Single Six throwing bullets all over

Damoniker7

Bearcat
Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
24
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MN USA
Hello.

1) I have a used early 80's single six I bought recently. The first time I fired it, it shot well, accurately. Since the previous owner apparently shot lots of shorts in it, the chambers were dirty and standard .22 LR shell were difficult to load fully. So I cleaned it and bought a 17# Wolf hammer spring to install.

Took it to the range yesterday and off a rest, could not keep the holes anywhere near the bullseye. I'm talking groups that were 8+ " at 50 ft. I was amazed and no matter what ammo I used, the groups were awful.

Today I cleaned it again with a brass brush and used the brush and a drill to get all the .22 short powder residue I might have missed the first time. Haven't had time to reshoot since.

So what could be the problem? Thanks.

2) Is the transfer bar supposed to be loose front to back? I notice that it moves up and down but if I tilt the gun up, the transfer bar moves away from the frame slightly. Is a spring broken? Or is this normal?

The gun never fails to fire or cycle correctly.

Thanks for the help. I have had Ruger guns for years and have always been happy with them before.
 
The transfer bar movement is normal.

As to why it's groups are so large at 50', I'm not sure. Have you shot it since doing the super-cleaning on the cylinder?
 
Steve, no I have not yet. I know the lighter hammer spring slows lock time but not to this degree of affecting accuracy. Out of the used gun shop accuracy was about 2" at 50'.
 
Also, thinking it was my older eyes being bad, I shot a .22 pistol to check. I shot that very well so it's frustrating.
 
I would try it at 21' first, then slowly move back. Your cylinder cleaning may have done the trick.
 
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D Schmidt,

The lighter hammer spring not only increases lock time, it decreases firing pin impact force on the case rims significantly.

If after the thorough cleaning the accuracy is still crappy, I'd put the factory spring back in and try it.

Did you buy the multi weight pack from Wolff or just the single spring? They also make a 19 and 21 pound spring. I have all three and am going to try them in my Single-Six. Not sure what will happen, but I think 17 pounds is too light.

Joe
 
Have you cleaned the barrel with some good lead solvent? If the previous owner shot a lot of shorts in it, it might be badly leaded, which would cause accuracy problems. You might have to use something like a Lewis Lead Remover to get it all out.

EarlFH
 
Thanks. I just bought the 17# alone. Trigger pull is OK.

I cleaned the barrel and cylinders with Hoppe's #9 Powder solvent. The rifling looks OK to my eye but the forcing cone may be leaded up. I can't tell.

If I was to guess, I'd blame it on the lighter hammer spring. Seems unusual for a cleaner gun to shoot worse than when it was dirtier.

No, it's a reg. cylinder as the mag. one was missing from the gun when I bought it. The serial numbers are correct as well.

Is this an example of a new model super single six shooting badly with the .22 cylinder while it may shoot better with the mag. one? Guess I'll never know that answer. Ruger wants $150 to fit one.

I wonder if the previous, old farmer fired shot shells in the gun. Of course, that won't explain the good shooting one day and lousy later.

I can't get to the range until the weekend as the HRTC Law Enforcement Training is being held all week.

I grew up shooting an early model single six (three screw) which we bought in about 1957 or so. Only one cylinder and it shot better than I could see even then. We carried it on the tractor to shoot 13 lined ground squirrels . . . otherwise known as gophers statewide.
 
Consistent hammer impact is vital to .22 rimfire accuracy. My suggestion -- get rid of the light spring and re-install the factory spring. Lightening the spring on a .22 will cause exactly what you are seeing through inconsistent ignition.
 
D Schmidt":1blr4fnd said:
I grew up shooting an early model single six (three screw) which we bought in about 1957 or so. Only one cylinder and it shot better than I could see even then. We carried it on the tractor to shoot 13 lined ground squirrels . . . otherwise known as gophers statewide.

The "pre convertible" guns have a slightly smaller bore, for whatever that's worth.

My stainless 6-1/2" Single-Six gave me fits with accuracy. My local gun shop guru said "it's dirty".

The ol' Chore Boy Copper Pot Scrubber used as a bore brush trick took care of that problem. IMHO, the dirty forcing cone was the root of the evil in my case and probably in yours' as well.

flatgate
 
I will shoot the gun asap after triple cleaning and replacing the standard hammer spring. I'll post the results.

Thanks all for your suggestions. :)
 
I'd guess you are pulling or flinching, and that is causing your scattergun effect. If it still does the same poor shooting after all thecleaning and the original spring replacement, have another person try it that you know is a decent marksman.
 
I don't know of any value to putting in a lighter hammer spring. You certainly don't need to do that to lighten the trigger. You should be able to take the trigger well below 2 lbs with a factory hammer spring, by manipulating the trigger spring alone.

As for acccuracy, a thorough cleaning and some different ammo types may help. Also make sure the muzzle crown is in good shape.
 
What's interesting here is that the original post states:

The first time I fired it, it shot well, accurately.

So, what changed since then? Hmm, a hammer spring and some cleaning....

Did the cleaning damage the crown? We've already discussed the merits of whimpy mainsprings......

flatgate
 
A lot of people agree that you changed the wrong spring. Put back the factory mainspring and get a lighter trigger spring. For a few bucks, you can get a Wolff set (Try Brownell's) and get both new.

Also, I'm not partial to chucking brass brushes in drills and attacking a gun with them. Abusive cleaning is worse than no cleaning at all.
 
Well, it rained most of the weekend and I didn't make it to the range since I cleaned the 6.5" barreled Single Six and reinstalled the original hammer spring. However, I did get a chance to fire it inside with some of my new Aguila Super Colibri pest control rounds. About 1" groups at 7 yds.

I realize that this is not an true indication of what it's going to do with full LR rounds at 50'. But it did help my confidence a bit.

By the way, I certainly am impressed with the low power Aguila rounds. They make far more noise hitting the bullet trap than they do in the gun. I fired them in an old Marlin 39A too, and got 1/2" groups at 25'. More than adequate for pest control.

BUT my shooting experience today raises more important concern than the accuracy of the Ruger: I am suddenly having problems acquiring a clear sight picture . . . especially of the front sight. Do any of you use glasses to help with the sighting on revolvers or pistols? The front blade is not clear and the back is not much better. It is not a problem with rifles (yet) as the front sight is farther away and I usually have scopes on my rifles, too.

Any help with the far-sighted/near-sighted issue would be appreciated. (Yeah, I turned 63 a few days back.)

Thanks in advance.
 
D Schmidt":201je36i said:
BUT my shooting experience today raises more important concern than the accuracy of the Ruger: I am suddenly having problems acquiring a clear sight picture . . . especially of the front sight. Do any of you use glasses to help with the sighting on revolvers or pistols? The front blade is not clear and the back is not much better. It is not a problem with rifles (yet) as the front sight is farther away and I usually have scopes on my rifles, too.

Any help with the far-sighted/near-sighted issue would be appreciated. (Yeah, I turned 63 a few days back.)

Thanks in advance.
I've noticed the same thing indoors. What's happening is that due to the lower light (compared to outdoors), your iris is more open, softening your focus. Outdoors, your iris "stops down" like going to a higher f-stop on a camera, and the smaller your iris, the sharper your focus will be.

Or, you might just be gettin' older. If it turns out to be an "everywhere" problem, you can have your optometrist order lenses that will focus at the distance of your front sight. I've found that many eye doctors are quite willing to accommodate this problem; it's not uncommon.
 
If all you have is a little difficulty focusing on the front post at age 63, I tip my hat to you, my friend! You are doing better than most people I know of our generation.

Here's a solution from my optometrist. He measured the distance between the front sight of a 71/2 revolver and my right eye when poised to shoot (32"). He then ran a sight test for that distance. I have a set of glasses made to that prescription. They are also good at work because I keep the computer screen about that far on my desk. BTW, he had to rig an extra long rod on the test card frame. The standard can only go 18".

BTW, they don't teach that stuff in medical school. He is an excellent pistol shot.
 
Finally got to the range this morning. Shot the SS with standard velocity Remington target ammo at 35'. The first shot was a bit high but still in the top of a 2" bullseye. Two shots went into the center as almost one hole. Another cut the 1" ring at 5 o'clock. Last two were touching at 8 o'clock. Last four shots measured app. 7/8" center to center. (I shot off the hood of my truck.)

I THINK that the gun didn't like the 17# hammer spring as the above group was fired after I had replaced it with the original. But part of it could be that I was just "seeing" better today.

I then shot off sandbags at 3" bullseye at 75'. Fired 24 rounds at a faster rate. Of those, 17 grouped at 3" with the rest outside. An excellent shooter would have done much better than I could.

All in all, I am satisfied with the gun now. Rabbit and squirrel sized critters would be in trouble up to 50' if I do my part.

Thanks to all who gave suggestions. I learned something new again.
 
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