gun lube
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Mandan
Bearcat
I tried the Lucas Gun Oil. Kinda reminded me of Marvel Mystery Oil. I had no problems with it.It worked as good as any average gun oil. I use Ballistol almost exclsively now for cleaning and lubeing all my firearms.
Dan
Dan
boomer1
Single-Sixer
Weapon Shield CLP for me.
resident
Single-Sixer
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One of the easiest arguments to begin is while standing at the automotive motor-oil aisle and watch someone pick up a bottle of their favorite oil and say to them, "Aww...that stuff is no good. You should try (whatever brand you like)."
Hint: There is no-longer any significant difference between mineral-based motor oils that meet the ASCME-required EPA/auto-warranty specifications. All the oils come from oil-wells located all over the world. They are then mixed together in batches, using only approved additives in approved amounts, and placed in name-brand-identifyable bottles designed by the marketing departments and priced anywhere from $1.65 to $$5.99 for what is virtually identical product.
It is not like back in our grandfather's day when Pennsylvania (or "Pennsylvania-grade" ) crude oils were king because of their long-chain molecular structure. The same, in fact better, results are now achieveable thru chemistry and car warranty and EPA rules require them all to meet the exact same performance rules. No deviations allowed (except packaging.) And Lucas has a very active marketing team that has enjoyed success at convincing average guys their very-average product is somehow superior to the majors. :roll:
While differing base-stocks are allowable in synthetics, they all still must meet the minimum standards and they all do. The silliness in which laymen participate and argue such matters is ...well,...silly.
Our guns are not much different. Any lubricant which cuts friction, (any of which have basic cleaning capability) and isolates metal from humidity of the atmosphere will do the job just fine. Designer lubricants are mostly the result of marketing experts recognition that most men have active imaginations. IMO
Hint: There is no-longer any significant difference between mineral-based motor oils that meet the ASCME-required EPA/auto-warranty specifications. All the oils come from oil-wells located all over the world. They are then mixed together in batches, using only approved additives in approved amounts, and placed in name-brand-identifyable bottles designed by the marketing departments and priced anywhere from $1.65 to $$5.99 for what is virtually identical product.
It is not like back in our grandfather's day when Pennsylvania (or "Pennsylvania-grade" ) crude oils were king because of their long-chain molecular structure. The same, in fact better, results are now achieveable thru chemistry and car warranty and EPA rules require them all to meet the exact same performance rules. No deviations allowed (except packaging.) And Lucas has a very active marketing team that has enjoyed success at convincing average guys their very-average product is somehow superior to the majors. :roll:
While differing base-stocks are allowable in synthetics, they all still must meet the minimum standards and they all do. The silliness in which laymen participate and argue such matters is ...well,...silly.
Our guns are not much different. Any lubricant which cuts friction, (any of which have basic cleaning capability) and isolates metal from humidity of the atmosphere will do the job just fine. Designer lubricants are mostly the result of marketing experts recognition that most men have active imaginations. IMO
Fishslayer
Single-Sixer
resident said:
Not sure about this. I have some favorites based how well they spread/penetrate or how well they set up & stay where I put 'em. Depends on the application. But yeah. As far as making parts slide & keeping the rust off...
Having said that, I know a 'smith with a LOT of years experience who swears by WD-40 for just about everything.
resident said:
True... the dino-oil is about the same. Some of them DO have certain different additives and friction modifiers though. For almost everyone, this will change absolutely nothing. Breaking in a brand-new engine though... and having some extra copper (such as the German Castrol oils) might be the difference between tearing it apart in the next 2,000 miles for a bearing failure.
Synthetic bases have very, very large differences in bases, even among the same brand in different weights. They do all meet MINIMUM standards, which are the same minimum standards required for dino oil, as well as being truly "synthetic", or ratio requirements for "synthetic blends".
Lucas oil products are most often used as either fuel additives or gear oils instead of just engine oils. These are two categories which are almost unrestricted when compared to motor oils... and it's where their fame is. Think of a Lucas product... you probably thought of either the tall bottle with the skinny neck for the fuel injector cleaner, or gear oil... if not, you're weird. My favorite part of their marketing is those little wheel-hand-crank thingies for their gear oil additive on the counter of every auto store.
And, I see your point... bashing someone's beloved oil products WILL induce a sense of urgent need to argue. Hence this post. Good call.
resident
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Fishslayer...Having said that said:
heftybeans
Bearcat
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Fishslayer said:
WD-40 is a great solvent, problem is after you've sprayed it on it evaporates very quickly and leaves you with insufficient lubrication. I'm still new to gun oils, but WD-40 can cause problems if not coupled with a good oil/lube.
Yosemite Sam
Hunter
I always like to point to this link when the topic of oils/lubes/CLPs comes up: http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html
I had been on a mission to find a good, cheap, readily available product that I could buy at the auto parts or hardware store, and would be able to keep getting ("trendy" things tend to get replaced on the shelves quickly).
Then I realized it really wasn't that big a deal: It's not like I bathe in the stuff, and if I they stop making it there is always something else out there. So now I just go with what I've come to like: Gunzilla. Vegetable based, no nasty smell (wife is sensitive), dries to a very slippery lube. Seems to protect real well, too.
Weapons Shield and Eezox are right up there, too.
I've heard good things about the Lucas product, but given the number of Lucas "snake oil" products in the Automotive section (stop leak, motor honey, that kind of thing) I wonder if it really is any better. And they certainly think highly of it, as far as the price goes. It's not even a CLP, just an oil.
-- Sam
I had been on a mission to find a good, cheap, readily available product that I could buy at the auto parts or hardware store, and would be able to keep getting ("trendy" things tend to get replaced on the shelves quickly).
Then I realized it really wasn't that big a deal: It's not like I bathe in the stuff, and if I they stop making it there is always something else out there. So now I just go with what I've come to like: Gunzilla. Vegetable based, no nasty smell (wife is sensitive), dries to a very slippery lube. Seems to protect real well, too.
Weapons Shield and Eezox are right up there, too.
I've heard good things about the Lucas product, but given the number of Lucas "snake oil" products in the Automotive section (stop leak, motor honey, that kind of thing) I wonder if it really is any better. And they certainly think highly of it, as far as the price goes. It's not even a CLP, just an oil.
-- Sam
agentadam
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I picked up a bottle of this red Lucas gun oil at Napa last year. They also has a "tool box" oil. As mentioned it probably just some of the base ingredients to there transmission or gear oil placed in a smaller bottle for a higher price. It was a decent amount with an easy pour on/off spout so I got a bottle to throw in my tool box , leave at deer camp, or the fishing cabin for emergencies. It says its good for fishing reels also. It doesn't have any weird smell like ATF. I prefer Mobil-1 for 8$ a quart or BF CLP for 75$ a gallon.(both contain the same base stock synthetic oil)
photofree
Bearcat
Rem Oil Dri-Lube. For carry guns. Spray it on let dry and wipe off the white stuff(it tells you where the spray went) Leaves a silicone lube. Will not foul ammo or ruin your clothes or leather. And it does not have to meet any automotive standards because its for GUNS.
agentadam
Single-Sixer
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Remington Dry-Lube contains Teflon but the Walmarts around here stopped stocking it so I now buy the Liquid Wrench Dry-Lube in the automotive section. It contains the new improved longer lasting ceramic reinforced Teflon called Cerflon at the same ratio as Smith & Wessons Dry-Lube spray.
S&W also has an oil containing Cerflon while Liquid Wrench has white lithium grease with Cerflon.
S&W also has an oil containing Cerflon while Liquid Wrench has white lithium grease with Cerflon.
Yosemite Sam
Hunter
I recently discovered this, too (Liquid Wrench #L-512, Dry Lube with Cerflon). Great stuff.agentadam said:
I'd like to do a corrosion test using some of these products.
-- Sam
guitarpicva
Bearcat
Yosemite Sam said:
I wholeheartedly agree. Gunzilla is amazing. Clean/Lube/Protect in one product. It cleans the nasty crud from the breech of a muzzle-loader with little fuss, and cleaning normal cartridge guns is a breeze with a bore snake. I only use Hoppe's No. 9 to soak my breech plug nowadays. I also noticed that my actions are a bit smoother after cleaning once I started using Gunzilla.
agentadam
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Isn't that another name for Teflon? I use the Liquid Wrench Dry-Lube with the new ceramic reinforced Teflon called Cerflon.
JanZ
Bearcat
cougarjm said:
In chemistry, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) is a synthetic fluoropolymer of tetrafluoroethylene that finds numerous applications. PTFE is most well known by the DuPont brand name Teflon.
PTFE is a fluorocarbon solid, as it is a high-molecular-weight compound consisting wholly of carbon and fluorine. PTFE is hydrophobic: neither water and water-containing substances are wet by PTFE, as fluorocarbons demonstrate mitigated London dispersion forces due to the high electronegativity of fluorine. PTFE has one of the lowest coefficients of friction against any solid.
PTFE is used as a non-stick coating for pans and other cookware. It is very non-reactive, partly because of the strength of carbon–fluorine bonds, and so it is often used in containers and pipework for reactive and corrosive chemicals. Where used as a lubricant, PTFE reduces friction, wear, and energy consumption of machinery.
try this for a change http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Teflon-Bicycle-32-Ounce/dp/B001C65JTI
Flash
Buckeye
I am way outside the box here only because I did some research on a product that was given to me. It's a release agent/lubricant for snow removal equipment. It's not hydroscopic or corrosive and dries to a waxy coating. I've even used it to lube cast bullets and it's quite similar to the coating on 22lr ammunition and commercial wadcutters. I'm not sure if it's still available but I have 4 gallon and it will last me my lifetime. It became one of those things we accidently stumble upon that just fits for the use.
