Simple Green for Gun Cleaning

[Zeego]

Anybody out there use Simple Green for cleaning their guns? Its much cheaper than all the rest of the stuff out there. Might have to pick some up. Survival on the cheap.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SIMPLE-GREEN-Cleaner-Degreaser-6WB63

 

[woodsy]

I have tried the stuff for regular household cleaning; it won't tackle anything tough to remove. On the other hand, Krud Kutter works on almost anything around the house, including siding, floors, mildew, machine surfaces. Haven't tried it on guns because there's already so much good stuff for those, and which is not water-based or compatible.

 

[COR]

If you have a real nasty gun that has been stored improperly covered in oil (as one example)...Drop it in full strength and let it sit overnight in a flat dish or pan. Use hottest water available and rinse off. Lightly oil and you are good to go. I like the stuff and it isn't dangerous to you like brake cleaner and other harsh cleaners/degreasers can be. To me, the "green" advantage is the real selling point here. I only need it in the worst situations anyway as I will never be accused of having guns that are too clean.

 

[rugerguy]

in warm? (hot) water, for cleaning black powder guns, thats about it!!!! :roll:

anything mixed with H2O and you're asking for problems, and then one MUST use WD-40 !!! 8) :roll:

 

[Jimbo357mag]

Hmmmmmmmmm gun cleaning on the cheap? I'm going to have to think about that one for a while.

 

[Cracker-American]

When I finally saved up enough to buy a custom Southern Mountain Rifle the maker advised me to use Simple Green to clean it. I use my own home brew concoction but I always remembered what he said. This was fifteen or so years ago.

 

[Olsherm]

"Mean Green"sold at the Dollar stores here will clean just about anything.Only $5.00 a gallon.It will melt the crud off your vehicles tires,up under the fenders ect.So it should be good to clean guns with as long as you wipe it out afterwards and then use some good ole WD 40.HA HA I bet that gets some responses.

 

[DGW1949]

Hmmmmmmmmm gun cleaning on the cheap? I'm going to have to think about that one for a while.

I did think about it Jimbo.
About all that I could come up with is that there has to be problem before a solution is needed. Hoppes #9 don't cost all that much. And if the day comes that I can't afford a bottle, I wouldn't be able to afford ammo anyway.

That, and like the man said...if ya start with a water-based cleaner, then ya gotta do it again with something that aint. That seems like spending double-money to me.

Just sayin'.

DGW

 

[SkyRock]

Speaking from my experience, I wouldn't recommend it.

I used to use a 50% Simple Green solution sprayed with a hand-held house plant sprayer on my Glocks. I'd tear them down to the last pin, spray the parts in a large bowl, let them sit 10-15 minutes, rinse them in hot water (as hot as I could stand), and put them under a fan (I don't have compressed air). Except for the bore, it worked wonders. I'd then clean the bore, lubricate where appropriate, and pat myself on the back for being "up to date." :roll:

I mentioned this procedure to the Glock Armorer at a Glock Match. He smiled, and said, "Don't do that, and here's why." He then broke the pistol down, and pulled the firing pin safety and spring out of the slide, and pointed to the RUST! :x

I don't do that anymore.

 

[Precision32]

When all UGI ammo was corrosive, GIs took their rifles into the shower to WASH the primer salts from the bore. Simple Green is one recommended cleaner from my schooling.

 

[langenc]

I recall a summer camp at muddy Ft Knox. We got back in w/ 2" clay on everything.

Stacked arms in the side yard-M1 Rifles. 3 guys or so were sent to the showers and guns passed in. All were showered and then cleaned in the conventional manner. Were they rusty week or two later--NO. All recieved a light dose of oil.

For my own guns I use water based Gunzilla inside and RIG on the outside for fingerprint prevention. Have not had any in 5 yrs since started w/ RIG.

 

[Sixer]

I use it to soak my .45-90 cases. When shooting my shiloh I deprime the cases then they go into a solution of water and simply green. Cleans them up real nice. I usually use a solution of water and Ballistol to clean the gun though.

 

[Iron Mike Golf]

You might want to keep it away from aluminum alloy frames.

 

[Carry_Up]

Look at any AGI armorer video and you will get an earful about SG and what a great cleaner it makes. Save us the folklore - AGI's got it covered from start to finish. Yes, it cuts oily crud, dirt, clay, and fouling and will not give you cancer.

The question to ask here is...how dirty are we talking about? Do I really need to detail strip my firearm and remove all traces of oil from the pores of the metal? You DO need to detail strip because it is water based and can't just be squirted into a field stripped assembly. And yes, it will remove the oil from the pores of the metal. The parts have to be dried in the oven or with compressed air and oiled immediately to prevent rust from starting up (which steel will do right away).

I find that I require this level of cleaning almost never. A gun that was never cleaned, left sitting for years, etc. would be the exception. Aside from the bore, a good wipe down with CLP will do the job 99% of the time. No detail stripping, no worrying about rusting parts.

-cu

 

[sfbiker]

Careful, gents. Been told that Simple Green is corrosive. Don't let it sit on your guns too long!

 

[ranch23]

I put it in my parts washer once, noticed it evaporates quite quickly. Then I went Elk hunting, turned the heat down, had a really cold spell and when I got back I had a simple ice cube.

 

[Noah Zark]

You might want to keep it away from aluminum alloy frames.

Careful, gents. Been told that Simple Green is corrosive. Don't let it sit on your guns too long!

Both IMG and sfbiker are correct. Simple Green is an alkaline (high pH) cleaner with surfactants and wetting agents. Alkaline cleaners are hydroxide-based and WILL corrode aluminum, zinc, magnesium, and their alloys. If sufficiently high in pH, alkaline cleaners will actually DISSOLVE aluminum and other light metals and their alloys.

Aluminum is typically cleaned with acid-based cleaners. Commercial cleaner products for aluminum automotive wheels are acidic. That said, I do NOT recommend their use for aluminum alloyed firearm components. Firearms best respond to solvent cleaning with the exception of black power weapons, or firearms in which corrosive ammunition has been fired, and then hot soapy water (e.g., Dawn in hot water) is the way to go.

Plenty of members may chime in and say, "I've used Simple Green for years and it never bothered any of my guns." That is a function of exposure dwell time, cleaner product dilution, and the protection afforded some aluminum parts by anodizing, which is resistant to alkaline cleaning agents. In other words, YMMV. The safe bet is to NOT use alkaline cleaners on expensive objects made from aluminum and its alloys.

When I read threads like this I am always reminded of a "tight" local chap who considered the storeroom at work an extension of his garage. He advocated the use of a red high-temp oven grease to lubricate and protect his firearms. He had a S&W 65LS, to the gripstraps of which he applied this grease. A few years later, he removed the grips and discovered significant pitting -- the grease had additives that actually promoted pit corrosion in unpassivated martensitic stainless steel:

Once I explained the corrosion mechanism of the additive's effect on the stainless, and that stainless steel is NOT rustproof, he was so sick with the thought that he himself was responsible for the unintended and undesired consequences of his action in using a product for something other than its intended use, that he quickly sold the 65LS (to me) and found another.

Nasty things, unintended consequences are . . . people pay big $$$$ for firearms but end up stepping over dollars to save dimes.

Noah

 

[Jimbo357mag]

When I read threads like this I am always reminded of a "tight" local chap who considered the storeroom at work an extension of his garage. He advocated the use of a red high-temp oven grease...

Great story.

 

[Sam Summey]

If it has phosphoric acid as a component it will remove the bluing.
I use a Sodium hydroxide based engine degreaser from Auto Zone in my ultra sonic cleaner at a 1:16 - 1:8 ratio. if 1:16 works use no more.

 

[Sam Summey]

Noah is right on the aluminum issues of sodium hydroxide.
Surprised that the use of Simple Green on Aircraft though.