Blackhawk Trigger Slap...

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pokey074

Bearcat
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Messages
12
Location
South Dakota
Any cure for trigger slap on a Blackhawk? Flattop .45 Colt/.45 ACP convertible model "stings" or slaps my trigger finger a bit. Transfer bar notch in the hammer not cut quite deep enough?
 

David Bradshaw

Blackhawk
Joined
Sep 11, 2012
Messages
933
pokey074 said:
Any cure for trigger slap on a Blackhawk? Flattop .45 Colt/.45 ACP convertible model "stings" or slaps my trigger finger a bit. Transfer bar notch in the hammer not cut quite deep enough?

Pokey074.... "trigger slap" sounds like the trigger kicks forward at hammer fall. Most often the result of a FUGITIVE TRIGGER JOB. Ruger Sears are designed with REGAIN .engagement angles, for reset. Unskilled work on hammer and or trigger may result in engagement weaker than the trigger spring. The rule applies to single action mode in double as well as single action revolvers. I call try condition FUGITIVE because it cannot last.

Correction sometimes is possible with existing hammer and trigger. More often, the parts must be replaced.

Should the trigger kick forward at hammer fall, the transfer bar may drop below the firing pin, causing a misfire. On a double action revolver, the trigger may catch the falling hammer as the double action fly land on the sear tip of the trigger.
David Bradshaw
 

pokey074

Bearcat
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Messages
12
Location
South Dakota
Nope. Bone stock and I bought it brand new. The hammer falls forward just a bit when you let off the trigger, which is what lead me to believe that the transfer bar notch in the hammer might not be quite deep enough. That or the transfer bar is too thick.
 

Chuck 100 yd

Hunter
Joined
Mar 20, 2010
Messages
3,251
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Ridgefield WA
Transfer bar pinch. The second level on the hammer face is not cut deep enough or the transfer bar could be thinned to remove the pinch. I would deburr the transfer bar first leaving as much thickness as possible. Reassemble and recheck for pinch. It may be gone at that point. Filing or stoning the second step on the hammer face until no more pinch exists would come last. That can be done with the hammer in the gun by protecting any openings from grit using tape or tissue paper. Lube and check again.
 

pokey074

Bearcat
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Messages
12
Location
South Dakota
Awesome, thanks! I'll give it a try.

Chuck 100 yd said:
Transfer bar pinch. The second level on the hammer face is not cut deep enough or the transfer bar could be thinned to remove the pinch. I would deburr the transfer bar first leaving as much thickness as possible. Reassemble and recheck for pinch. It may be gone at that point. Filing or stoning the second step on the hammer face until no more pinch exists would come last. That can be done with the hammer in the gun by protecting any openings from grit using tape or tissue paper. Lube and check again.
 

Hondo44

Hawkeye
Joined
Apr 3, 2009
Messages
7,776
Location
People's Republik of California
I agree with Chuck that you have a transfer bar pinch. However, I have not ever experienced a trigger slap from T bar pinch, just slow trigger return. Not saying it can't happen, but I'm doubtful. The one time I experienced trigger slap in a new gun, the peg on the bottom of the T bar that slips into the trigger, stuck out too far and the hammer base made contact when released and gave the trigger a kick.

As David said, there's an interference of action parts that causes the slap. Doesn't mean the gun has been worked on, could happen on an improperly fitted new gun.

If you can disassemble the gun, you should be able to discern the problem by observation of marks on hammer and sear contact area that shouldn't be where you find them. Otherwise, more likely it needs a free trip home to the mother ship. Call Ruger for free postage back.

If you decide to investigate these may help:

From my "RUGER TIPS", SHORTCUT FOR REMOVING JUST HAMMER and/or PAWL:

Recognize, you do not need to hassle with the PESKY LOADING GATE SPRING, pull the trigger pin, OR trigger/transfer bar JUST to remove the hammer and pawl. Once you remove the grip frame, the hammer pin is the only other part you need to remove. After that, just pull the hammer back and all the way down, then depress the hammer plunger in the base of the hammer with a small tipped screwdriver to clear the trigger extension where the transfer bar connects to it. Let the hammer & pawl fall out. Reinstall the hammer and pawl back in the same way they came out. Push the plunger in by pushing it against the trigger extension just like you did with the tip of the small screwdriver, and the hammer will slip by the trigger extension.

Videos: Good New Model Ruger disassembly:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfOXBa8K8Ow

NM Reassembly (shows hammer plunger assembly too):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zEKDqwkgEs&feature=related
 

pokey074

Bearcat
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Messages
12
Location
South Dakota
Filed on the transfer bar some. "Slap" is reduced but the hammer still falls forward some on releasing the trigger. Before I take too much off I went ahead and ordered a new transfer bar. We'll see if that helps any...
 

Hondo44

Hawkeye
Joined
Apr 3, 2009
Messages
7,776
Location
People's Republik of California
TO TEST HAMMER/TRANSFER BAR FOR MISS-FIRES:
With hammer fully cocked, press on the transfer bar to extend the firing pin and observe how far thru the recoil shield it protrudes. Now keep the trigger pulled back, drop the hammer and observe the firing pin again. If firing pin protrudes the same amount, you’re good to go. If it doesn't protrude the same amount, you need to remove just enough metal from the top face of the hammer nose so the transfer bar is pushed tight against the firing pin and the frame. If you remove too much, the transfer bar will not perform its safety function and will be pinched. Also make sure hammer has no friction or contact with grip frame ears around its base to slow its fall and you may have miss-fires; another potential issue when making hammer changes.

IF TRIGGER DOESN”T RETURN, SAFETY IS NOT WORKING:
If the transfer bar is hanging up under the hammer face, since it's connected to the trigger, it prevents the trigger from returning. The transfer bar is slightly too thick. If both ends of the trigger return spring are connected (under the grips), or even if you have only one leg of the spring connected it should pull down the transfer bar if it's the correct thickness. When this happens, the transfer bar safety function will not work. If the gun were dropped, a live round in the chamber under the hammer will fire.

This is not uncommon however, and it's a very simple fix. File the second step of the hammer face, counting from the top, just a bit until the bar no longer hangs up. Don't take too much off or you'll have miss-fires. If that happens file a little more off the top step of the hammer.

IF YOU HAD TO MODIFY HAMMER NOSE:
At the range, double check the safety function by loading a live round in the next chamber to cycle under the hammer, point down range, cock the hammer, hold with thumb, release the trigger to uncock the hammer, take finger off trigger and release your thumb to let the hammer fall. The round will not fire if safety transfer bar is functioning correctly.
 

pokey074

Bearcat
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Messages
12
Location
South Dakota
It looks like the new transfer bar is going to solve the problem. The old one had a step/ridge at the top that was thicker than the rest. Never noticed it before and my Single Six doesn't have it. New transfer bar is installed and dry firing it, it seems there is no trigger slap. Now I need to get to the range to test it out...
 
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