black-powder in a 223. really.
http://www.ehow.com/how_7339139_remington-_223-reloading-instructions.html :roll:
http://www.ehow.com/how_7339139_remington-_223-reloading-instructions.html :roll:
Make sure you have a Remington reloading book with all of the reloading information.
Lost Sheep said:Question: Do other viewers from other states see the Joe Miller ad or do they see different (regionally targeted) ads?
I think it can be done. The offending article has 196 words.Jimbo357mag said:Lost Sheep said:(edited for focus)
How can you do a how-to article on re-loading in two or three paragraphs? :roll: :roll:
...Jimbo
Lost Sheep said:I will try to do it in 500 words. I expect any number of my fellow denizens of Rugerforum.com could do it in 300. Maybe take an extra 75 if you explain headspace for rimless cartridges.p
(100 words exactly, so far. Which leaves enough room for a little safety warningTake a fired cartridge case.
Remove the spent primer.
The casing expanded when fired; squish it down to the original diameter-resizing.
Squishing it down made it too skinny to accept a new bullet; flare the case mouth just enough to do that.
Stick a new primer in the primer pocket.
Put a carefully measured proper propellant (gunpowder) charge in the case.
Stick a bullet in the mouth of the cartridge and press it into the cartridge to the proper depth.
Squeeze the case mouth to 1) remove the flare and 2) where proper, crimp into the sides of the bullet.
(Then we can expand on the process so even the original author of the article that prompted this thread can understandEvery place the word “proper” is found above, you must consult a loading manual for the proper specification.
Human fingers do not have the strength or precision to do these tasks, so
specialized tools are used. A press provides leverage and keeps things aligned so the ammunition will be straight and round. Forming dies shape the ammunition with precision. Typically, there are three dies and 4 operations:
1) Resizing/depriming,
2) flaring/repriming,
3) -no die required here- charging with propellant/gunpowder and
4) bullet seating/crimping.
Didn't you just say,mikld said:So, a lot of "don't do it" and "the guy is an idiot" posts, but nobody can explain why? Makes one wonder, does anyone know what they're talking about?... :roll:
A black powder .223 might work in a bolt-action rifle but as far as being a factory .223 equivalent, not even close. I don't think black powder pushes light bullets very well. The point of the complaints by members here was the way the author went about saying how to reload. It was much worse than amateur, it was dangerous. This was the same guy that made a gun out of a pipe barrel and had a nail as a firing pin. He was all about 'survival training' and making do with around-the-house stuff. He even had an underground bunker in his backyard with booby traps set around it. I'm glad those articles are gone, but they were head-scratching for sure.Hillbilly Jim said:I dont know why you shouldnt reload bottlenecks with black after all the original 30-30 was reloaded with black powder and the 32 special was even easier to reload. Then look at all the old and odd cartridges of the 1870s and 80s .
The real problem is getting the case full of the right amount of black, this would be a real problem with 223. I routinely load 32-20 with black as well as 38-40 and a few 44-40.
Loading black in a bottleneck is as simple as determining depth of bullet in case then fill with black so when bullet is seated a little compression takes place. Simple.
What weight do you give to the ABSENCE of load data?mikld said:Well, still a lot of talk but no facts...
How I determine what I load has no bearing on my question, and the reference was about I don't get any load data from any forum or person trying to be helpful as 98% of my data comes from published manuals. Which has nothing to do with loading black powder in modern bottle necked cases.
So is it all "gun shop talk" or are there any facts to support the "don't do it!" expert posts?