Single Six forcing cone

[xtratoy]

I have read most all of the threads on forcing cone reaming and haven't spotted the one size I am interested in. I could find no one talking about the results they have had from using the 11 degree reamer from Brownells on their 22 cal. single sixes. Most of my single sixes seem to have very non-pronounced, blunt looking forcing cones. My Bearcat seems to have the least of all of them. Occasionally I do feel spitting from the Bearcat. Any opinions on the pros or cons of this procedure would help. If you have done this, I would like to hear your results.

 

[flatgate]

I'd like to hear more, too!

flatgate

 

[Pinecone]

xtratoy, There is absolutely no difference between .22 cal or say .357 cal forcing cones when it comes to needing to "fix" a bad forcing cone. (corrupted in some way) You need to obtain the 11 degree .22 cal chamfering kit from Brownell's for the job. (080-494-022AC) This kit is relatively expensive, $112.00. Normally, unless your .22 cal forcing cone is really badly corrupted, (very few are) this action is not warranted. With severe "spitting", I would look to leading and/or proper cylinder lock-up first. (oversize cylinder bolt slots or worn cylinder bolts). There just is not the velocity or pressure problems on .22 rimfire forcing cones that you normally see on the larger centerfire revolvers!.......................Dick :wink:

 

[Brules]

I had a revolver that was "spitting" lead, the Brownells kit cleaned up the forcing cone and resolved the problem.

 

[rugerguy]

we've settled on using the 11 degree cutter over the years as it works the most, and best of the ones we tried...when there is little or no forcing cone in the breach end of the barrel, any and a little bit helps, as noted above, any off set or misalignment can and will be very noticeable, with NO cone or in fact hardly any, and we've seen quite a few of Rugers that had shallow, little or NONE ,like they cut off the barrel and let it go???? It does help & works.
any doubt, try it first, yes if you have to go out and buy the set, it is a bit pricy,but we've had ours for YEARS and its paid for itself over and over.
Its cheaper to get the job done, hopefully you have a decent (and fair) smith in your area, and if you make "freinds" with any of these guys, it pays off in the long run.Too many of these 'tools, jigs, and stuff" (gimmicks??) are only good if you are "in the business" and can justify the expense, and in X-number of jobs, make it pay for itself...............I priced some reamers recently and said NO WAY!!When I 'retired' I gave lots of that stuff to my gunsmith, but just hate to take that LONG ride into town, and even "bother" him he's so "busy", I have often told him I cannot afford him any more......... :roll: ( I just wait till the next show and get with some of the other "retired" smiths.....) 8)