black1970
Blackhawk
I wouldn't worry about the wood. After a hundred or so years of use the wood will fit nicely.
Rossi Lever Actions
- Thread starter sdoyl123
- Start date
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Took the gun apart today and wish I left it stock. Put two springs in it and am having a bear of a time reassembling it. I'll leave it for tomorrow when I can think about it again and finish the assembly. That gun is the most difficult to reassembly of any gun I have ever had.
Hey, just do what Ethang does and pour another bourbon. You can then tackle anything and the left over parts can be sold on Ebay LOL
I had my LGS order a SS Rossi 16" .357 today. I hadn't even considered a SS lever action until he handed one to me in 45 Colt. I was surprised how good it looked. It was very well finished.
larry8, you are now my spring kit guinea pig. Good luck!
I had my LGS order a SS Rossi 16" .357 today. I hadn't even considered a SS lever action until he handed one to me in 45 Colt. I was surprised how good it looked. It was very well finished.
larry8, you are now my spring kit guinea pig. Good luck!
Here's a guy disassembling and reassembling the Rossi in 4:30. I don't know if this will help or not.
Hankus
Blackhawk
Cholo, you won't regret it. I looked at several Rossi's in .45 Colt before settling on the .454. The 16" barrels seemed so small to me. The stainless 20" barrel and longer pull fits my 6'1" 210 pound frame a little better, AND I have the option of firing some seriously stout loads. Now I just need to get my press set up and start producing some ammo. I haven't done any reloading in 30+ years so I'll probably be leaning on you guys for advice over the next few months.
I recently purchased a m92 Rossi w/octagon 24" barrel in SS. It shot well so I replaced the sights to something I could see well. It would not feed any ammo as in loading gate then from the mag tube to the barrel. I took it apart and it had never had a deburring tool near it so my hands ended up bloody from everything I touched. After about 4 hours of work smoothing deburring polishing and altering I have a nice rifle that shoots well. I still have one more function alteration todo next time I take it apart.
Now I would like to unpolish the SS parts especially the frame to make it look more like my old Winchester with worn off bluing. The other alteration would be to the stock, I will sand off the finish and make it also look like my 120yo Winchester stock. That's all I need to do to it.....in the meantime I will shoot it lots and enjoy the fact that I can shoot my cast bullets as fast as I want with no leading...
Now I would like to unpolish the SS parts especially the frame to make it look more like my old Winchester with worn off bluing. The other alteration would be to the stock, I will sand off the finish and make it also look like my 120yo Winchester stock. That's all I need to do to it.....in the meantime I will shoot it lots and enjoy the fact that I can shoot my cast bullets as fast as I want with no leading...
Some great information and ideas on this thread!
I had been searching for any lever action in 454 casull for years. (I have the dies and brass already) I literally stumbled upon a new R92 in 454 recently. My previous lever action experience was with Marlins, so this rifle is a new and pleasant learning experience.
I originally planned to put tactical black furniture on it, but the buttstock is perfect; weight, LOP and recoil pad. Plus it's kinda purdy.
Not sure what to do about the forestock, as it wants to jump out of my hand. I need to add some checkering or something? Perhaps I'll just stick to my 454 revolver rule: "always wear gloves"
Not enough rounds (~100) through it yet to review it, but I like it as long as I don't look at the safety. (That peep site idea is looking real promising!) the action is already quite smooth, so I am looking forward to it wearing in! It seems to be tack driver a with 454 and groups ok with 45colt, but it's still too new to judge that anyway. I was hitting a steel target at 200 yards with it. Reminds me of a .45-70 with an attitude.
I plan to develop a 44mag+ type of load for it. I see very little reason to shake it apart with bear defense loads on a regular basis.
Now I really do have that "for shooting the bad guy, hiding behind the refrigerator, in your neighbor's house" gun!
I had been searching for any lever action in 454 casull for years. (I have the dies and brass already) I literally stumbled upon a new R92 in 454 recently. My previous lever action experience was with Marlins, so this rifle is a new and pleasant learning experience.
I originally planned to put tactical black furniture on it, but the buttstock is perfect; weight, LOP and recoil pad. Plus it's kinda purdy.
Not sure what to do about the forestock, as it wants to jump out of my hand. I need to add some checkering or something? Perhaps I'll just stick to my 454 revolver rule: "always wear gloves"Not enough rounds (~100) through it yet to review it, but I like it as long as I don't look at the safety. (That peep site idea is looking real promising!) the action is already quite smooth, so I am looking forward to it wearing in! It seems to be tack driver a with 454 and groups ok with 45colt, but it's still too new to judge that anyway. I was hitting a steel target at 200 yards with it. Reminds me of a .45-70 with an attitude.
I plan to develop a 44mag+ type of load for it. I see very little reason to shake it apart with bear defense loads on a regular basis.
Now I really do have that "for shooting the bad guy, hiding behind the refrigerator, in your neighbor's house" gun!
Wouldn't ya know it! It went back together nicely this morning. The 2 Palo Verde springs I put in did make the action a lot smoother even though it was pretty good before too. All of the internal moving parts I coated with a Teflon like fluid that dries to the touch. I think that will keep the cleaning down a little as there is no liquid to absorb the gunpower carbon. Now, to the armory to see how it shoots.
Yep must be why most of the SASS shooters shoot toggle action 1866, 1873 Winchesters and 1894 Marlins. With these you can take apart in the field for whatever reason needed in a flash and not have to worry about losing any small parts. I have shot a lot of Black Powder in mine and they need to come apart a lot and be easy to clean.
The 92s are great looking for sure,but I have never seen the Duke take his apart.
OK, that guy that disassembles and reassembles his Rossi in 4 minutes has a real sloppy fitting parts on his gun. My gun has tight fitting accurate parts and I cannot disassemble or reassemble it quickly. each and every part I have to coach it in place which took a LONG time to do.
Star43
Blackhawk
I took a look at the video and saw that the gun was very very clean, looking like brand new. Also the way he turned the screws was like butter and seemed already not too tight and ready to turn. Everything looked pretty well lubed to make it easier to take apart to start with. I guess it would make sense that if you want to do a video on how fast and easy to take something apart, that it would be easier to have it "ready to come apart" ?
he might need a couple more bourbons with the problems he is having... should have listened...
what part of the reassembly is giving you issues? If you are more specific we can give you better advice. There are tricks you can use, such as a spent shell casing when reassembling the bolt to hold the extractor in...that is usually the frustrating part.
Star43
Blackhawk
Is that where the Bourbon part comes in ??
OK, Although I have it together now, the difficult parts were the keeping the extractor in place, but after I put in and held a spent shell casing that went easy. The next difficult part was the bolt that goes thru the hammer, trigger, and the frame. What I found doing that is that I had to put the safety on then it all lined up together. Also the frame part that you slide in to the bolt hole is really close fitting as I had to lightly tap it into place, which during doing that the parts aligning the bolt hole became difficult to align. I know I'll have to take it apart again after shooting it to clean it and I don't look forward to doing that.
BisleyBuff
Bearcat
Jumping into this thread late. I have a stainless 16" bbl .454 casull model with the soft recoil pad and fiber optic sights, it loves the 300 gr hornadys. It's my go to nasty weather (snow,sleet, rain) deer gun.
I added the top mount peep and wanted to do the springs, etc. Have the kit with spring and steel follower.
My issue is that it is a stainless steel model and the stock is way too long for me. some are telling me to keep it stock to keep its value. replacement stock or just cut it?
1. my buddy says he can see that stainless steel across the mountain so I have it camo tape wrapped, but I'd like to get some sort of treatment. I like rust blue but since it's stainless that's not an option. Any thoughts on a duller finish?
2. Should I do the finish before I dig into it like you all are doing above?
If this post is appropriate here, I'd like to get you thoughts, if you feel I'm hijacking the OP's post let me know and I'll repost as new, just thought as long as you were all on the subject I post my questions here.
I added the top mount peep and wanted to do the springs, etc. Have the kit with spring and steel follower.
My issue is that it is a stainless steel model and the stock is way too long for me. some are telling me to keep it stock to keep its value. replacement stock or just cut it?
1. my buddy says he can see that stainless steel across the mountain so I have it camo tape wrapped, but I'd like to get some sort of treatment. I like rust blue but since it's stainless that's not an option. Any thoughts on a duller finish?
2. Should I do the finish before I dig into it like you all are doing above?
If this post is appropriate here, I'd like to get you thoughts, if you feel I'm hijacking the OP's post let me know and I'll repost as new, just thought as long as you were all on the subject I post my questions here.
you don't necessarily need to disassemble it for cleaning...take the stock off and hose it down with non-chlorinated brake cleaner...works like a charm.
Rat76
Single-Sixer
Just my opinion, cut the stock & replace it if & when. Dull the finish with a light coat of rattle can paint on the exposed areas.
Reversible & cheap.
Reversible & cheap.
I have taken 92s, 86s and 94 completely apart several times, mine. Not easy unless you do it all the time. They need a good cleaning once and awhile. I lay out all parts facing right. Then leave them there. Take a photo or photos. Each takes the better part of a full day from start to finish. Screws get messed up and need replaced after a few times.
