I am more and more finding the Blue Book of Gun Values price guides to be meaningless. Everyone seems to be proud to own things that are less than great, and want top dollar. Anyway, I found a 1973 Single Six, 9 1/2" barrel, missing the original grips, and about, according to the Blue Book, 60%- 70%, at best. Needs a new hammer, as I suspect the "click" is broken off. No extra cylinder, box, etc. $600 firm, because its old. Any thoughts/advice? Thanks.
Value of a Single Six 9 1/2"
- Thread starter SBHRSSSSS
- Start date
Help Support Ruger Forum:
Flatbolt3006
Bearcat
I am at worthless for that gun
Yes it has parts you could sell. But you have to do the work to sell them.
Yes it has parts you could sell. But you have to do the work to sell them.
contender
Ruger Guru
A 1973 Single-Six should be a New Model. Not "old" to most of us. Just the first year production of the NM. If it needs a hammer,, or another part,, then deduct about $50 from the value. Original grips,, another $35-$45. Depending upon the grips on it,, maybe sell them for ???
Condition,, at 60%-70%,, with the description above,, at best,, a $200 gun.
Condition,, at 60%-70%,, with the description above,, at best,, a $200 gun.
I agree with 'Flatop44', if the book is used "correctly" ,it is a very GOOD value, yes ,obviously when things are "broke,parts missing or swapped around" ,the Blue Book does NOT cover that in any way, just the "FACTS" of the condition of any "original" variation......the pictures in front of the Blue Book gives examples of the various percentages of conditions of any guns "original" finish,,,,,,,,,,others wise it is a"sum of the total of the parts" 8) :roll: :wink:
Exactly. If it were in working condition at 60-70% it might be a $200 gun. Since it's "broken" and without its extra cylinder or original grips it's purely a "what can I get for it" gun. Kinda depends on how bad you want to rescue an old-timer. RENE puts a 98% version of your gun at $545, but yours needs a lotta help.
I sympathize with your position, but original internals can run you $100 and the cylinder and grips can run $100 and $50, respectively. Gonna take a lotta love to justify this purchase.
I sympathize with your position, but original internals can run you $100 and the cylinder and grips can run $100 and $50, respectively. Gonna take a lotta love to justify this purchase.
It is a parts gun until you or another puts it back into a respectable "type" gun of the 9 1/2' variety. Cost may be between 150 and 250......seasoned vets like me have the parts that owe us next to nothing. Younger rascals will probably pass for the obvious parts/fix reason(s) and seek a better condition gun for the net of 475 to 600. These are my thought factors on this matter. Others opinions may vary..........Glad you asked. :wink: 8)
All, thanks for your replies.
To clarify a couple of things;
The Book- I think the book has value. What I was trying to articulate is that in my area, many guns are priced higher than the Book indicates, for their condition. Hence, the Book appears meaningless. This Single Six being one example. Many guns are priced at 95-100%, though their condition is only 60-70%, maybe 80%. Another thing is often, when discussing prices, they will turn on the computer and and determine the price based a popular on-line dealer/seller. Condition seems to mean nothing.
The Repairs- I would have no problem purchasing original grips, a replacement hammer. Would I re-blue it? Not likely.
Get a Letter? Probably, for fun/interest. If it was a convertible, and needed a cylinder, I have several. For me it would be a shooter, and part of my goal to have an OM Single Six in each barrel length.
Its simply frustrating to see something that is firmly and outrageously priced. And so the search continues.
To clarify a couple of things;
The Book- I think the book has value. What I was trying to articulate is that in my area, many guns are priced higher than the Book indicates, for their condition. Hence, the Book appears meaningless. This Single Six being one example. Many guns are priced at 95-100%, though their condition is only 60-70%, maybe 80%. Another thing is often, when discussing prices, they will turn on the computer and and determine the price based a popular on-line dealer/seller. Condition seems to mean nothing.
The Repairs- I would have no problem purchasing original grips, a replacement hammer. Would I re-blue it? Not likely.
Get a Letter? Probably, for fun/interest. If it was a convertible, and needed a cylinder, I have several. For me it would be a shooter, and part of my goal to have an OM Single Six in each barrel length.
Its simply frustrating to see something that is firmly and outrageously priced. And so the search continues.
contender
Ruger Guru
Quite often,, MANY people do not understand grading,, nor do they even look at the Blue Book. They see a similar gun go for $600 and automatically HOPE they can get that much for it.
I went to an auction a few years back,, that had quite a few guns. In the auctioneer's web page info,, they claimed to be quite knowledgeable about guns with "over 20 years experience." When I asked about a certain gun and the grading,, according to the NRA & the Blue Book,, they asked me; "What's the Blue Book?
I then asked him where he got his estimates of the starting price. I got the reply; "One of my guys is a FFL & does online research." I replied he must think all his guns are rare, NIB & the most collectable version because of his starting prices.
To the truly knowledgeable people about guns small differences can make a huge difference. If that Single-Six just had a "S" stamped on the main frame in front of the trigger guard,, it would change the whole value thing. And that's just a minor difference used for a reference. Sadly,, too many folks FAIL to truly study a product before they try to sell.
I went to an auction a few years back,, that had quite a few guns. In the auctioneer's web page info,, they claimed to be quite knowledgeable about guns with "over 20 years experience." When I asked about a certain gun and the grading,, according to the NRA & the Blue Book,, they asked me; "What's the Blue Book?
I then asked him where he got his estimates of the starting price. I got the reply; "One of my guys is a FFL & does online research." I replied he must think all his guns are rare, NIB & the most collectable version because of his starting prices.
To the truly knowledgeable people about guns small differences can make a huge difference. If that Single-Six just had a "S" stamped on the main frame in front of the trigger guard,, it would change the whole value thing. And that's just a minor difference used for a reference. Sadly,, too many folks FAIL to truly study a product before they try to sell.
. . . and yet some of us will overpay if we see an Old Model variant we don't have, just because.
In the end it all boils down to how serious your "gotta have it" factor is. Someone has to rescue the Oldtimers.
BTDT
:wink:
In the end it all boils down to how serious your "gotta have it" factor is. Someone has to rescue the Oldtimers.
BTDT
:wink:
contender
Ruger Guru
Guilty as charged! 
RSIno1
Hunter
A big problem is the subjective condition %. Seller is always higher in opinion than buyer. Even a new in the box gun can be less than 100% depending on how handled and stored. Next month we have to go through another year of Barrett Jackson upping the asking price for all collector cars. Everyone will raise the price of their rusted out hulk because one "just like it" sold for $200,000 never mind that car had 100s of hours of talented workers pouring over it and $15-20,000 in paint.
If it's yours, it's junk.
If it's mine, it's verrrry rare and collectible.
:wink: :lol: :lol: :wink:
If it's mine, it's verrrry rare and collectible.
:wink: :lol: :lol: :wink:
I love it when anyone selling a gun goes to their smart phone or ipad and tell us just what they are "On line" and we must ask them to look at "finished auctions/sales" NOT what they are asking ,,,you see the same old guns over and over and over, relisted for "stupid" money ,hoping they catch the ONE person who has "the pucker factor" just how bad do they have to have it or really need it..........just two shows back I was sent to look at a gun , seller had on the table wanted "on line/book" price and I looked it over, was pretty nice, gave him my .02 cents, asked "why so much?" he said "On line...." told him to put it "On line", started to walk away and he asked what is worth to me, I told him 1/3rd of his price, and he took it..... 8) :roll: :wink:
But Dan, it was a verrrry rare 1937 Ruger semi-auto assault revolver with the optional laser-actuated bayonet installation!!!
:wink: :wink: :wink:
:wink: :wink: :wink:
57springer
Buckeye
The old saying ........... " money talks and BS walks "
Here's something to watch, and it doesn't need parts.
Five hundred bucks, 3 days left, no bidders yet.
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/848156871#carousel-modal-view-item
Early drift sight gun. I'm tempted to buy it just for the grips. :shock:
Five hundred bucks, 3 days left, no bidders yet.
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/848156871#carousel-modal-view-item
Early drift sight gun. I'm tempted to buy it just for the grips. :shock:
Thanks Glassman. Unfortunately, I don't by on line. Maybe I should.
I went back and looked at it again. The guy claimed the gun was from the 50's. I said that I looked up the Ser#, its a 1972 gun. He said, "Well, its still pretty old". I pointed out its problems, and he came down to $500. I rolled my eyes, said thanks, and walked away. And no, I did not see an S or D on it. Maybe I'll go back in a month.
A side question for you knowledgeable collectors; Do you bring certain tools, and disassemble the gun; i.e. remove the grips, grip frame, to find markings and other information? Thanks for your advice and hints.
I went back and looked at it again. The guy claimed the gun was from the 50's. I said that I looked up the Ser#, its a 1972 gun. He said, "Well, its still pretty old". I pointed out its problems, and he came down to $500. I rolled my eyes, said thanks, and walked away. And no, I did not see an S or D on it. Maybe I'll go back in a month.
A side question for you knowledgeable collectors; Do you bring certain tools, and disassemble the gun; i.e. remove the grips, grip frame, to find markings and other information? Thanks for your advice and hints.
I don't know many folks who'd allow that. A few might allow you to pull the grips off to check for XR3 or XR3RED confirmation.
