What's a used GP100 worth?

[annasophia]

I need some advice!

I'm looking at two different 4 inch GP100 revolvers at the moment: one is stainless with the newer one-piece Hogue monogrip and the other is blued with the older rubber Ruger grip with the rosewood side plates. Both of them look to be basically new with zero discernible wear, although they are both technically used. I know the best answer would be to buy them both...but I don't have that kind of disposable cash, so I have to choose. I would like to ask you what a reasonable price would be for each of these revolvers? Also, being as they don't make the blued version any longer (at least to my knowledge), would that be a better buy if they were in the same price range? I have been wanting one of these for a while to play with along side my S&W 10 snub nose and just need some direction. I really like the balance and general carryability of the 4" versions and have passed on a few 6" GP100s in hopes of coming across these.... and now it's decision making time. Thanks!

-Anna Sophia

 

[WESHOOT2]

(I'd buy the carbon steel 4", and have it finished in NP3 for protection. I currently own two stainless 4" versions).

Average retail pricing for used GPs runs from $300 for a beater up to $500 for something special; most I've seen run around $350--400.

 

[ra]

While waiting for my background check to go through last Friday I wandered a large gun store and looked at hundreds of guns through the glass cases, and 2 that caught my eye was a blue 6" GP-100 at $295 and a SS 4" at $375. I don't remember what grips they had, but I remember that the blue one looked new and the SS was in good shape but showed some use, but I didn't handle them. Had I not just spent my mad money I would probally have left with the blue GP-100.
Also Ruger's web site still list a 4.20" and 6" blue GP-100.

http://www.ruger.com/products/gp100/models.html ra

 

[annasophia]

That's good to know that Ruger is still making the GP100 in blue. Thanks for the update on that! I'm not particularly partial to either type (blued vs. stainless) but I do appreciate the lower maint. and less worry and holster wear that stainless tends to give. That said, I like the looks of blue possibly a little more....so basically I'm pretty undecided. The two I have my eye on are priced at $450 for the blued and $500 for the stainless, which appears to be at least $100 more than they are worth..? I'll probably go try to talk them down and see how much wiggle room they have. You never know...maybe they'll find they have lots of wiggle room if I haggle for a package deal of both revolvers! I have had that happen before and come away chuckling and grinning to my self over the screaming deal I just scored on some new toys. Otherwise, I'll probably pass and keep looking.

One more question:

Is it easy to smooth out the trigger on a GP100 to make it more like that on a S&W? I really like the smoothness of S&W's and that's my biggest hang up on the Rugers...that they have a much stiffer trigger pull with kind of a hard, noticeable catch right before they break and fire. I'm wondering if new springs can possibly help this out or do they generally need a gunsmith to work the trigger over? Thanks for the help!

 

[Bear Paw Jack]

Anna, bear in mind that gun prices vary across the country. Having looked over the classifieds here and perused Gun Broker for the last couple of weeks it appears the Stainless ones (which I feel most people think of them as a premium due to ease of maintenance) go for some where in the mid to high $400 range, many cleans ones pushing $500. Blue GP's go for somewhere from $350 to $450 for a firearm in the same shape. Living in the Northwest I would think the Stainless would appeal to you a little more with the rain, if that applies to you. The easiest way to make the Ruger trigger a little lighter, is changing springs which is relatively easy and inexpenseive to do but lots of dry firing will help some also, plus increase your grip strength.

 

[annasophia]

So dry firing doesn't do anything to a Ruger? Is it just because they are really tough or is it design? (possibly having to do with the transfer bar system?) I kind of have always tried to adhere to the "don't dry fire it in general" rule...but possibly I'm way off the mark here with modern guns. I know that double barreled shotguns can break firing pins by dry firing them too much. (happened to my friend on a Browning Citori). I assume you mean that the idea behind dry firing them is basically working the sear/hammer contacts and further wearing them in....? Does it matter if you dry fire Ruger single actions either? What about S&W revolvers? I'm learning a lot here so keep the good input flowing! Thanks!!

--Anna Sophia

 

[jimbo1096]

Dry fire away. With the floating firing pin and the transfer bar you will have no problem. You might put a wear mark on the cylinder of the blued gun a little faster but the dry firing will help smooth out the action if there is any rough spots of the mated internal mechanism.
Personally, I'd prefer the stainless in a carry / rough duty piece. They look better longer with minimal maintenance.

 

[roaddog28]

Hi and welcome. You can't go wrong with a used GP100 4 inch whether blued or stainless. I bought my stainless 4 inch which was hardly used for $400. I have seen them as low as $375. You seem to like the GP100 but you might want to consider a Ruger Security Six or Service Six. The Six series is almost as strong as the GP100 and much stronger than a K frame magnum Smith. They handle much like the K frame. You can pick-up a Security Six for around $300 to $350.

As far as drying firing a Ruger revolver you can't hurt them. The more you dry fire them the better the trigger becomes. I have a Ruger Police Service Six 4 inch made in 1985 and now the trigger is almost as good as my Smiths. A spring kit and a little polishing on the trigger group internals will help also. Will the trigger get as good as a Smith and Wesson. Probably not. They are two different design actions. The Rugers are beefier and will last longer than a Smith. The good thing about a Ruger is you probably will never need to send it back to Ruger to get a tune-up. All Smiths that I have experience will need to be sent back to Smith for a tune-up at some time.

You could do far worse than a Ruger. And the good thing is they are less expense that a Smith.

Good luck,
roaddog28
PS Below are my two Rugers and I would not sell them. I bought and sold Smith & Wesson's but these two Rugers still stay with me. I think that says a lot about the Ruger revolver.

 

[mattsbox99]

I have several S&Ws and Rugers, you really can't go wrong with the GP 100, I have two - a 4" Stainless and 6" blued, along with a 6" blued security six and a whole bunch of single actions and MKI/II/IIIs.

My smiths are mainly autos, but I do have a M28 & M64 that I enjoy quite a bit.