Which Fire-Lapping Kit?

[DeletedMember275]

I recently traded into a used stainless original Vaquero in .45 Colt. In addition to having undersized chamber throats, this gun suffers from major thread choke in the barrel - over .010", if my measurements are correct. I'm sending the cylinder out for reaming this week, and will firelap the gun once the cylinder is returned. My question is which firelapping kit do I want - NECO, Wheeler, Beartooth, or other? Besides the differences in price, the NECO kit has four different grits of polishing compound, while most of the others seem to only offer three. I'm just wondering if that really makes a difference.

 

[98Redline]

With a Ruger stainless gun the more aggressive grits will get the choke out faster, but you run a slightly higher risk of taking out too much metal.

My SBHH required 100 rounds with the Beartooth single grit compound. While it was a real PITA to clean thoroughly after every cylinder full, I was able to see the steady improvement in things as more shots were fired. It was easy to see when the group sizes stopped shrinking (i.e. stop fire lapping). I am pretty sure I still have enough compound for about 20 more revolvers.

 

[dwayne]

Beware ... the stainless in these Rugers is harder than a witches heart! It's going to take a while to remove 0.010" of thread choke using the usual fire lapping methods -- in my limited experience that's a lot of choke. I fire lapped a S/S Bisley in 45 Colt that took well over 100 shots. I did not do before and after measurements but I'd estimate that it may have had 0.0015" of choke. It is important have the throats correctly sized before you fire lap -- you are doing this in the correct order. I had to do that, too. I opened mine to 0.4525". For fire lapping I used Wheeler compound and started with 220 grit, moved to 320 and then, once I enough material removed, I did the final polish with 600. In my experience, the best way to tell when you are done is, as 98R says, watch your targets -- then follow up by pushing a well lubricated, soft lead slug through the barrel from muzzle to breach. You will be able to feel choke if it is still present. Best of luck!

 

[DeletedMember275]

Thanks, guys. That pretty well coincides with what I've read. Fermin Garza has an article posted online about firelapping a stainless Ruger. He calls Ruger stainless steel barrels harder than a whore's heart! I've got the cylinder ready to mail off for reaming, and then I'll order the firelapping kit. Sounds like I've got some work ahead of me.

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

It`s fun work though. I use Cowboy loads to firelap and enjoy the shootin while
ya get-er-done.

 

[awp101]

Enigma, who is doing the cylinder work? A PM is fine...thanks! :mrgreen:

 

[DeletedMember275]

A member at The Cast Boolit forums, DougGuy, offers cylinder reaming, Taylor Throating, and 11-degree forcing cone cutting services. He has a webpage that's under construction, and a Facebook page here: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Cylinderhonenet/756429174391912


Doug has an excellent reputation for fast, quality work. I sent my cylinder off to him today.

 

[awp101]

Thanks!

 

[muzzleloader]

I recently sent my OM 45 cylinder out to Aquila Custom. Very fast turnaround time and if your cylinder doesn't actually need reaming, they just mail it back.

 

[Iron Mike Golf]

You could also put together your own kit. If you don't cast, get some swaged lead bullets. Get some lapping compound (check auto parts stores or speed shops). 220 and 320 grit should do you fine. A couple of pieces of flat steel (Home Depot or Lowe's). An ingot to weight things down while rolling your bullets helps, too. Leaning on it can get tiring.

One thing I highly recommend is using pin gauges to monitor your progress. The constriction affects bore diameter as well as groove diameter. So, you can drop the gauge down the bore and follow it with a wood dowel and mark the dowel. The clear things and shoot a cylinder of lapping rounds, and remeasure. You'll have an idea of how long you are going to be doing this pretty quickly.

The first gun I firelapped was a stainless Redhawk. 120 rounds using the Beartooth kit. I used a pin gauge and saw the constriction being worked out. Were I to do a stainless Ruger again, I'd go with a coarser grit (220) until the pin gauge was 1/8" from the start of the lands, then switch to 320. I also had a slight constriction under the front sight. Less than at the frame, though.

I used to do this at the range. Now I do it out back or in the garage. 2-3 gr Bullseye and shoot into a bucket of dirt. I cast, so I fish out the slugs and melt them back down.