Revolver Barrel Work

[cadillo]

I need some guidance regarding the barrel on an Old Model .357 Blackhawk. The barrel and thus the sights are not properly timed, a term often used by some of us Old Timers. In other words the barrel is just a few degrees short of being tightened to the point that the front sight is square with the rear sight. As a result the front sight just looks wrong when aiming, and the point of impact is to the left of the point of aim.

While I have re-barreled several S&W L frames and M1 Garands, and thus understand the basics of what is needed, I have never removed, adjusted, or other the barrel of a single action, so am wondering what type barrel vise has any of you used for a Blackhawk barrel. I would like to get this one timed up properly, set the cylinder gap, and then shop for an Old Model 4 5/8" barrel, which is my ultimate goal for the gun.

Any experienced input appreciated.

 

[contender]

While I have not done one myself,, I did a lot of research a few years back about doing one. The biggest thing I saw was the potential for warping or "springing" the main frame. The actual barrel vise can be a normal barrel vise, but you have to secure the frame.
In my case, it was a Vaquero. I opted to try & widen the sight channel a small amount prior to turning the barrel. As it was, the Vaquero had already been bead blasted (stainless) around the rear sight channel so my mods wouldn't hurt any collector value. And, once I opened up the channel a bit, my POI aligned with my sight picture.

I was cruising Power Custom's website this weekend & saw they offer a Delrin main frame block assy for just such projects. Cost will be close to $100.

 

[cadillo]

Contender,

What pray tell is a normal barrel vise? They are as many and varied as one could imagine, but just try to find split bushings for a .75" barrel. They are as rare as hens' teeth. I know about receiver tweaking, and have the proper tooling to handle that aspect of the job correctly. That's why I asked about a recommendation for a the barrel vise, and not the receiver wrench.

I asked for a weather forecast, and you advised me that on any clear day the sky will be blue. Please sit back and see what others have to say. We may both learn something useful.

 

[paulg]

Well after that condescending response I'd tell you to take your Blackhawk and barrel to a qualified gunsmith that can do the job. Hard to teach somebody something that knows it all already.

 

[contender]

Gee, I was trying to help. I happen to own a few barrel vises & all of them involve a bolt together clamp assy that is very similar on all 3. The biggest difference is the size of the vise assy. The biggest difference is the barrel collars which are usually made by the gunsmith involved as it's usually easier to make your own out of hardwood, aluminum or delrin. You drill the proper diameter hole in a block that will fit your vise, and then split it giving you 2 halves. Add tape & rosin & clamp it in the vise. Use the frame wrench to turn.
Or, if you wish, go to Power Custom & look and you will see they offer a barrel vise as well for Ruger revolvers.

 

[cadillo]

Gents,

We can all let our fingers rest on this one. Okie44 was good enough to give me the exact info I needed via PM. Anyone with basic tools can do Single Action barrel work with minimal expenditure using the info he provided. Hopefully the link will work for anyone interested.

I love it when people know of which they speak and write.

Hat's off to Okie44!

http://www.bowenclassicarms.com/news/articles/Sight_Crankin.pdf

 

[Jimbo357mag]

That is a good article. I have seen it before. I have also read that turning Ruger crush fit barrels takes some special talent. Good luck with your project.

 

[cadillo]

Thanks Jimbo,

I don't know whether it is crush fit or not, but if it is, I suspect, hope actually, that it will be little different from the three S&W L Frame crush fit barrels I have changed out. They were actually quite easy once I built my barrel blocks, which are elementary for a full shroud barreled S&W. They screwed right on and torqued up perfectly. I merely had to remove end shake before installation, and then cut the barrel afterward to set the cylinder gap where I wanted it.

I have, use, and recommend the MGW receiver wrench with L Frame inserts, and would not use a piece of wood for torqueing the receiver of a S&W revolver, but according to my tutor in most things related to pistol work, a retired pistol smith, the Ruger and Colt Single Action receivers are sufficiently strong that they won't be thus harmed if approached with reasonable caution. He uses the squared end of a post hole digger as a receiver wrench on even the S&W's. According to him, the only one (S&W) he has heard of being tweaked, was torqued using the wood with the side plate removed from the receiver. Seems that the chap could never get it back on once the deed was done.

If I can't find a large piece of cheap oak, I'll just get the Single Action inserts for my MGW from Brownells on my next order.

Seems that Mr. Bowen is of the same opinion with regard to the Ruger Single Action receivers and their inherent strength versus a piece of oak..

Thanks again to Okie44 for the great information!

I'll soon be gathering the materials listed in the article and putting together that barrel vise along with blocks/bushings for my various barrel diameters.