Ruger MK IV 22/45 Smithing my Field Gun

[Sharps40]

Pretty much the never ending quest not to buy aftermarket parts...

Lots of touring the innerweb and it seems no body actually took 10 minutes to figure out how to "gunsmith" the oft offensive "magazine-out-action-locked" component illustrated in the upper left corner. Mostly folks are searching for info on what size washers to buy and drill out and thin up or they're spending $20 + Shipping for an aftermarket part to delete the magazine disconnect. I'm investing 10 minutes in looking over the part and making 2 simple modifications.

Cause $20 + shipping still buys a nice batch of ammo.

 

[Sharps40]

I simply cut off the dog tail and polished the edges. (Left side of photo.)

Then i flattened the underside of the mag disconnect, (Right side of photo ), shown here almost done, just having a smoke before I finish flattening it out and polishing the new underside surface on the stone.

 

[Sharps40]

About 1000 rounds down range later.... Perfect function and I'm quite pleased. Mag out single shot works great.

Moving back one step with each successful ring of the steel, I find the trigger allows me to be consistent on a vertical 3x8 steel rectangle to about 30 yards. After that, the long take up interferes with staging the pull and most misses are off the left side of the swinger.

So.....I'll reduce the take up, free. (Cheapest trigger set I found was $114 plus shipping. It gives a 2.5 lb pull but that doesn't interest me for a field gun. Under 5 will be the berries.)

 

[Sharps40]

First step is disassembly and removal of the Factory Aluminum trigger. Jigged up on the drill press, a 1/16" hole is drilled about .250" deep just below the trigger pin and no worries, the new spacer pin will bear on the steel frame mounting block rather than any portion of the plastic frame.

Afterwards, a suitable length of the drill bit is cut off, extra long, to begin fitting.

 

[Sharps40]

The section of drill rod is inserted in the newly drilled hole and everything reassembled. Disassembly and reassembly is repeated with swipes of a medium stone across the face of the pin until such time as the weapon will reliably reset the trigger when "FULLY" assembled. (Note, on this particular model, the hammer would reset without the action in place and fail to reset once the upper was installed, as such, my initial stopping point of .040" protrusion was too long for reliability.) I wound up with .036" protrusion from the face of the trigger allowing reliable reset of the trigger with the upper installed. Upon achieving functional reliability, the pin was bonded in place with 609 sauce and reassembled/function checked again.....

 

[Sharps40]

Looking at the assembly through the trigger guard, the new pin is just visible below the mold parting line. (The factory disconnector, sear and hammer were all polished bright and lightly greased at contact points yielding a reliable 4 lb 2 oz trigger pull.)

There is about a 90%+ reduction in take up now. Only the slightest movement is felt now (where before there was a ton of mushy take up and no clear break point) and the stop point of the take up is positive enough to allow staging the break over. Things should go better on the range and hopefully I can commence hitting that steel swinger from 30 yards on back to 50 yards now.

 

[Sharps40]

For this field carry gun, the sub 5 lb trigger pull is desirable and quite usable. Getting the take up down to a minimum makes for a much better feel and I have no need to worry about over travel as it's not a competition gun.

I am more pleased than I was previously, and was very pleased then anyway. Besides, it didn't cost any money, just some basic gunsmithing. While I'm sure its not as nice as a "purchased" trigger job, it is quite a bit better than what the factory provided. For me the juice is worth the squeeze.

 

[Sharps40]

It almost fits my favorite home made (and only one I have) 1911 Officers ACP holster.

 

[Sharps40]

Jigged up and taping a 6x48, number 31 hole to move the factory sight back.

Used a tap and #29 bushing in the factory front sight hole to level the drilling jig.

 

[Sharps40]

Looking fine cut back by hand at 4" of barrel and a double crown. Flat face almost to the edge and then deeper at 11 degrees with a smaller cutter. The outer edge rounded over to ease the sharp edge. A touch of perma blue darkens up the muzzle.

 

[Sharps40]

And now it fits my ambidextrous holster. As heavy as this gun is I 'spect it'll carry just like an Officers ACP, solid.

(PS...full size 1911 grips can be fitted, perhaps a nice slab of afzelia xylay in the near future. )

 

[Sharps40]

More shooting with a variety of ammo and the reliability is perfect. Much easier to shoot well. Almost squirrel season!!!

Probably would have been 80 bucks or so to shorten the barrel and maybe another 50 to relocate the front sight, so, about enough saved to buy another!

 

[Sharps40]

Magazine conversion from 10 to 11 rounds was simple. Shorten bottom guide spud and clip 3 coils. Function is perfect loaded 11 mag + 1 pipe. No money spent for aftermarket springs and followers.

 

[Johnnu2]

VERY EXCELLENT REPORT and PICS.....

Being lazy, I took the easy way out and installed a Volquartsen trigger that adjusts from light, to safe for field use; also deletes the mag. "safety" mechanism.... Took me all day because I'm a clutz and a little blind... $120 about 3-4 yrs ago. My gun is the LITE model.

Again, great report...THANKS

J.

 

[xtratoy]

I don't even have a MK4 but enjoyed the post! Excellent photos detailing the process. I have MKII's but may get a MK4 someday.

 

[Sharps40]

Best part of the mk IV 22/45 is the takedown button. Worst part is the mile long trigger.

 

[Mobuck]

Sounds like a good job on your pistol.
Unfortunately, I lost interest when there was no mention of an angle grinder or DREMEL.
I'm joking of course. Good job and apparently time well spent.

 

[jerryp5878]

Excellent report on your process.

One small point in favor of the aftermarket route, which I have used, is that in theory the gun can be returned to original by me. Though that's likely to never happen.

Enjoy the result of your work!

Jerry

 

[Sharps40]

Yes. Especially if you ever contemplate factory repair. It's a sure bet it'll come back without the aftermarket parts.

 

[dobegrant.45]

I like your process,making the gun work as you need it.