I bought a new set of Redding dies for my Ruger 280AI. After making measurements from a couple spent cases from my chamber, I had a good idea of how to dial in my FL due to give me the right amount of shoulder bump. I've got just one problem, though… my die isn't giving me enough bump! I have it screwed all the way down to kiss the shell holder, but still not enough. So I tried calling Redding today, but as of Friday, they're closed for two weeks. So have any of you folks heard about this before? I know the 280AI was a wildcat for years, but I would think after it became an official SAAMI cartridge, Redding would have built their FL die to spec. On the other hand, do you think my chamber is too small? Any advice is appreciated. I must be overlooking something.
New die doesn’t give enough shoulder bump
- Thread starter seasterl
- Start date
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Enigma
Hunter
Do you have the die screwed down far enough for the press to cam-over? If not, give your FL die another 1/2 turn, or so, and measure again. If that doesn't work, there are a couple of different soultions. If you have multiple shell holders for the .30-06 family case head, try switching them around and measuring the results. Especially between different brands, there seems to be very little consistency in shell holder 'height.' If not, you can order a set of Redding's Competition Shell Holders, that are graduated in .002" steps. You can also grind around .010" from the top of your shell holder; if you do, mark it, so that it stays with those dies. Lastly, you can grind a few thousandths of an inch off the bottom of the sizer die. Some people get all excited when the last remedy is suggested, saying that 'you'll ruin the die.' If it doesn't do what it's supposed to, what do you have to lose? Shortening the die by .005-.010" isn't going to 'ruin' it, if done with a minimum amount of caution and common sense. I've done this a few times, or had a machinist do it, more accurately. Grind it down even and bevel the edges slightly, then polish. Or, wait until Redding comes back to work and see if they'll exchange the die.
As far as Redding updating their die specs; don't hold your breath. A lot of manufacturers are the same way.
As far as Redding updating their die specs; don't hold your breath. A lot of manufacturers are the same way.
Is your chamber a commercial SAAMI spec chamber or wildcat cut chamber??? Can you buzz a few thou off the bottom of the die?
Thanks for the replies. The press setup is all-Redding (dies, shell holder, and T7 press) and with ram all the way up, the die is screwed down all the way to make contact. The rifle is a Ruger Hawkeye African, so the chamber "should" be SAAMI spec and not wildcat.
Since local machine shops in my area have a long wait time, charge very high prices, and rarely take in one-of small jobs like this, I guess the easiest thing is to wait for Redding to reopen and go from there. Maybe they'll swap out the die or send me another shell holder. (I don't have any others for this family of cartridges.)
Since local machine shops in my area have a long wait time, charge very high prices, and rarely take in one-of small jobs like this, I guess the easiest thing is to wait for Redding to reopen and go from there. Maybe they'll swap out the die or send me another shell holder. (I don't have any others for this family of cartridges.)
IF shoulder 'bump' really is the issue turning a bit off the shelholder is the easy fix.
contender
Ruger Guru
Check out the local community college that offers a machinist course. Ask the shop teacher if they could cut about .010 off the shell holder. They often look for different projects to teach the students on.
Thanks for the suggestions! I appreciate it.
NikA
Buckeye
Alternative suggestion: get some very fine sandpaper (400+ grit), a very flat surface, and sand .005 or .010 off the top of the shellholder. They're hard, but they're not that hard, and frankly the squareness of the top surface is not critical...
If you choose the above method, get a strip of the finest grit emory cloth you can find, use long strokes, and turn the shelholder 90* every 4-5 strokes. This will help ensure a more even removal of metal. If you have access to a drill press with a chuck large enough to grab the base of the shellholder, you can chuck it and put the abrasive cloth/paper on a solid block for support. Use the lowest chuck speed and light pressure. It may not take very much of this to achieve the desired result.
Thanks, guys. I might just pick up a different brand shell holder locally to see if that helps.
KurtC
Single-Sixer
Always modify the least expensive item. In this case, it's the shell holder.
WV338
355th TFW
I had the same problem, which is the PO Ackley and Nosler chambers aren't the same. I didn't specify which chamber when I ordered my barrel and the dies I bought were for the other. I ordered another set of dies and still was having pressure problems. Then I ordered Redding Competition shell holder set. That solved the problem but I had to load a couple of rounds with them being bumped back at different increments and then to the range to test them. Once I got the right one everything worked perfectly.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Attachments
Blackhawk Convertable
Single-Sixer
Had the same issues with 44-40, 38-40 and 32-20 dies. I sanded off about 1/8 of an inch on each die using a belt sander with a couple of lock rings on the die, front and back. And now they all bump the shoulder back. The aha moment was when I had a virgin piece of brass next to a fired/sized piece and noticed how far back they set the shoulder on factory virgin brass.
Yeah that's what I'd do. I suppose the case holder thing is safer.
Turn your die in far enough to make contact with the shell holder, then lower the ram and turn the die in 1/4 turn more so it actually cams over.
I tried a Lee shell holder today with identical results.
WV338
355th TFW
seasterl, I have 11 pieces of 280AI Nosler once fired brass if you want them.
They are free…
They are free…
Sure, WV338! PM me and I'll be happy to float you some bucks to cover shipping and offset any trouble you incur.
WV338
355th TFW
I don't see where the link is for PM.
