Bluing Preperation

[BRL]

My "shooter" OM Single Six was purchased with some minor bluing wear around the muzzel, appearently form holster carry.

Now I don't have a problem with bluing wear or discoloration on a firearm...as long as I'm the one that caused it.

I was going to let the situation get worse, and then ship it to somebody for a fresh finish, problem is it's not getting worse because of the way I treat my guns.
In other words, I'll fade away before the rest of the finish does.

My question is: Will hand polishing the metal parts to a mirror shine before sending the gun off have any positive outcome on the final result?

Or would I be wasting my time.

 

[rugerguy]

yes, if you polish it and ONLY polish over any surface issues,ie, "pitting"..and and ALL marks, pitting, etc, has to be removed FIRST before and actual polishing, many shops will NOT gaurantee the outcome for stuff that is polished before hand, they have NO control over what you say you have done....they prefer to get the prep and all done, to do the job "right",,,yes, some are in it ONLY for the $$ , get paid to dip it ....some will give a better price on the gun being taken apart, and YOU put it back together,,,,all must be worked out with the shop/smith before and priced accordingly...the "secret" is in the prep, and that separates what a 'reblue" is, and what a "restoration" should be...one of the reasons we can tell when its a factory job, they do remove the pitting...gotta remember NO gun left ANY factory with pitting UNDER the finish...you SEE pitting, it was a "reblue".

 

[BRL]

Thanks for the reply rugerguy.

At one time I had called Mag-na-port, and they put me in touch with one of their contractors, who gave a shooter OM .357 Flattop a finish like the ones found on Mag-na-port's presentation NM .44 mag. SBH.

It was real NICE!
...and I sold it...

This gun may just go back to the factory, which is why I'm asking, or I may go with what I did to the .357.

However, one side of the top strap is not truly flat (a little wavy), as well as other small imperfections in the frame contures, that I would like to clean up before sending it off for refinishing.

Other than that, I'm keeping this one (finally) so why not go all out?

The light spots on the barrel are appearently from holster use, as is the loading gate.

 

[BRL]

So I called Ruger and asked that if I were to hand polish the Single Six, would the finish come out any brighter, even though they don't offer a high polish option there.

They said that if I do that, it would possibly look like I had a gunsmith work on it, and they might be unwilling to go any further with the gun.

Hey, I don't make policy there, so I guess I'll be going to go elsewhere (most likely Mag-na-port) for a high polish refinish.

In the meantime, I get to polish gun parts! 8)

Wish me luck! :shock:

 

[BRL]

Some progress...I think.

Does anyone know if the hot blue process involves buffing on a polishing wheel in between dipping?

 

[rugerguy]

no Sir, the polishing ,etc is considered the "prep" as well as degreasing, and keeping it from oxidizing BEFORE one gets a chance to actually "dip" ( put the parts in the bluing salts "bath".....)the "dip" (bluing process) is another whole thing and very involved as to temps, baths ,etc....)

 

[BRL]

no Sir, the polishing ,etc is considered the "prep" as well as degreasing, and keeping it from oxidizing BEFORE one gets a chance to actually "dip" ( put the parts in the bluing salts "bath".....)the "dip" (bluing process) is another whole thing and very involved as to temps, baths ,etc....)

Woops!

Well hopefully I did more good than harm.

I told Mag-na-port that I'd try and get it in the ball park, and followed the buffing directions (lines) that were originally on it, by using sandpaper.

It needs to be better prepaired I think, but that's what they have master craftsman (who actually know what they're doing) for.

Thank you for the reply rugerguy, your help is are always appreciated!

 

[BRL]

I decided to leave the polishing of the two new replacement cylinders and any remaining prep work to the pros.

But it was fun and entertaining to get this puppy in the ballpark!

Thanks again rugerguy!

 

[rugerguy]

to be honest with you the cylinders are the easiest to polish.............

by the way, the pictures of what you've done so far look pretty good........... :wink:

I been doing this since the late 1960's......... :roll:

Lee martin and others can build them, me I "save" them and fix 'em up!! 8)

 

[BRL]

to be honest with you the cylinders are the easiest to polish...........I been doing this since the late 1960's......... :roll:

Lee martin and others can build them, me I "save" them and fix 'em up!! 8)

Yes you CAN fix 'em up alright! 8)

I just figured that they know their stuff and might appreciate me not tampering with anything else...I kinda feared removing too much from around the cylinder notches also.

I was hand sanding the barrel, using a twisting motion, somewhat like a washing machine works, and that wasn't cutting it!

Worked better when I rotated it 360 degrees like a corkscrew

Well it's on it's way, and now the wait begins...

 

[rugerguy]

barrels and round parts are best done, with thin, long strips of emery ( garnet, aluminum oxide paper) and like one polishes shoes , a shoe shine.....just go round and round, and start with rougher grit, go finer and finer till you get the smoothness,lustre you want........

 

[BRL]

I left the finish at #1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper, and sent it in that way.

I wanted to finish polish the gun with "MOTHERS" polish, but feared that the chemicals in the polish could effect the bluing process smoehow...Would it have?

I think would have looked AWESOME all polished up!

 

[rugerguy]

no, but the polish may have been a bit too shiny and the issue with "too shiny" is that bluing is not as durable , or long lasting, thats why the matte, satin finishes hold up better, the rough ,beaded finish even better...one reason the parkerized finishes were desired on military weapons, they held the oil on the surface better, longer.........we find they also an "touch up" better, easier than a high gloss finish besides.....
satin, matte finishes also 'hide"?? any imperfections in the metals surface, as "shiny" ( gloss or even a nickel finish ) allows any and all imperfections to stand out............

 

[BRL]

no, but the polish may have been a bit too shiny............

No such thing as too shiny rugerguy! 8)


I've owned other high polish guns, and I take real good care of them.

I know what your saying about durability, but this thing will live it's life being carried in a pistol rug, in a backpack, on a quad, to my various shooting spots in the woods...and that's it.

Besides, I have other guns that I holster for woods carry...with a parkerized tennifer finish at that...HA! :lol:

It's a 10MM AUTO G20 with the grip frame cut down to accept a G29 magizine for compactness. 8)

Thanks again for your help rugerguy!

Sure would have loved to had seen it all buffed out.