i am brand new to reloading,and i am a new happy owner of a nm 357 black hawk.i have 500 rds of 38 and 500 rds of 357 store bought rounds.i have a lee 50th kit and their 4 piece die set. i picked up a box of 500 count speer 158 grn swc for target/plinking.so what would you guys recomend me to get? a speer,a lee or what ever powder i choose reloading guide?i went back 8 pages in this section of the forums and the posts and data are a little to much info to soak it all in.i want to keep it simple for my self for a while,until i can gain more info on reloading.oh if you want to recomend a powder to me, go right ahead.thanks for all the help
what load data should i go with ,speer or the powder
- Thread starter rob-c
- Start date
AGE Ranger
Single-Sixer
I use manuals for my loads, I have several brand specific and a Lyman manual. Prefer Speer since that's the brand of bullet I use the most.
I load 158 gr swc for a 357, I used CCI500 primers with 4.5 gr of Bullseye. But when loading 38s I use CCI 500 primers with 3 gr of Bullseye.
I just started casting this year and found a 158 gr swc mold at a gun show today and already cast 15 rounds, hope to get them loaded soon.
I load 158 gr swc for a 357, I used CCI500 primers with 4.5 gr of Bullseye. But when loading 38s I use CCI 500 primers with 3 gr of Bullseye.
I just started casting this year and found a 158 gr swc mold at a gun show today and already cast 15 rounds, hope to get them loaded soon.
Precision32
Blackhawk
In theory, each bullet maker does their thing little different then the others. These little differences can make a difference in pressures, the major concern of reloaders. So the safe advise is use the book for the bullet you choose.
Having wrote the above, I have manuals that are not written by either a bullet maker or powder maker.
Clear as mud, right?
Get at least one good manual. Sierra, Speer, Hornady, Lyman and Lee are just some that come to mind. As you are wanting to load 'plinking' ammo, keep your loads in the middle of the tables and after you get some experience and learn more, you can work up hotter loads. Keep in the back of your mind that hot loads are not always the most accurate.
Above all, read and understand what and why you are doing at each step of the way. Reloading is a safe hobby, but like anything, failing to follow the recipe can lead to bad things. Don't be worried about asking questions to forums like this. You will find most people helpful and have much experience they are willing to share.
Having wrote the above, I have manuals that are not written by either a bullet maker or powder maker.
Clear as mud, right?
Get at least one good manual. Sierra, Speer, Hornady, Lyman and Lee are just some that come to mind. As you are wanting to load 'plinking' ammo, keep your loads in the middle of the tables and after you get some experience and learn more, you can work up hotter loads. Keep in the back of your mind that hot loads are not always the most accurate.
Above all, read and understand what and why you are doing at each step of the way. Reloading is a safe hobby, but like anything, failing to follow the recipe can lead to bad things. Don't be worried about asking questions to forums like this. You will find most people helpful and have much experience they are willing to share.
protoolman
Service-Sixer
I started out with a Speer manual and a can of Unique powder. I don't think you could go wrong with either. Bullseye is a little scary for a beginner because its a "hot" burning powder that doesnt take up much room in the case so its easy to get a double charge in there and blow up a gun. I would recommend Unique because a double charge won't leave much room for a bullet to be seated so its obvious. The Speer manual is good because its been out for decades and the updates are based on years of experience. Its a very general manual that covers most normal loads for most guns too.
rob-c said:
It's all in the Speer manual time to buy one, I recomend Win.231 powder for 357, but will not give you data you need to learn to look it up and read it for yourself and deside what you want to start out with, and have a good full understanding of what your doing.
M'BOGO
Buckeye
Echo the above about component differences and component manufacturer manuals. It seems you can go to the websites for the powder manufacturers and they have some data posted, though not with all inclusive information pertaining to components.
The Lee guide is. It is handy for reference for auto disk data, but does not list data for individual slugs, primers, and or cases. It is a compilation of data from different manufacturers, listed by slug type and weight. Just 125 grain .357 jacketed, with min- max- , maybe pressure, with the powder listed below. There is some good information in there, and I do have the 1st and 2nd editions, muddy enough for you?
Personally at the point were I cross reference against several sources, and only shoot lead in pistols, so not many barn burner loads.
Also echo Unique as a good starter powder, and Univeral is about it's twin. They are right next to each other on the burn rate charts. Don't push those slugs hard, they aren't meant to go fast, and are likely to lead if they get warm.
You can overthink all the variables to the point where you drive yourself crazy, if you like. Also be mindful of all the things that are gospel, and that there are different sects, and that different people have their own versions of gospel.
The Lee guide is. It is handy for reference for auto disk data, but does not list data for individual slugs, primers, and or cases. It is a compilation of data from different manufacturers, listed by slug type and weight. Just 125 grain .357 jacketed, with min- max- , maybe pressure, with the powder listed below. There is some good information in there, and I do have the 1st and 2nd editions, muddy enough for you?
Personally at the point were I cross reference against several sources, and only shoot lead in pistols, so not many barn burner loads.
Also echo Unique as a good starter powder, and Univeral is about it's twin. They are right next to each other on the burn rate charts. Don't push those slugs hard, they aren't meant to go fast, and are likely to lead if they get warm.
You can overthink all the variables to the point where you drive yourself crazy, if you like. Also be mindful of all the things that are gospel, and that there are different sects, and that different people have their own versions of gospel.
thanks guys,i was leaning towards the speer manual, and i will go with the unique powder(not as easy to double charge a case)sounds good in my book.my plan is low to middle of the road loading and 100% by the book.there is so much reloading info it makes my brain hurt....again thanks guy.
contender
Ruger Guru
I'll throw in my 0.02 worth.
Get the Speer manuel. Then get another manuel such as Hornady or Lyman. Having more than one manuel, especially the ones with beginners instructions in the front section helps a bunch. Yes, reloading is a hobby & it does have the potential for serious injury. But it has been done for decades safely by the folks who take the time to learn. Learn the basics & as you do it more often, you will learn more & more.
And as noted above, quite often, the hottest loads aren't the most accurate.
Get the Speer manuel. Then get another manuel such as Hornady or Lyman. Having more than one manuel, especially the ones with beginners instructions in the front section helps a bunch. Yes, reloading is a hobby & it does have the potential for serious injury. But it has been done for decades safely by the folks who take the time to learn. Learn the basics & as you do it more often, you will learn more & more.
And as noted above, quite often, the hottest loads aren't the most accurate.
DGW1949
Hawkeye
There's a difference in the suggested loads found for loading with a swagged lead bullet and the suggested loads that you'll find for loading a hard-cast bullet. The lead-bullet loads in a Speer Manual are for their own line of swagged-lead bullets.
Every powder has it's own rather unique boundaries of pressure-range wherein it will perform as designed.
Some loads are more primer-specific than others.
What lube is being used in conjunction with some loads matters. A lot of the loading manuals that I've seen over the years fail to even mention that.
The distance from the base of the bullet and it's crimp-groove varies between bullet makers. One MUST take that into consideration when duplicating an "otherwise identical" load found in their manual. That is because if that distance is greater on the bullet you are using than it is on the bullet used in the manual, it will result in a cartridge that exhibits a higher pressure than the one in the manual does.
The AOL of the cartridge matters. The shorter the AOL with any given combination of components, the higher the pressure of the completed cartridge will be. Sometimes, ya don't have any control over AOL because of where the crimp-groove is. But not all bullets have a crimp-groove.
Some of the above is more critical for some loads and/or cartridges than others, but the point is....paying attention to details will keep you out of trouble.
DGW
Every powder has it's own rather unique boundaries of pressure-range wherein it will perform as designed.
Some loads are more primer-specific than others.
What lube is being used in conjunction with some loads matters. A lot of the loading manuals that I've seen over the years fail to even mention that.
The distance from the base of the bullet and it's crimp-groove varies between bullet makers. One MUST take that into consideration when duplicating an "otherwise identical" load found in their manual. That is because if that distance is greater on the bullet you are using than it is on the bullet used in the manual, it will result in a cartridge that exhibits a higher pressure than the one in the manual does.
The AOL of the cartridge matters. The shorter the AOL with any given combination of components, the higher the pressure of the completed cartridge will be. Sometimes, ya don't have any control over AOL because of where the crimp-groove is. But not all bullets have a crimp-groove.
Some of the above is more critical for some loads and/or cartridges than others, but the point is....paying attention to details will keep you out of trouble.
DGW
Lost Sheep
Single-Sixer
Congratulations and welcome to reloading.rob-c said:
When I introduce a someone to reloading, I now recommend Trail Boss Powder.
The reason for this is that while learning the mechanics of bullet seating, primer seating, crimping, sizing and general handling a voluminous powder is a great convenience. TB is such a powder. You are not going to get tremendous pressures or ultra-high velocities out of it, but it fills the case to the point where if you have a short charge, no charge or double charge you will notice it.
TB was developed just a few years ago for Cowboy Action Shooting and is very forgiving. An asset to the novice. (But NEVER, EVER compress a charge of Trail Boss.)
After you have gone through a bottle of TB and are confident you mastered the mechanics of loading, then move to powders more tailored to your specific desires. Even so, TB is good for plinking, albeit a little more expensive than Unique or Bullseye.
For magnum performance, 2400 is nice. For casual plinking, Bullseye or Unique are my choices. But there are many, many other excellent choices.
Every manual (developed with different hardware in different ballistics labs with different lots of powder) has different load recommendations. All ammo manufacturers (that I know of) adhere to the (voluntary) standards of S.A.M.M.I. (Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers' Institute), but even so, their load recommendations vary, sometimes greatly.
Rule of thumb for Trail Boss if your manual(s) don't recommend a load:
1) Make a mark inside the case where the base of the bullet will be when seated.
2) Fill the case to the mark with Trail Boss powder.
3) Pour the powder into a scale
4) Weigh the powder
5) Take 70% of that weight as your recommended charge.
To make the math simpler, you could repeat steps 2 and 3 seven times, weigh the accumulated powder and divide by 10. You also get an average instead of just one weighing.
Good luck.
According to my older Speer manual (same as your bullets), the bullets you are using call for 5.5 to 6.0 grains of Unique.
If I remember correctly, The Lee dipper that cam with your dies is a .7cc, which should give you about 5.5 grains of Unique when checked on my scale.
I use the Lee dippers alot for target loads and they actually seem more accurate then my Lee perfect Powder measure when using Unique.
Just something to think about, Jeff
If I remember correctly, The Lee dipper that cam with your dies is a .7cc, which should give you about 5.5 grains of Unique when checked on my scale.
I use the Lee dippers alot for target loads and they actually seem more accurate then my Lee perfect Powder measure when using Unique.
Just something to think about, Jeff
Speer bullets = Speer manual. But, a Speer LSWC is a swaged, very soft bullet (unlike a cast bullet) and tends to lead the barrel very easily. Keeping the loads at or near the starting load listed in the Speer manual for this bullet is a good idea...
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