trigger guard won't blue??

[boomer92266]

i have a ruger service six, the bottom of the trigger guard is nearly bare of bluing. i degreased cleaned, heated and degreased again. heated the guard and have tried oxpho blue, g96 cream, birchwood casey pen and paste. none will stay at all, the birchwood paste and pen hold better than the others but won't darken hardly at all. the g96 will blacken the guard real good but when i rinse with water it comes off same with oxpho. what doesn't come off in the water comes off when i oil it. the pen and paste leave a very minor dull finish but nothing seems to be working. i called birchwood casey and g96, they said it may be because the trigger guard was a casting or because since it is a casting the metal inside isn't the same through the whole guard. i'm stumped, can anyone help? i don't need it to match, just cover the bare metal. i thought cera coat but no one near me can blast it so it will stick good. thanks for any help.

 

[rugerguy]

try 44-40 cold blue.....OR take the guard off and have a shop polish and reblue it "properly".....

 

[boomer92266]

try 44-40 cold blue.....OR take the guard off and have a shop polish and reblue it "properly".....

no shops near me that does that, i live in kentucky. does anyone know where i can send it close to me, its my carry gun and don't want to be without it too long. thanks

 

[mohavesam]

It is a non-serialed part, so you can remove it, mask/plug the screw holes and take it to any machine shop nearby. Even a muffler shop may have a blast cabinet. If you are cordial and know how to ask, it is about a two-minute job to lightly blast the area and hand it back to you. I recommend used media or plastic beads. Easy does it.

 

[Hondo44]

What vintage is your gun? Ruger has been sneaking in stainless for some parts and bluing them. But cold blue won't to it. Get it blued by someone who blues stainless steel like:

George Roghaar, Boca Raton, Florida
http://gunblue.homestead.com/
http://gunblue.homestead.com/Stainless.html

 

[boomer92266]

It is a non-serialed part, so you can remove it, mask/plug the screw holes and take it to any machine shop nearby. Even a muffler shop may have a blast cabinet. If you are cordial and know how to ask, it is about a two-minute job to lightly blast the area and hand it back to you. I recommend used media or plastic beads. Easy does it.

i called all the machine shops near me which is one and they don't do that. i live in a very rural area, i found one that is 75 miles away which is 150 round trip but that's just too far. i hope i don't have to sell it,with two new holsters one a iwb and one a owb and i even have all the extra parts, even a cylinder and crane that fits perfect, so i'll keep trying to blue it. this being my only gun i don't want to be without it for more than a few days, i'm gonna keep trying today, if it doesn't work then it's gonna find a new home. if i sell it i'm gonna buy two cheaper guns so i'll have a backup if anything happens to the first, don't want to go through this again. thanks everyone for your help.

 

[BIgMuddy]

Boomer

You're going to get rid of the gun because of some blue wear?

The trigger guard is removable so you can send just that part to someone to get it done professionally. Probably would be gone more than a couple days though.

If you use the gun much it will get more wear on it. Doesn't hurt the function at all.

If you decide to sell I may be interested.

Dan

 

[LMLarsen]

Or you could have the whole revolver refinished in Cerakote or Ionbond. Both their satin blacks look great.

 

[tuner]

You might want to try something like a cold rust blue which is very durable. Brownell's sells several; I have used the Herters formula which Brownell's sells with excellent results. The only thing you will need to do it is a small pan to boil the part in, the solution, some fine steel wool and water. I found that distilled water (available at most grocery stores) works much better if your water has a lot of minerals. Complete instructions comes with the solution; you will have to repeat the process several times but it provides a very durable finish and gives an excellent color. If as another poster said the part is stainless I do not think it will work.

 

[boomer92266]

the gun is a 1985 model service six, the frame other than the guard is around 90% good with only the barrel tip wore a little. i had my neighbor to duracoat the cylinder as it had big bare spots of bluing loss. i don't mind bluing wear if it isn't large spots but the bottom of the guard is almost all gone of bluing and i just would like it dulled enough to protect it and stop the shine. thanks

 

[ginzo]

I had great luck with the Birchwood Casey cold blue kit around $20.00

You can tell it's not original blued, but it looks great! I followed the instructions Exactly. But found if I heated the metal after rinse and used 0000 steel wool, then coated with rem oil and re-heated (hair dryer) used 0000 steel wool again, it was way more uniform.

Chuck

 

[NorEaster]

What vintage is your gun? Ruger has been sneaking in stainless for some parts and bluing them. But cold blue won't to it. Get it blued by someone who blues stainless steel like:

George Roghaar, Boca Raton, Florida
http://gunblue.homestead.com/
http://gunblue.homestead.com/Stainless.html

+1
George can do it

 

[boomer92266]

i kept trying to blue it and finally gave up. i could get one coat to stick but that was it and it came off way too easy. so i decided i would try dupli color caliper paint and it worked. i tested it today and it is holding up great, very tough. here is the before and after pic.
BEFORE AS YOU CAN SEE THE GUARD IS VERY BARE.

THIS IS THE DUPLI COLOR PAINT, CLOSE TO BEING A PERFECT MATCH

 

[ginzo]

That worked out VERY nice. Never heard of duplicolor paint. What color do they call that? Going to store that in the memory bank for future reference!

 

[boomer92266]

That worked out VERY nice. Never heard of duplicolor paint. What color do they call that? Going to store that in the memory bank for future reference!

it's dupli-color caliper paint with ceramic, #BCP105 matte black. the trick is to just put it on light and thin coats and it will look real close to bluing. i used only two light coats as i was only doing the bottom of the guard. i called dupli color and they recommended the caliper paint. said it had more ceramic than the engine paint to protect it from chipping and cracking. i love it gonna keep it around for this old gun, who knows one day i may do the whole thing. remember you do have to bake it at 200 degrees for one hour to cure it. thanks