Tru-Oil - Number Of Coats

[langenc]

For a tac rag I just use the commercial product available in the paint isle at Tru-Vaule.

 

[caryc]

Ale-8(1),

You pretty much nailed it for working with medallions. Just a couple quick hints here.

I took a 5/8" spade bit and drilled a hole about an inch from the edge of a paper back book. It makes a good base for the grip while knocking out the medallion.

If you take a small piece of aluminum and drill a hole for the medallion post it makes it easy to use a file to clean up the post as you can see in the pic below.

It also help to have a pair of parallel jaw smooth pliers in case the post gets out of round from the original staking.

 

[Ale-8(1)]

Cary, I like that.

I also gotta admit that occasionally I sorta "un-stake" the stem with a pair of pliers . . . gently, of course.

 

[Snake45]

I apply Tru-Oil with my fingers, very light coats, firmly rubbed until the oil just begins to feel tacky and warm, and allow them to dry for "approximately" 24 hours or until they are dry to the touch. I then steel-wool them until "satiny smooth" and repeat the Tru-Oil application.

I do this, too, exactly. But I steel wool all coats, even the final one. I'm not going for any kind of "gloss," more like a "glow" from the wood.

 

[Wheelgunner]

I have heard that after your last coat of Tru Oil it still takes about 10 days for it to fully cure and harden. I don't do anything to my grips for at least three full days (72 hrs) after the last coat. I let them sit even longer if I'm not in a hurry to get them out to a customer.

caryc,

Just how hard will Tru-Oil get? Will it end up comparable to a varnish or polyethylene product?

Wheelgunner

 

[langenc]

Hard as varnish-sure. How long??

 

[Wheelgunner]

I rub the oil into the wood until it begins to get warmish, as mentioned.

I don't believe you can wait too long for the oil to dry. It's better IMHO to have it "really dry" than "almost dry". There's no point in hurrying the process at the hobby level. Let it dry.

Removing the medallions . . . yeah, nervous-making the first couple of times. I had visions of either breaking the medallions or splitting out the wood surrounding the medallion, or both. I fold up a soft cloth several thicknesses, like and inch and a half or more, so I have a cushioned surface to work on, but not a real soft surface. I lay the grip panel medallion side down on the pile of cloth. I use a punch that is just barely smaller than the end of the little stem on the back of the medallion and rap it smartly with a small hammer. Smartly, but not too much. It may take several swats to get the medallion out. Don't overdo it, and don't drive the punch clear thru the hole in the wood or you may "enlarge" the hole, or worse.

That's how I have done several sets. I do not claim it's the "right way" to do it, but it has worked for me so far. If you break something doing it this way, I don't even know you. OK?

As far as re-installing the medallions goes, I just carefully align them with the grip panel and press them into the hole with my thumb. Enough oil has built up around the edge of the hole to allow for a good "press fit". Make sure there's no accumulation of oil or sanding dust or other crap down in the bottom of the large hole that might keep the medallion from seating all the way. I suppose if you weren't careful you could break the panel doing this, but I lay the panel on my bench with the medallion over a small hole that allows the little stem on the medallion to poke thru the panel if it wants to. I also slightly file the worst of the "staking" off the stem's diameter so it doesn't fight me in the process. I do not strike the medallion with anything.

So far, I have not seen any need of glue on the reinstalled medallions.

I have considered rigging a way to use my reloading press to remove/install the medallions, but it has so much mechanical advantage I'm afraid it would easily break something. Besides, my crude method works . . . so far . . . knock on wood.

I wouldn't say the medallions are exactly "soft" but they're awfully small and I'm not sure what they are made of. Aluminum, perhaps?

"Disclaimer disavowing any responsibility for any damage to grip panels, medallions, or bodily appendages when attempting to follow the above discourse."

Ale-8(1),

I think that you must have more nerve than I do. The medallion removal might be a little too challenging for my mind. It is great that it is working so well for you.

Thanks

Wheelgunner

 

[Wheelgunner]

For a tac rag I just use the commercial product available in the paint isle at Tru-Vaule.

langenc,

Thanks, I'll see what I can find at my local hardware. All of our True Value Hardwares disappeared years ago.

Wheelgunner

 

[Wheelgunner]

Ale-8(1),

You pretty much nailed it for working with medallions. Just a couple quick hints here.

I took a 5/8" spade bit and drilled a hole about an inch from the edge of a paper back book. It makes a good base for the grip while knocking out the medallion.

If you take a small piece of aluminum and drill a hole for the medallion post it makes it easy to use a file to clean up the post as you can see in the pic below.

It also help to have a pair of parallel jaw smooth pliers in case the post gets out of round from the original staking.

caryc,

Thanks Cary, I have seen that trick used on something before, but I totally forgot about it. This getting old thing can really suck at times. :x

Using the paperback book for a base is also a really good idea.

Wheelgunner

 

[Wheelgunner]

I apply Tru-Oil with my fingers, very light coats, firmly rubbed until the oil just begins to feel tacky and warm, and allow them to dry for "approximately" 24 hours or until they are dry to the touch. I then steel-wool them until "satiny smooth" and repeat the Tru-Oil application.

I do this, too, exactly. But I steel wool all coats, even the final one. I'm not going for any kind of "gloss," more like a "glow" from the wood.

Snake45,

I'm not really interested in a high gloss finish either. A smooth satiny finish will suit me fine.

Now, all I need is time to get back to my gunstock. I had to rip all of the shingles and flake board off of my shed roof and this re-roofing project is using up my time and body.

Wheelgunner

 

[Wheelgunner]

Hard as varnish-sure. How long??

langenc,

I guess that this product isn't really oil in the real sense of the word.

Wheelgunner

 

[Ale-8(1)]

I am under the impression that Tru-Oil is a variant of linseed oil with the addition of "driers".

Also, I admit I tried removing medallions from some New Model panels before I tried it with any Old Model "Blackbirds".

 

[Cracker-American]

I am not in y'alls league but I have been using Tru Oil for about forty years. I can only add;

Cure is different than dry. It is important for the oil to cure and this takes several days depending on humidity.

Green scotchbrite pads are the nuts.

A wood sanding block covered with felt makes a great applicator for rottenstone (sp). Put the rottenstone in a pan or box and dampen the felt before dipping it in the rottenstone. Then rub the cured finish in the direction of the grain. This and a coat of Johnsons paste wax will give you that subtle deep look so many of us appreciate.

I currently use, daily, a 10 22 that I put a Tru Oil finish on in 1969. It does not look new but it has held up real well through the years.

A lot of good knowledge here. Thank you all for that.

 

[langenc]

For a tac rag I just use the commercial product available in the paint isle at Tru-Vaule.

langenc,

Thanks, I'll see what I can find at my local hardware. All of our True Value Hardwares disappeared years ago.

Wheelgunner[/quot

Any big box or mom & pop hardware will have a tac rag.

 

[Pinecone]

Wheelgunner, Ale-8(1) nailed it. Tru-Oil is oil based with driers. How hard is it? Well that is a good question. I never have concerned myself with how hard a wood finish product is. What I look for, is a finish that will take normal gun handling under "normal" field conditions and not "scuff" up too easily. Also I look for a finish that will "bead" water to a certain extent, not counting torential downpours! Most products like Tru-Oil, Polyurethanes, Varnish, etc. will do this. None of these products will prevent dents in the wood or excessive abuse, but then that goes without saying...................................Dick :wink:

 

[Wheelgunner]

I am under the impression that Tru-Oil is a variant of linseed oil with the addition of "driers".

Also, I admit I tried removing medallions from some New Model panels before I tried it with any Old Model "Blackbirds".

Ale-8(1),

My impression of Tru-Oil is the same as yours. I just never considered it being a product that would harden like a varnish or polyethylene.

I sure give you credit for being able to successfully remove any of the Ruger medallions.

Wheelgunner

 

[Wheelgunner]

I am not in y'alls league but I have been using Tru Oil for about forty years. I can only add;

Cure is different than dry. It is important for the oil to cure and this takes several days depending on humidity.

Green scotchbrite pads are the nuts.

A wood sanding block covered with felt makes a great applicator for rottenstone (sp). Put the rottenstone in a pan or box and dampen the felt before dipping it in the rottenstone. Then rub the cured finish in the direction of the grain. This and a coat of Johnsons paste wax will give you that subtle deep look so many of us appreciate.

I currently use, daily, a 10 22 that I put a Tru Oil finish on in 1969. It does not look new but it has held up real well through the years.

A lot of good knowledge here. Thank you all for that.

Cracker-American,

Thanks for joining in on this discussion. I appreciate your input.

I am amazed that you have a daily use rifle/carbine that has had a Tru-Oil finish that has stood up since 1969. Great job!

Wheelgunner

 

[Wheelgunner]

For a tac rag I just use the commercial product available in the paint isle at Tru-Vaule.

langenc,

Thanks, I'll see what I can find at my local hardware. All of our True Value Hardwares disappeared years ago.

Wheelgunner[/quot

Any big box or mom & pop hardware will have a tac rag.

langenc,

Thanks, I'm heading into the city tomorrow and I will see what is available.

Wheelgunner

 

[Wheelgunner]

Wheelgunner, Ale-8(1) nailed it. Tru-Oil is oil based with driers. How hard is it? Well that is a good question. I never have concerned myself with how hard a wood finish product is. What I look for, is a finish that will take normal gun handling under "normal" field conditions and not "scuff" up too easily. Also I look for a finish that will "bead" water to a certain extent, not counting torential downpoors! Most products like Tru-Oil, Polyurethanes, Varnish, etc. will do this. None of these products will prevent dents in the wood or excessive abuse, but then that goes without saying...................................Dick :wink:

Pinecone,

We are looking for the same kind of protection for our firearms. My question about the hardness of true oil was aimed mostly at its chip resistance. Many of the varnishes and urathanes used on firearms will chip quite easily. Due to its penetrating qualities, I'm hoping that Tru-Oil is a more durable product.

Wheelgunner

 

[caryc]

I am under the impression that Tru-Oil is a variant of linseed oil with the addition of "driers".

Also, I admit I tried removing medallions from some New Model panels before I tried it with any Old Model "Blackbirds".

Ale-8(1),

My impression of Tru-Oil is the same as yours. I just never considered it being a product that would harden like a varnish or polyethylene.

I sure give you credit for being able to successfully remove any of the Ruger medallions.

Wheelgunner

Removing Ruger medallions is not hard at all. Since they are staked in and not glued. The stakes are not all that big and the wood gives way easily to let them come out.

Before Ruger started selling the old black eagles again, I used to buy Mark 11 grips from Numrich just for the medallions. Most of those just took one tap with a brass drift pin and a tack hammer and the medallion was out. I've removed them from the plow handle type grips also and never had any trouble.

The only problem removing a Ruger medallion would be in their faux ivory grips. That stuff doesn't want to give way for the stakes and sometimes the grip will break.