Reloading 40 S&W

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Jun 30, 2006
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Far West Valley, Phoenix Arizona
Hello,

I do shoot Glock pistols in 40 S&W and have been wanting to start reloading for them. Just wanted to share how it has worked out for me.

Purchased the Redding G-R x Push Thru sizing die with e-z feed Pushrod for removing the case bulges associated with the 40 S&W in Glock barrels. An additional step but it was fast and easy. Used the Imperial Sizing Die Wax as recommended.

Purchased Lee Deluxe Pistol Die Set in 40 S&W / 10 MM and included the Carbide Factory Crimp Die. This is a 4 die set.

What a nice set up. I reloaded 20 rounds with the following load data:

CCI Brass
Fed Small Pistol Primers # 100
5.3 Grains Unique
180 Grain Plated flat nose bullet - light crimp

My Glock 22 and 35 both like the load fine. Intended purpose will be plinking.

Knocked out 200 more rounds last night.

Will consider purchasing a Lone Wolf barrel in the future to avoid the case bulge issue but I have lots of brass now so I guess I will work with what I got.

Anyone else out there loading for Glocks in 40 S&W?
 
What generation is your Glock? Glock changed their .40 S&W chamber dimensions in 2002, IIRC, and barrels made since then are much less likely to cause the 'Glock bulge' than earlier ones. You **may not** always need your Redding G-R x die - especially with your own brass.

I just started reloading for my Gen 4 G22; haven't got a Redding G-R x die - yet. I suspect that since I'm loading bulk once-fired brass, I'm going to need one eventually.
 
Both my 22 and 35 are Gen 3 guns but both were manufacturer between 2006 and 2011. I have been saving my brass in 40 S&W for years and not all has been fired in Glocks. The non bulged brass just slides thru the Redding die with less resistance. I dig into my bags of 40 brass and they are all going to take a pass thru the Redding die. Been picking up brass for years and only just started reloading in Dec 2012.
 
Loaded round,, I disagree. In USPSA competition,, MANY people reload their 40 S&W ammo, and use them in Glocks.
 
The "kaboom" thing is overplayed. Now, what you do have to watch out for is bullet setback as the round is fed. If you are loading to factory ammo pressure levels, there isn't much margin, and a bullet that gets pushed back into the case on chambering can significantly increase the pressure. Of course, that's a problem with 9mm or 357 Sig or any round where there isn't much case volume to start with.

I even shoot LEAD bullets in a Glock factory barrel. GASP!
 
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Good for you ! About time this was dealt with, with common sense. My G-23 has digested anything, but now has a Storm Lake 9mm barrel in place. That also chugs thru anything. Stay safe. stevemb
 
Just my opinion for what it's worth. My son blew up a Glock 21 for the same reason. If I still had a Block, I'd use only factory ammo in it.
 
He blew up a Glock 21? That's gotta be even harder with the lower pressure 45 Auto round. Did he double charge it?

You can blow up anything with a setback bullet and fast powder, or charge near max, though. I had some bullet setback issues on a 1911 once, but thankfully the gun survived. I stopped shooting when I fired off a round that felt double the recoil of all the others. Checked out the remainder of the rounds and could easily push the bullet down into the case on some of them. Think that was Blazer brass casings on those particular rounds. Couldn't get any kind of neck tension.
 
No problems with the 40 here. My usual load is a modest charge of H Universal under a 165 grn plated bullet.
 
I am new here but Glocks in 40S&W and hard cast bullets are A OK. One problem some have had with 40s in Glocks as well as other pistols is that they try to make 10 mm out of them. The story about Glocks and cast bullets comes from a large West Coast PD using soft lead bullets in practice ammo and not cleaning the lead out as Glock told them they had to do to avoid persure problems. It came down to telling the PD their officers were stupid or saying NO LEAD bullets. Glock were with no lead so they kept the contract. I have fired over 200K of lead bullets using several Glocks. No Problems. Bullet set back can be a problem with any cal in a auto pistol.
Steve
 
Skip the Lone Wolf barrel(s); recommend KKM. Or Jarvis.

If shooting lead bullets run a Bore-Snake through the bore EVERY ONE HUNDRED rds.

Rainier plated bullets work pretty well from common Glock bores.



Some of Tim's personal 40 rules:
--Ensure sufficient case neck tension (or use mechanical means) to preclude setback.
--Use appropriate powders based on load goal; don't try hot-rodding Bullseye....
--Gauge or chamber-check every single rd.
--Use an OAL of 1.130"+.005"/-.010".
--When in doubt (about any component or finished cartridge) throw it out. Way less than a new gun, ay?
 
WESHOOT2,

Thanks for the advice.

I am only loading plated or FMJ bullets.
I am always looking for Rainier or Berry's plated bullets.
No lead in my Glocks.
Lee factory crimp die for sufficient case neck tension.
Using middle of the road load - Nothing hot.
I have been chamber checking a representative sample of the rounds but will start checking every round.
Have been using OAL of 1.125 and will follow advice on +/-.
I will not fire any round that is in doubt.

Good advice and that is why I enjoy this forum so much.

Bill
 
ceros roman nose said:
I thought this was a Rugar forum?

Hi, and welcome to the Forum!

Indeed it is, but we're sympathetic to minority groups, like S&W, Glock, all the other folks who make 1911s of one flavor or another, and a couple of others. They're more likely to buy Rugers if we first forgive them their sins! Few, if any of us, should throw stones, ya know? Heck, we even allow creative spelling once in a while! :lol:

Rick C
 
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