Replacing Blackhawk Internals

5532JWK

Blackhawk
Joined
Sep 22, 2004
Messages
507
City & State/Province
FL
I have an old model 30 carbine blackhawk that the previous owner had returned to Ruger to have the internal parts replaced to incorporate the safety transfer bar. I have the original parts that Ruger returned with the gun and want to replace the parts and return the gun to the original condition using the original parts. Is there anything special I need to know before attempting this?
 
It's not that hard.
Use proper fitting screwdrivers.
If you have a correct manual for the gun, it'll show you the parts & how they go. Follow the disassembly in the manual & you should be fine.
If you don't have a manual, you can get online & find one at Ruger.
 
Hey, fly me down to Florida for the weekend and I'll do it for you ,for "free"...........( even during the week, I AM 'retired'...) 8)
yes, as Ty noted proper tools, take your time, neatness counts. bet there is a video on YOUTUBE someplace that shows it all, I used to talk guys through this over the telephone........ :roll:
 
While the Old Models are pretty straight forward there are a couple of points to watch for not really covered in Ruger's manual. First is the cylinder latch spring: before removing it memorize how it fits in the frame. When reinstalling it, position it then use a small flat bladed screw driver to push down the short bent end until it snaps into the inside frame tiny hole.

Refitting the grip frame to the main frame takes a bit of jiggling with the trigger spring plunger while at the same time being careful not to pinch the pawl spring between the two frame parts.

Overall the Old Models are at least twice as easy to reassemble as are the new models.

p.s., While you have it apart clean the heck out of every part and lightly oil them before reassembly. These guns can have over 40 years of accumulated crud inside. If you see old dried grease it probably came from the factory, remove and replace with gun oil. I also recommend removing the hammer plunger parts and cleaning out the hammer plunger hammer hole with a pipe cleaner.

Have fun and feel free to pm me if you run into any problems. Also, when the revolver is back together and if the hammer doesn't want to cock, do not force it. A mistake has been made and forcing will only break something.

John
 
Two things to help, # 1 It will help to replace grip frame if you cock the hammer and put put a finish nail / pin in the rod then release hammer #2 be careful with pawl spring it can fall out, or it can be bent when installing grip frame. Good luck
 
contender said:
If you have a correct manual for the gun, it'll show you the parts & how they go. Follow the disassembly in the manual & you should be fine.
If you don't have a manual, you can get online & find one at Ruger.

Everyone should have the factory owner's manual, but the schematic for this one isn't very helpful. It does have some rudimentary instructions.
 
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If you get stuck, lemme know; I'll take one of mine apart and post some pics so you'll have something to go by to reassemble the gun.

:D
 
Grip frame screws!!

When disassembling, take the top two screws out first, then 3 bottom ones.

When assembling 3 bottom ones first, then top ones.

Ever see the bare aluminum scratches inside the two top two screw holes in the gripframe? Nasty buggers caused by wrong screwdriver or wrong order of dis/reassembly. In fact is may be a good idea to insure all three bottom screws are tight prior to taking it apart.

This is not a difficult procedure but may be a bit daunting the first time. I am sure you will do fine.

SATCOM
 
I sure appreciate everyone's help. I'll let you know how it went once I complete the task.
 
When you install the cyl bolt spring, be sure to put the screw thru it to capture it before you start putting it under tension to hook it into the hole in the frame. When disassembling the grip frame screws, loosen the top two and bottom two one turn each before you remove any of them. It takes the pressure off of them, they screw in and out much easier and w/o the heads rubbling the anodizing out of the holes in the grip frame.
 
One more little 'trick' is to remember the positioning of the main spring when you take it out....there is an angle on it and you want to put it back exactly the same way. I use a small nail with a 'head' on it and I put the nail in from the left side so the head is sticking out the left side (obviously). Reassembly of this one part is now 'unquestionable' to my simple and dyslexic mind. John N.
 
I would recommend getting Jerry Kuhnhausen's book on Ruger Single Actions. I recently picked up a copy, and it's jam-packed with great information and lots of illustrations.

It's available from Brownells, Midway, or you can get it direct from the publisher at http://www.gunbooks.com.
 
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