Please build a 308 Win load with these components.

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Yankee_Papa

Bearcat
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
55
Location
Southwest NH
For a 16" Ruger Laminate Compact in 308 Winchester to be used for a 12" x 24" metal target out to 600 yards.

I have the manuals from Hornady, Speer, Lymans, and Lee, and access to online load data. But, where would YOU start with these components? Are some of the components better than the others? Has anyone loaded for a Compact in 308 Win ?

Powders:

BL-C(2),
IMR 4895,
Reloder 15,
Varget,

All I've got is CCI Large Rifle Primers.

Bullets:

145 gr FMJ bulk packaged from Wideners,
Hornady 150 gr A-Max,
Hornady 165 gr BTSP,
Sierra 180 gr Spitzer GameKing,
Speer 180 gr Spitzer Hot-Cor

Brass:

BHA MATCH 308 WIN
Hornady 308 WIN,
WA 80 7.62 R1M1
POF 80 L2A2
LC 0x LR

TIA, Steve
 

contender

Ruger Guru
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Messages
22,074
Location
Lake Lure NC USA
Ok, I would begin by reading the manuals,, under the caliber,, and see if any of them list a preferred powder or any other item they found to be better than others.
Often, in the few paragraphs about that caliber, there will be a line or two to that effect.

Next,, if that didn't work,, I'd look at the test guns used by the manuals,, specifically the barrel lengths. Barrel length makes a difference in velocities. Find the selection that's the closest to your 16" bbl. If all used the same barrel length, then I'd study burning rates for your powders.
Next, by following the manuals,, starting with the faster powders, I'd start experimenting,,, to see what the gun preferred.
Only by actual testing will you find what is best for your gun.
Oh, and remember,, bullet seating depth is also an issue,, and that can affect accuracy & velocities.
Too many variables to try & give a place to start w/o details.

And of course,, you are going to separate all the brass into brand specific, and make sure they are all properly trimmed & uniform prior to any testing.

And as for selecting the bullet to start with,, you also need to know what the rifling twist is for your barrel, vs the test barrels in the manuals. Bullet balance is necessary. Another thing to consider,,, since distance is long, and steel is the target,, the ballistic coefficient is another factor in bullet selection.
 

Snake45

Hawkeye
Joined
Mar 14, 2009
Messages
6,979
Location
+4020
CTI1USNRET said:
So, Ruger Guru,

Your reply is basically, "I can't help you."

You should have simply stayed out of it.

What a waste of my reading time.
:shock: :?
Now I know to stay out of it, too. Thanks for the warning. Good luck with your project. :?
 

toysoldier

Hunter
Joined
Aug 23, 2006
Messages
3,332
Location
Hutchinson, KS USA
When I wanted to know what powder to use to make up heavy bullet loads for my Rossi 92 .357, I looked through the reloading manuals I had on hand (The Complete Reloading Manual for the .357 Magnum, Sierra Bullets Reloading Manual, Modern Reloading--Second Edition), then started searching forums on the web for information from a variety of individuals. More than just velocity, I looked at comments about accuracy, thermal sensitivity, flexibility of loading, and anything else. Once I saw something of a consensus developing around 2400, I went back to the Lee manual for load data. It was a slow process, but safer than going with "Here's my favorite load" from any one person.
 

NikA

Buckeye
Joined
Nov 2, 2014
Messages
1,534
Location
Yrisarri, NM- high in the Manzanos
1-10 twist on the Ruger .308s and your desire to keep 2MOA at 600 yards indicate to me you should probably be using the 165 or 180gr bullets and a consistent brand of brass. I have no opinion on the powder charge, you're going to have to work up to figure out what node works for your rifle if you want to make 600 yard shots.
 

kmoore

Buckeye
Joined
Mar 29, 2017
Messages
1,319
Location
Idaho
No magic bullet to tell you whats the best of the best. Range time with what you got is what you need.
Personally I would skip every hunting bullet and lighter weight bullet. Why? your shooting steel targets, use a match bullet. Years ago when I was shooting and winning national high power matches shooting the M-14s. Sierra match bullets were about the only thing going. All top shooters used them including the military teams. At 600 yards we dropped using the 168 grain bullets and went to 180s and 190s or else the wind would push the lighter bullets out of the x ring. Now 30 years later there are more choices in long range match bullets. Leave hunting bullets for hunting. I once got a small supply of Lapua 190s and they were great 600- 800 yd rounds. Very expense and hard to get back then. So went back to 168s Sierras for close in work at 200 and 300. 180s for longer.
IMR 4895 was popular, maybe most used. I used that among others to test. 4895 and win 748. I now use 748 only in an AR-10. Also all match loads I use federal match primers, as all match shooters I used to know.
I understand the requirements given to not allow for match loads. If you just want to hit a steel target, I suppose anything will do that at some point. If you want to keep getting hits on at 600 yards, open up your requirements and start with what guys that shoot that distance to win. As mentioned BC is your friend and should top your reason why which bullet you use.
 

contender

Ruger Guru
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Messages
22,074
Location
Lake Lure NC USA
Gee,,, it was NOT my intent to upset you. I was merely trying to get you to accept the fact that it takes work with the many variables to achieve your goal.
And my suggestions are what I suggest for ANYBODY trying to work up an accurate load.

No 2 guns are the same. Even identical made ones. They can & often will shoot differently.
No magic recipe is instantly available.
YOU posted a lot of variables. (Different powders, different bullets, different brands of brass.)

But obviously you choose to ignore the facts involved in what is commonly called; "Working up a load for your gun."
Sorry I "wasted your time."
I just posted my experiences gained by over 40 years of reloading experience.
 

Mobuck

Hawkeye
Joined
Dec 25, 2007
Messages
7,794
Location
missouri
I'd start with the 4895 and 165 grain bullets. Primer and case would be whatever you have the most of. 4895 will likely give good velocity w/o a giant fireball and the 165 has far better accuracy potential than the bulk pack 147 FMJ.
 

krw

Blackhawk
Joined
May 29, 2003
Messages
691
Location
Arkansas
Just because you have the bullets doesnt mean your married to them. Sell some of them, buy some Sierra MatchKing in 175gr. Take 1 brand brass and weight sort them. Work up to 43.3gr Varget lded at 2.800 with .003” necktension.
 

daveg.inkc

Hunter
Joined
Nov 14, 2015
Messages
2,503
Location
Kansas City, MO
Don’t insult experienced shooters. The interesting part of reloading is trying new combinations of powder and bullets. It’s fine to ask for help, but Steve dropped a box full of bullets and several powders on the table and was too lazy to go shoot until a good load was developed. I was in a big gun store in Columbia, MO , and listened to a well dressed man buy a Weatherby rifle. He wanted the clerk to sight in this super magnum for him. Clerk told him bore sighting was all he could do. Rest up to owner to find a hunting load.
 

tinman

Buckeye
Joined
Jul 19, 2015
Messages
1,812
Location
Texas
Interesting how some people don't understand:
Advice is something asked for and is freely given.
And, unless I am a very good friend of yours, anything else I expect to be paid to do.
 

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