Speed-Six Action locking up (HELP) UPDATE

[zac0419]

This question might seemed scatter brained with details, I'm just trying to give all info that might be pertinent. I don't know if this belongs in the smithing forum please feel free to move it.

My buddy has a Nice speed six (cleaned gun, 2 3/4, .357, rd butt) that shot great for about 75 rds (38sp +P W wht box) then started locking the action. (could start to DA pull trigger but resistance prohibited from pulling it further than half a cm or so, could release trigger fully but still locked up and could not even cock it for SA). We unloaded it and tried to duplicate problem, it would pull fine 4-5 times then same thing. It would happen unloaded or loaded. Sometimes after a few pulls, sometimes first pull. We had a lot of guns to shoot so we left it until we got home.

After we got it home and cleaned it, it seemed to be working fine. If you don't allow the trigger to release past the very last click and try to pull trigger again this is exactly what the binding felt like at the range. I think it might be the original problem but after 200 snapcaps it hasn't happened again on it's own. Maybe it wasn't rebounding the trigger fully?

Any ideas on what to look at as the culprit? It seems to be working but I don't have a lot of faith in the idea that it's fixed, we didn't do anything to fix it!!

Thanks

 

[Sal1950]

Was possibly dirt/debris under the ejector star, that can cause binding like you describe. You "fixed" it when you cleaned it. But check again that you've cleaned it well under the star before the next range session.
But could also be that the trigger wasn't fully resetting like you say. Did you remove the trigger group and clean it real good inside?
This is minimally a 30 year old gun and I have no idea when the last time it had a full detail cleaning. You might also consider getting a spring kit from Wolff and replacing everything just to freshen it up.
Sal

 

[stantheman86]

This has happened to me with one Service Six in particular.......someone must have monkeyed with the gun at some point and then dropped in a different bolt stop and hand........and so the part weren't fitted to the gun and it "gagged". I had to track down new parts and then keep swapping them out until I found something that worked.

 

[Harry C.]

Hello Mr. 0419,

First cogratulate your friend for havinng such a fine firearm. I carried one, a Security Six, every day for 14 years. The rifling is gone in the first several inches of the barrel!

I found myself doing a three step function check every time I first picked up the revolver:

1. Check under the extractor star for oil or debris. Oil attracts debris. You want the underside of the extractor clean and DRY. If debris (dust, unburnt powder) builds up under the extractor star it will first make it very difficult to rotate the cylinder and then lock it up all together.

2. Ensure that the extractor rod is screwed in tightly. Note that it is reverse threaded. If the extractor rod backs out even a little bit it will lock up the action. Lock tite is a very good thing to apply here.

3. Ensure you have no high primers. The way I checked was to pull the hammer back just a bit and rotate the cylinder a full rotation. You can feel if a primer is high as it will not rotate freely. DO THIS POINTING THE WEAPON IN A SAFE DIRECTION. I literally lived with this revolver. If your friend is not very familiar with the revolver it is likely MUCH better to just feel the primers to see if they are high.

These revolvers are virtually indestructable. To be 100% reliable they need to be DRY, have the extractor rod lock tited into place, and have ammo within specs. At one time or another I had trouble with all three of these. That is why I automatically check them each time I pick it up. It takes just a very few seconds.

As a aside, that tightening of the action is exactly why each of my revolvers has a full hammer. If things break bad and your cylinder starts to bind up you can get a few shots out by shooting single action. With this revolver you get better mechanical advantage to cycle the cylinder by cocking the hammer than by trying to move it double action.

Enjoy this fine revolver. Stay safe. Always have it pointed in a safe direction. Never put your finger inside the trigger guard until you are ready to shoot. It is always loaded. As an aside if you find yourself in the difficult spot of needing to whack someone with it always have your index finger flat along the outside of the trigger guard and your thumb behind the hammer so it can't inadvertantly cock. This will reduce the risk of an accidental discharge should you need to use this fine revolver as a blunt instrument.

Respectfully,
Harry C.

 

[zac0419]

Thanks for the thoughts, I'll check to make sure the star is tight. It was clean, might have been oiled, but I'll make sure it is dry before the next trip. It could be a while before me and my buddy get back out. I just wanted to get all the things looked at before going again.

Thanks again for the info.

 

[zac0419]

SO back to the range with a clean dry gun. I double checked the extractor star and made sure there was no oil to be found. Gun fired fine for about 15 rounds then started to hang up. I physically tried to push the trigger forward to see if it wasn't setting but it was fine. We unloaded, loaded, plunged the star a few times, ... no one thing helped sometimes it would work, next time not. These guns are too new to me for me to understand the action to give a better description. Almost seems like it only happens when the gun is warm. Here at home again it seems to function fine.

I called Ruger the wanted me to check the play in the cylinder and it seemed ok. They said they would take a look at it if I shipped it in to them. I don't really want to pay $60 to ship it for them to tell me I have to pay more to have it fixed. No telling if it's covered by them.

Any ideas? Should I just find a basic GSmith locally to look at it?

I'm at a loss, this is the first Ruger I've ever had problems with and It's a like new older gun.

 

[Sal1950]

Just a thought but what kind of ammo are you shooting? Are you sure you're not getting some bullet jump with your ammo? Bullet jump occurs when the bullets move forward in the case from the recoil of the fired rounds. Bullet may then protrude very slightly from the front of the cylinder, locking up the action as it tries to turn.
Sal

 

[zac0419]

It was 38+P the other day and 38 special PMC today. I should have stated this earlier. I don't think the recoil was the problem. I just fired w snap caps 100 or so times with no problems. When the gun was warm from shooting, it was locking up with the snap caps, loaded, and empty. I haven't cleaned it since it was locking. All I did was let it cool down and drive home, now it seems fine. I'd hate for Ruger to fire it a couple of times and ship it back to me.

 

[hittman]

Sounds like a trip to a local smith is in order unless you try yet another brand of ammo. I had something similar happen once on my Speed or Service Six and think it was the ammo.

 

[Sal1950]

It was 38+P the other day and 38 special PMC today. I should have stated this earlier. I don't think the recoil was the problem. I just fired w snap caps 100 or so times with no problems. When the gun was warm from shooting, it was locking up with the snap caps, loaded, and empty. I haven't cleaned it since it was locking. All I did was let it cool down and drive home, now it seems fine. I'd hate for Ruger to fire it a couple of times and ship it back to me.

OK, so it does sound like there is a problem with the guns timing that only shows up when parts expand do to heat. Either it should got to Ruger or have a gunsmith you trust look at it..
Sal