[bub]

gjj, if the front of the cylinder has scratches, call Ruger and send it back. The barrel's forcing cone, the section that sticks through the frame and is evidently hitting the front of the cylinder, has to be pretty close to perfectly square with the front of the cylinder. If it is hitting, Ruger will have to mill off part of the forcing cone. It can be done with a file, but I sure wouldn't try it myself.

Bub