Roof Shingle Question.

[wproct]

We have a ranch style house and attached garage on an acerage that was built in 1996. It had Certainteed shingles on it and the roof doesn't have a very steep pitch. We live on a hill and there is a gully that comes up to our house from the northwest, and the wind is a real shingle stripping machine. I replaced the roof in 2008 with Owns Corning Duration shingles. They held up for maybe 9 years and ever since we have constant loss of shingles. Any suggestions on preferred brand etc. I would like to put a steel roof on but the wife is really against it, looks wise. The only guy I have been able to get to come out and do repairs for me doesn't like steel roofs either, says they always leak. I'm just so tired of loosing shingles everytime we get 50 mph plus wind storms. Any advice would be welcomed.

I'm really appreciating all of the comments, and I just wanted to add one other piece of information. I am 80 years old and real world scenario I will not be enjoying the new roof for more than 10 years or so, and that's being optimistic.

 

[s4s4u]

Go steel and be done with it. Steel isn't what is used to be, appearance-wise.

https://www.interlockroofing.com/metal-shingles/

 

[Major E.A. Sterner]

My former neighbor did metal roofs as a business, They have new patterns that look like shingles. If properly installed they shouldn't leak.It sounds like your repair guys don't know how to properly install them. Find someone who specializes in metal roofs and talk with them.

 

[Justice B. Swift]

It sounds like your intending to stay with shingles in spite of a preference for tin. You should know that the higher the rated lifespan of the shingle the heavier the material used in its backing. That is to say that a 50 year shingle is much thicker and heavier than a 30 year shingle. If you stay with shingles don't skimp on quality, it matters. Also be sure your installer takes the time to peel the protective cover strip off of the glue bar on the back of the shingle. Many of them won't because it slows down installation slightly. Also, you can Add tar-based adhesive under the tabs to prevent wind lift. I have done this myself in an area with wind exposure. Just raise the tabs with a putty knife and inject with a caulking gun. Yes, it's slow going, but worth the time. You could do this now (springtime) with your current shingles. Good Luck sir.

 

[wproct]

It sounds like your intending to stay with shingles in spite of a preference for tin. You should know that the higher the rated lifespan of the shingle the heavier the material used in its backing. That is to say that a 50 year shingle is much thicker and heavier than a 30 year shingle. If you stay with shingles don't skimp on quality, it matters. Also be sure your installer takes the time to peel the protective cover strip off of the glue bar on the back of the shingle. Many of them won't because it slows down installation slightly. Also, you can Add tar-based adhesive under the tabs to prevent wind lift. I have done this myself in an area with wind exposure. Just raise the tabs with a putty knife and inject with a caulking gun. Yes, it's slow going, but worth the time. You could do this now (springtime) with your current shingles. Good Luck sir.

Thank you for this comment about removing the protective cover from the adhesive strip. That makes total sense.

 

[s4s4u]

Thank you for this comment about removing the protective cover from the adhesive strip. That makes total sense.

I would suggest that you ignore that comment. That plastic strip is there to prevent the shingles from sticking together in the package.

When the shingle is laid down, that plastic strip does nothing as it remains attached to the bottom of the shingle and not the glue tabs.

 

[s4s4u]

Also be sure your installer takes the time to peel the protective cover strip off of the glue bar on the back of the shingle. Many of them won't because it slows down installation slightly.

Not true whatsoever!

 

[jimbo1096]

Sounds like you’re saying the same thing that you just told him to ignore

 

[s4s4u]

Sounds like you’re saying the same thing that you just told him to ignore

HUH? Perhaps you need to read again?

The plastic strip is there to keep the shingles from sticking together when in the package. When you lay the shingles, the strip does nothing because it remains attached to the back of the shingle...NOT ON THE SEALING TABS!

Have you ever laid a shingle...just wondering

 

[jimbo1096]

Only on my dogs house.

 

[s4s4u]

Only on my dogs house.

Did you remove the plastic strips...

 

[Wyandot Jim]

Not sure why you are having a problem in that light of winds. We have gone thru two hurricanes and 70-90 mph winds without losing a shingle. Also, in a costal/hurricane area the installers are required to use more nails. I think 6 rather than 4 per shingle. Maybe you need to do the same Also the tabs should stick the singles to each other.

https://www.gaf.com/en-us/document-...es-english-size-installation-instructions.pdf

WIND RESISTANCE/HAND SEALING: These shingles have a special thermal sealant that firmly bonds the shingles together after application when exposed to sun and warm temperatures. Shingles installed in fall or winter may not seal until the following spring. If shingles are damaged by winds before sealing or are not exposed to adequate surface temperatures, or if the self-sealant gets dirty, the shingles may never seal. Failure to seal under these circumstances results from the nature of self-sealing shingles, and is not a manufacturing defect. If shingles are to be applied during PROLONGED COLD periods or in areas where airborne dust or sand can be expected before sealing occurs, the shingles MUST be hand sealed. See Nailing Instructions / Hand Sealing.

 

[Justice B. Swift]

The plastic strip does indeed prevent shingles from sticking together from the glue strip. Why would the maker pay to put glue on at all, and then pay to install a non-stick strip over it, if they didn't intend it to adhere to the shingle below it. That is exactly what you stated would happen if the plastic strip wasn't in place during packaging. They wouldn't spend the money to place glue and more money to cover it if it didn't play a role in securing the shingle. I have personally installed them both ways. There is a clear difference after one hot summer, when the glue strip takes hold. Just say'n... my $.02 The OP asked for our opinion, this is mine.

 

[s4s4u]

The plastic strip does indeed prevent shingles from sticking together from the glue strip. Why would the maker pay to put glue on at all, and then pay to install a non-stick strip over it, if they didn't intend it to adhere to the shingle below it. That is exactly what you stated would happen if the plastic strip wasn't in place during packaging. They wouldn't spend the money to place glue and more money to cover it if it didn't play a role in securing the shingle. I have personally installed them both ways. There is a clear difference after one hot summer, when the glue strip takes hold. Just say'n... my $.02

Dude, you have ZERO idea of what you are talking about. Ignorance is fine for yourself, but please don't spread it to others like COVID.

I cannot believe that you have actually laid shingles and actually think that :rolleyes:

The shingle TABS are nowhere near the plastic strip when laid. Just GOOGLE it if you don't believe me!

 

[Bear Paw Jack]

Thank you for this comment about removing the protective cover from the adhesive strip. That makes total sense.

It makes a difference what the day time temperature is when you are pealing off the plastic strip. As JBS said in addition to that handrail is the best in addition to the strips but the warmer the temperature, the better they stick. Shingles also come with wind ratings. If you expect the manufacturer to warranty the shingles the manufacturer expects you to use one of their prequalified roofers.
We get pretty high winds where I live as well, this year already we had gusts of upwards of 80mph. Lost a couple of shingles.
If you get much snow I’d go with metal also. The clip rib is better than the screw down and is less likely to leak. Make sure you have a minimum 4/12 pitch.

 

[s4s4u]

It makes a difference what the day time temperature is when you are pealing off the plastic strip.

You too?

https://www.gaf.com/en-us/document-...plastic-release-film-leave-on-or-take-off.pdf

 

[Bear Paw Jack]

Sorry, I skipped several posts, to respond. I see what you’re saying, I agree with JBS. It serves both purposes.

 

[s4s4u]

Ignorance is no excuse anymore. We have GOOGLE

 

[Justice B. Swift]

to S4S4U,
I encourage you to share your experience and opinion, However I DON't appreciate your personal attack and declaration of my stupidity. It's not warranted or beneficial. Let's keep it respectful!

 

[s4s4u]

to S4S4U,
I encourage you to share your experience and opinion, However I DON't appreciate your personal attack and declaration of my stupidity. It's not warranted or beneficial. Let's keep it respectful!

Apologize for the comment, but you were so confident and yet so incorrect I lost my mind....

I plead temporary insanity... ;)

 

[s4s4u]

Sorry, I skipped several posts, to respond. I see what you’re saying, I agree with JBS. It serves both purposes.

Just what "both" purposes are you referring to?

 

[roylt]

I didn't read all the posts but I put metal hidden fastener roof on back in 2016. It was almost twice as much as shingles but it is a lifetime roof. The paint on the metal has a 75 year warranty and I'll be long dead way before that. Had Amish do it for me. Well worth it. As for your wife, I suggest you have her look at different options and colors. There are tons that won't make your house look like a barn.

 

[s4s4u]

For the reading impaired:

 

[Bear Paw Jack]

Just what "both" purposes are you referring to?

Keeping them from sticking together and to deal. I have no idea what Iko does, nor do I care. We carried Malarkey and sold them by the truckload.
Are you saying Iko requires hand tabbing or saying hand tabbing isn’t necessary?

 

[GasGuzzler]

Go metal next time. Costs more but the insurance savings is massive. It also is way better at insulating. The only downfall is hail dents it and insurance is only super cheap (compared to composite) if you sign a waiver for cosmetic damage. It's also louder in rain and hail. My parents built a house in 2003-2004 and used 5/8" radiant barrier decking and high quality metal roofing and are super happy. I replaced my composite roof in 2003, 2007 (different house), and 2023 and all had better than midland roofs when installed. A 30 year composite roof is good for 10-15 years in Texas with the sun, wind, and winters.

 

[Mobuck]

I replaced house shingles in 1986. Twenty years later, a hail storm dinged the shingles enough to require replacement. I added 2x4 nailers with 1.5" foam board between the nailers and installed a metal roof. Still good, no leaks, and snow slides off rather than stacks up-roof doesn't have much pitch.
FWIW, I ain't no professional roofer but every roofing job I was on, we peeled those strips off. First warm, sunny day, those shingles stuck and sealed like they'd been laid on hot tar.

 

[WanderLust]

As far as the metal roofs go, I’ve had a few on some of my homes and my cabins. Steeper angle transitions are not friendly to metal roofs; leaves and pine needles pack in there and act as sponges. Heavy rains can back up into these areas, or be pushed back by the wind. I’ve had that happen and form leaks inside. Pros and cons as with everything else; talk to the companies that sell the MATERIALS, not the guys who get paid to put on a roof. They’ll tend to be more open about all the facts. Not an expert but I’ve had a few different roofs.

 

[mrs50sls56]

I managed Lumberyards and have sold and warranties thousands of pallets of asphalt shingles. The two brands you listed (Certainteed and Owens Corning) are the best that money can buy. Basic rule is; the darker color you go, the shorter the life. The darker colors absorb sunlight; heat is the enemy of the asphalt that holds the granular material to the base material. When granules start falling off, the end is near. The best time to apply shingles is in warmer, wind free, times of the year; dust is less likely to get under the shingle and interfere with the sealant that bonds the shingles together. The heat helps to create that bond. Most importantly, all Manufacturers require “manual” sealing on pitches less than 3:12 or in high-wind areas. This is done with a tar product like Black Jack or similar. YMMV, but that’s my recommendation, FWIW.

 

[protoolman]

I've worked over 10 years selling, delivering and installing shingles in my life. Ive also took all the classes put on by the major brands. You've got some good advice and some common misconceptions here. First go look at some shingles somewhere that displays the shingles side by side. The ikos are my least favorite. The Owens corning are decent and available most everywhere but the Malarkeys s are visibly thicker in the grit layer and well worth it. Roofers put them on their own houses like mechanics prefer Valvoline. They tend to cost a bit more but its easy to see the shingle is more substantial. They make the grit layer on other brands look bald. As mentioned the real enemies of getting a good seal are dust and low temp. In a perfect world you put shingles on on a day cool enough you don't make squishy footprints like 80s? Then get some nice 90s to seal them down fast and good. You said low slope and wind are bad. I agree both are your enemy. Getting a good seal is going to be essential. If you can't get them on in hot weather don't do it! By the time they seal down the dust will have compromised the sealing adhesive. Also look at the instructions on any shingle package they have the nail placement for high wind that adds 2 extra nails. If your installer over drives the nails or staples they will break through and you will lose shingles. If you hand nail your shingles you will never lose a shingle but that's a lost cause because no one but me does that anymore. If your contractor doesnt use coil nails and uses staples fire him and find one that does. With your low slope, schedule now for a late summer job placement if your area is busy ( mine is and is booked already). Most areas have a local bunch with a good reputation and lots of travelling Hispanic people sometimes using a local guys name but once they're gone you'll never see them again. Hire the locals every time! Saving money with travelling crews is literally an organized crime scam! The plastic strips is a non issue. They are not made to be peeled and no professional is ever going to peel them. If you want to go for it. You can certainly add glue when you install the shingle but it shouldn't add anything if they are installed right to begin with. Look closely at the manufacturers warranty requirements for installation. They tell you everything you need to do for a successful installation. Oh and all the 30 year, 50 year ratings are gone but the roofers and sales people can show you which ones are comparable. Don't know why they dropped that system, I suppose it just made sense. Profit margins on shingle are highly competitive so the old standard 30 years shingles are going to be the ones all priced the same at home depot etc.

On the subject of steel roofs there is a lot to know for installers. They are more expensive and will leak easier especially on low slope or high wind areas. There are many kinds from actual steel shingles to panels with no exposed fasteners to barn tin with exposed screws. Installed correctly they can be lifetime roofs in proper installation. Unfortunately very few roofers do them correctly as there is way more training and widely different products available all with different considerations. If you go steel make sure the guy you get isn't the guy who suggests barn tin.Steel roofs have evolved way beyond that and you need a professional who has the training from the manufacturers. I saw a higher percentage of disappointed customers by far with steel than shingles just because of mistakes on installation there is just so much to know. Amateurs can master asphalt shingles sucessfully, residential steel roofs, good luck, even the pros mess up a fair bit.

 

[Sam Summey]

We have a ranch style house and attached garage on an acerage that was built in 1996. It had Certainteed shingles on it and the roof doesn't have a very steep pitch. We live on a hill and there is a gully that comes up to our house from the northwest, and the wind is a real shingle stripping machine. I replaced the roof in 2008 with Owns Corning Duration shingles. They held up for maybe 9 years and ever since we have constant loss of shingles. Any suggestions on preferred brand etc. I would like to put a steel roof on but the wife is really against it, looks wise. The only guy I have been able to get to come out and do repairs for me doesn't like steel roofs either, says they always leak. I'm just so tired of loosing shingles everytime we get 50 mph plus wind storms. Any advice would be welcomed.

I've had a metal roof for about 5 years, no leaks.