Please build a 308 Win load with these components.

[Yankee_Papa]

For a 16" Ruger Laminate Compact in 308 Winchester to be used for a 12" x 24" metal target out to 600 yards.

I have the manuals from Hornady, Speer, Lymans, and Lee, and access to online load data. But, where would YOU start with these components? Are some of the components better than the others? Has anyone loaded for a Compact in 308 Win ?

Powders:

BL-C(2),
IMR 4895,
Reloder 15,
Varget,

All I've got is CCI Large Rifle Primers.

Bullets:

145 gr FMJ bulk packaged from Wideners,
Hornady 150 gr A-Max,
Hornady 165 gr BTSP,
Sierra 180 gr Spitzer GameKing,
Speer 180 gr Spitzer Hot-Cor

Brass:

BHA MATCH 308 WIN
Hornady 308 WIN,
WA 80 7.62 R1M1
POF 80 L2A2
LC 0x LR

TIA, Steve

 

[loaded round]

What do you want to make, hunting, target, self defense, or plinking loads? You need to be more specific on what you want to do.

 

[recumbent]

What do you want to make, hunting, target, self defense, or plinking loads? You need to be more specific on what you want to do.

The first sentence says what he wants to do.

 

[contender]

Ok, I would begin by reading the manuals,, under the caliber,, and see if any of them list a preferred powder or any other item they found to be better than others.
Often, in the few paragraphs about that caliber, there will be a line or two to that effect.

Next,, if that didn't work,, I'd look at the test guns used by the manuals,, specifically the barrel lengths. Barrel length makes a difference in velocities. Find the selection that's the closest to your 16" bbl. If all used the same barrel length, then I'd study burning rates for your powders.
Next, by following the manuals,, starting with the faster powders, I'd start experimenting,,, to see what the gun preferred.
Only by actual testing will you find what is best for your gun.
Oh, and remember,, bullet seating depth is also an issue,, and that can affect accuracy & velocities.
Too many variables to try & give a place to start w/o details.

And of course,, you are going to separate all the brass into brand specific, and make sure they are all properly trimmed & uniform prior to any testing.

And as for selecting the bullet to start with,, you also need to know what the rifling twist is for your barrel, vs the test barrels in the manuals. Bullet balance is necessary. Another thing to consider,,, since distance is long, and steel is the target,, the ballistic coefficient is another factor in bullet selection.

 

[Yankee_Papa]

So, Ruger Guru,

Your reply is basically, "I can't help you."

You should have simply stayed out of it.

What a waste of my reading time.

 

[Snake45]

So, Ruger Guru,

Your reply is basically, "I can't help you."

You should have simply stayed out of it.

What a waste of my reading time.

:shock: :?
Now I know to stay out of it, too. Thanks for the warning. Good luck with your project. :?

 

[toysoldier]

When I wanted to know what powder to use to make up heavy bullet loads for my Rossi 92 .357, I looked through the reloading manuals I had on hand (The Complete Reloading Manual for the .357 Magnum, Sierra Bullets Reloading Manual, Modern Reloading--Second Edition), then started searching forums on the web for information from a variety of individuals. More than just velocity, I looked at comments about accuracy, thermal sensitivity, flexibility of loading, and anything else. Once I saw something of a consensus developing around 2400, I went back to the Lee manual for load data. It was a slow process, but safer than going with "Here's my favorite load" from any one person.

 

[mikld]

Where's the "ignore" button?

 

[loaded round]

my, CTI1USNRET seems to have an attitude problem!

 

[NikA]

1-10 twist on the Ruger .308s and your desire to keep 2MOA at 600 yards indicate to me you should probably be using the 165 or 180gr bullets and a consistent brand of brass. I have no opinion on the powder charge, you're going to have to work up to figure out what node works for your rifle if you want to make 600 yard shots.

 

[kmoore]

No magic bullet to tell you whats the best of the best. Range time with what you got is what you need.
Personally I would skip every hunting bullet and lighter weight bullet. Why? your shooting steel targets, use a match bullet. Years ago when I was shooting and winning national high power matches shooting the M-14s. Sierra match bullets were about the only thing going. All top shooters used them including the military teams. At 600 yards we dropped using the 168 grain bullets and went to 180s and 190s or else the wind would push the lighter bullets out of the x ring. Now 30 years later there are more choices in long range match bullets. Leave hunting bullets for hunting. I once got a small supply of Lapua 190s and they were great 600- 800 yd rounds. Very expense and hard to get back then. So went back to 168s Sierras for close in work at 200 and 300. 180s for longer.
IMR 4895 was popular, maybe most used. I used that among others to test. 4895 and win 748. I now use 748 only in an AR-10. Also all match loads I use federal match primers, as all match shooters I used to know.
I understand the requirements given to not allow for match loads. If you just want to hit a steel target, I suppose anything will do that at some point. If you want to keep getting hits on at 600 yards, open up your requirements and start with what guys that shoot that distance to win. As mentioned BC is your friend and should top your reason why which bullet you use.

 

[contender]

Gee,,, it was NOT my intent to upset you. I was merely trying to get you to accept the fact that it takes work with the many variables to achieve your goal.
And my suggestions are what I suggest for ANYBODY trying to work up an accurate load.

No 2 guns are the same. Even identical made ones. They can & often will shoot differently.
No magic recipe is instantly available.
YOU posted a lot of variables. (Different powders, different bullets, different brands of brass.)

But obviously you choose to ignore the facts involved in what is commonly called; "Working up a load for your gun."
Sorry I "wasted your time."
I just posted my experiences gained by over 40 years of reloading experience.

 

[Rumrunner]

You might try loads used for a 16" Encore. Of course you might also try not being an ass.

 

[Mobuck]

I'd start with the 4895 and 165 grain bullets. Primer and case would be whatever you have the most of. 4895 will likely give good velocity w/o a giant fireball and the 165 has far better accuracy potential than the bulk pack 147 FMJ.

 

[krw]

Just because you have the bullets doesnt mean your married to them. Sell some of them, buy some Sierra MatchKing in 175gr. Take 1 brand brass and weight sort them. Work up to 43.3gr Varget lded at 2.800 with .003” necktension.

 

[daveg.inkc]

Steve, Contender always has the best advice and knowledge. He is a smart man. Next you will be wanting someone here to sight it in for you. And don’t forget the extra pad for your tender shoulder. Recoil is brutal.

 

[tinman]

I see he has not returned for more advice......... :roll:

 

[daveg.inkc]

Don’t insult experienced shooters. The interesting part of reloading is trying new combinations of powder and bullets. It’s fine to ask for help, but Steve dropped a box full of bullets and several powders on the table and was too lazy to go shoot until a good load was developed. I was in a big gun store in Columbia, MO , and listened to a well dressed man buy a Weatherby rifle. He wanted the clerk to sight in this super magnum for him. Clerk told him bore sighting was all he could do. Rest up to owner to find a hunting load.

 

[daveg.inkc]

And when I find an accurate load, I share. I found HS-6 very accurate in my .41 M Blackhawk. 170- 215 gr slugs.

 

[tinman]

Interesting how some people don't understand:
Advice is something asked for and is freely given.
And, unless I am a very good friend of yours, anything else I expect to be paid to do.

 

[kmoore]

Just my opinion, what was asked and with what was to be used showed me he has not reached the 1st grade in the long range shooting class.
That's okay, many on here can help, but why if advice or comments were not what he wanted to hear.
I do think it's funny that some maybe including the poster think that you can buy rifle XYZ, shoot ABC ammo and be a sniper or long range shooter. Just hitting a target at 600 yds can be done. Doing it repeatedly takes work that only range time will solve. I was doing it at 19 years old with open sights, but with 5 years of hard practice before learning all what goes into hitting the 10 ring while laying on my belly with a rifle sling on most shots and having a great coach.

 

[wwb]

Just because you have the bullets doesnt mean your married to them. Sell some of them, buy some Sierra MatchKing in 175gr. Take 1 brand brass and weight sort them. Work up to 43.3gr Varget lded at 2.800 with .003” necktension.

You forgot to add: "seated .010" off the lands". :wink:

This guy just doesn't understand that what works well in one rifle probably doesn't perform in another. The only true advice has already been given..... "165 to 180 grain match bullets". Everything else is trial and error.

 

[krw]

I didn’t really forget. He is shooting a factory rifle. It will have a very generous freebore as all factory rifles do. And SAAMI spec for max oal is 2.800”. He will have to stay really close to that max length to feed through magazine. Now I have a custom 308 that was chambered with PTG “Bisley” reamer. I ld 2.800” and my Jump is .010”. It shoots mighty good!!

 

[powder smoke]

I see he has not returned for more advice......... :roll:

That's a good thing, kinda rude ya think? ps

 

[wwb]

Don't know if he's still around or not, but I for got to add in my earlier post - with that stubby 16" barrel, of all the load data available, choose one with a faster powder. A 22 or 24 inch barrel can take advantage of a larger charge of a slower powder, but not a 16 incher.

 

[langenc]

Call Sierra Bulletsmiths they will help. No need to have Sierra bullets they help all callers.

 

[BrassMagnet]

You forgot to add: "seated .010" off the lands".

This guy just doesn't understand that what works well in one rifle probably doesn't perform in another. The only true advice has already been given..... "165 to 180 grain match bullets". Everything else is trial and error.

I would also try 180 grain Game Kings or 165 grain Game Kings. Lower ballistic coefficient than the Match Kings, but still suitable options. I would go for the 4895 in a semiautomatic or Win 748 in a bolt action first also. I would also choose a longer barrel with a 10.5 twist.
I have shot 600 yards and further for score with Garand and M1A in 30 cal and AR in 5.56. All with iron sights. The Game Kings shoot quite well out of my bolt actions with 10.5 twist, 180 Game King, and Win 748. WLR primers are my choice.

 

[Yankee_Papa]

I would also try 180 grain Game Kings or 165 grain Game Kings. Lower ballistic coefficient than the Match Kings, but still suitable options. I would go for the 4895 in a semiautomatic or Win 748 in a bolt action first also. I would also choose a longer barrel with a 10.5 twist.
I have shot 600 yards and further for score with Garand and M1A in 30 cal and AR in 5.56. All with iron sights. The Game Kings shoot quite well out of my bolt actions with 10.5 twist, 180 Game King, and Win 748. WLR primers are my choice.

OP here.

There was always the chance that someone with a Ruger 308 Laminate Compact rifle had a few loads that worked well. That's what I was hoping for.

There were a few guys who were nice and simply gave information without a judgemental attitude.

But there were a couple retarded internet experts assuming I didn't know what I am doing. They are everywhere on the internet. You never meet such people face to face. They'd lose teeth.

I already have a 600 yd load for my 18" DS Arms SA-58. It didn't work well with the 308 Compact. I did better with the SA-58 iron sights than I did with a 4x scope on the Compact.

Back in the early 70s in high school I was hitting woodchucks at 800 yards with a Winchester Model 70 in 264 Win Mag and handloads. I got the Model 70 at a yard sale when somebody died. Back then my dad and I had to make my brass from his 375 H&H Mag cases. We pulled his bullets, collected the powder, formed and trimmed the cases, and worked up the load from scratch using bullets from Swedish Mauser loads. I just used the primer that was already seated. We didn't have a loading manual. Old school.

 

[Mobuck]

I probably should just stay out of this but can't resist. Short barrels will do a bit better with faster powders (4895) and lighter bullets but still come up short @ 600 yards.

 

[JStacy]

Check some of the Lyman manuals for 308 data they have suggested "accuracy" loads for different bullet weights. I have found that the recommended loads are often a good place to start. I like H4895 in the 308 but I only shoot 150 and 165 grain bullets.
Some people are hesitant about recommending loads because of the liability factor. To error on the side of caution is never a bad approach when someone ask an opened question.