OM .357 Blackhawk FT frame

[Ale-8(1)]

I would much rather have the steel housing, it wears better than the aluminium. But beggars can't be choosers!

Both the Type 2 and Type 3 were steel. The Type 2 had the "offset" slot while the Type 3 had the straight slot.

And they can be blued.

 

[jyo]

I used to collect OM Flattop Rugers---love those revolvers---I moved on and most of them got away over time, but I did keep two---a truly mint 4 3/4" 357 that gets shot, but will never see the inside of a holster---and a very late production 44 mag that had it's barrel chopped to 4 3/4" (very nicely done, looks factory) in very nice condition that had been on many outdoor adventures over the decades with me riding in an old Ruger Flap holster... A great packing pistol, but with power when loaded with 44 Mag ammo... These days, it mostly gets shot with 44 Special +P reloads (7.5 grains of Unique under a hard cast 240 grain SWC for right around 950 FPS) and is rather pleasant to shoot!

 

[Joey]

Both the Type 2 and Type 3 were steel. The Type 2 had the "offset" slot while the Type 3 had the straight slot.

And they can be blued.

What I like about them is the bluing! I just bought a ss that has a steel eh, really like them.

 

[Joey]

Got the cylinder in today, along with a parts kit I had ordered. Cylinder is in great shape! Now about all I lack to get started is the barrel, gonna hafta wait on it a couple weeks. The penny jar is about empty!

 

[Hondo44]

You mentioned having trouble finding a rear sight, Micro all steel with rounded front end of the base.
Those are hard to find, however the new model flattop Blackhawk uses an almost identical steel sight. You just need to round off the front tip to fit the inlay in the old model frame.

The other minor difference is the top rear corner of the sight base behind the sight leaf is nicely rounded instead of the sharp edge and corners of the original old model micro sight. Of course that doesn't affect the fit to the old model frame.

 

[Joey]

You mentioned having trouble finding a rear sight, Micro all steel with rounded front end of the base
Those are hard to find, however the new model flattop Blackhawk uses uses an almost identical sight. You just need to round off the front tip to fit the inlay in your old model frame.

The other minor difference is the top rear corner of the sight base behind the sight leaf is nicely rounded instead of the sharp edge and corners of the original old model micro sight. Of course that doesn't affect the fit to you old model frame.

I may have to go that way. I have 3 leads on rear sights, if they come thru, all is well. I would just much prefer the original sight.
Thanks for the info, I will keep it in mind.

 

[Joey]

It’s coming together, slowly but sholey. Thanks to member Randyzz, I have a set of original grips that are in GREAT shape! The cylinder came in a couple weeks ago, I have an original micro sight and a steel er housing on the way. Should have a barrel in a couple weeks, which I will need to have fitted by someone. The threads will most likely have to be cut to get the front sight aligned. Then the forcing cone will have to be trimmed and reamed. I assume I am correct in this. The rest I can do myself. A lot more goes into a complete refurb than l figgered on, but I am enjoying it.

 

[Joey]

Got the sight in from Woundedknee Floyd a couple weeks ago. Got the barrel in from G2 today, was in better shape than I thought from the pictures! I am going to temporarily put it together and decide if I want to blue or do some touch up with oxpho blue and leave it at that.

 

[Joey]

The more I look at it, the more I am leaning to a total re-blue.

 

[contender]

Looks like it’s slowly coming together.

 

[Joey]

I have all the parts I need, at least the main external parts. I think I have the internal parts, including the firing pin assembly. Three ways to go with the assembly. Assemble with the help of my 'smith buddy and re-blue, assemble with conversion parts and send it to Ruger to blue. Send the whole box of parts to Ruger, they will assemble and blue for a very reasonable price. Only stickler is the barrel. The tech I spoke to a few weeks ago said they would try to use the OM barrel, no promises. I don't want a NM barrel on this revolver. I guess I could assemble the barrel and send the rest to Ruger. Decisions, decisions.....

Looks like it's slowly coming together.

 

[contender]

I wouldn't sent it to Ruger.

First,, they will remove the OM action parts & install the safety transfer bar action.
Secondly,, they may well look at it & decide it's not "safe" (their terms for they don't want to risk liability issues,) and not put the OM barrel on it.
No,, I'd work with a local smith if I couldn't do the work myself.

 

[Joey]

I wouldn't sent it to Ruger.

First,, they will remove the OM action parts & install the safety transfer bar action.
Secondly,, they may well look at it & decide it's not "safe" (their terms for they don't want to risk liability issues,) and not put the OM barrel on it.
No,, I'd work with a local smith if I couldn't do the work myself.

Exactly what I am afraid of. I would send it with the conversion parts installed, I have 2 kits. But the barrel is the big if. I can do everything but fit the barrel, I have a couple NM barrels I have prepped for bluing, life keeps getting in the way of doing them. If they turn out ok, I will blue this revolver myself. If not, there are a couple options.

Thanks for your input Contender. It is greatly appreciated.

Can hardly wait to get this underway!

 

[contender]

If the barrel install is your issue,, get a gunsmith that knows how to fit one. Normally, it should tighten down until about 10 degrees from TDC, then you torque it the rest of the way. If the shoulder doesn't allow that,, a gunsmith can cut back the shoulder on a lathe, then reface the rear of the barrel & touch up the forcing cone.
I'd SERIOUSLY be looking at that route.

 

[Joey]

Thanks, Tyrone. That is what I will probably do. The barrel will only hand tighten about half way in, the picture shows as far as it will go. I have cleaned the threads with oil, brush and cloth on frame and barrel, still no go. Don't want to force it. The threads may have to be cleaned up with a chaser. Don't want to run a tap and die on it, will take out too much material. I have several barrels, only one will hand tighten to the frame.

 

[Hondo44]

No refinish will compare to what Ruger can do and for a great price! Like Tyrone suggested, get the barrel and ejector housing fitted/mounted professionally, install retrofit action parts and send to Ruger. You’ll have it back in two weeks max.

 

[contender]

Hondo44 has a good point as well. Ruger's refinishing is excellent. I'd put in a set of cheap transfer bar parts & keep the original FT parts at home. And I'd put on an aftermarket (cheap) set of grips as well.

 

[Joey]

A fantastic idea. Probably the best thing I can do. Thanks, Hondo and Tyrone.

 

[Joey]

I cleaned the threads up on the barrel and frame, chucked it up in my barrel vise and tightened it just to see if it would time. As you can see it is about 10 degrees in the wrong direction. The search is on for a well equipped ‘smith. I also need to find some ragged xr3 grips for the ride to Ruger. Only ones I have are stags and custom walnut. I have several xr3 reds but I want the grip frame to look as good as the gun!

 

[Hondo44]

As I recall Ruger prefers that you not ship grips on the gun. Just something extra they have to keep from getting misplaced.
Note: if your grip frame is an original aluminum alloy model it’s anodized and they don’t refinish those. They switched to being powder coated some years ago (which is actually a better finish) on the aluminum alloy grip frames. So if you want your grip frame returned as is, put a note in with your gun.
When you call them for your shipping label you can discuss that with them.

 

[Joey]

Good info, H44. I sent an OM 41 mag with a barrel problem, they put a NM barrel on it blued the whole gun, and refinished (powdered coated ) the gf. I would rather have this one with the original finish. Thanks much! I will also send it with no grips.

 

[Joey]

Got pieces and parts dropped off at my 'smith buddy, he screwed the barrel in while I was there. got it to about 2 degrees from TDC. Said I just wasn't putting enough a## behind it! Is going to get it put together for me if I can find my TB kit Don't want to send it to ruger with the OM parts installed. It will be a coupla weeks getting it back. But the process is a go!
He wanted to put the whole thing together after I told him the story of the frame. Pissed him off!!!! When I told him about the Browning shotguns, he was really upset!

 

[Joey]

On an unrelated subject, kinda.
How do you tell real ivories from fake? These have no veining in them. Does that signify fake?

 

[NitroAcres]

On an unrelated subject, kinda.
How do you tell real ivories from fake? These have no veining in them. Does that signify fake?

Take a needle and heat it up red...find a spot on the back side and touch the glowing needle to it..if it melts Fake, if it smells like burning hair..Real
(real something).

 

[Hondo44]

Look at the butt of the grips for the distinctive Schreger cross hatch pattern.

 

[Ale-8(1)]

What would happen if you shipped a gun in without any action parts at all? They could still install the conversion parts. I believe I'd call Ruger and ask about this.

 

[Joey]

What would happen if you shipped a gun in without any action parts at all? They could still install the conversion parts. I believe I'd call Ruger and ask about this.

I have been told that I can ship it without parts and Ruger would install the conversion parts. They will not send you the conv. parts, must be installed in house. They would then stamp it with an R on the bottom of the frame. I sent one in with the conv parts installed, they did not stamp the frame.

 

[Joey]

Look at the butt of the grips for the distinctive Schreger cross hatch pattern.

I can't see any crosshatch with my old eyes, but if I magnify the pic, I see something that looks like it.

 

[Hondo44]

The Shreger pattern would be obvious and I don’t see it at all in your photo. The grips are polymer, unfortunately not ivory.

 

[Joey]

The Shreger pattern would be obvious and I don't see it at all in your photo. The grips are polymer, unfortunately not ivory.

Oh, well, they were given to me so I am happy with then. Have them mounted on an om .357.