ROA Base Pin latch issues

[bczrx]

Hello,

I have a ROA [1972 blued] that has a base pin latch that doesn't want to stay 'latched' tight. It will rotate back about 90 degrees when cycling the cylinder. I haven't actually fired it yet.

Is there any way to tighten this up? Should I be worried?

Thanks

 

[Carry_Up]

Of course this should be repaired!! Please take a closer look at the latch and base pin out of the gun (post photos if possible). I have seen base pins rotating with the cylinder on guns that have had no maintenance for years - does the base pin rotate? That might affect what the latch is doing. Does the latch have any stripped threads? Let's get out the magnifying glass!

CU

 

[bczrx]

Keep in mind that this is the Ruger Old Army. There are no threads on the base pin latch. There is a ball bearing and spring that keeps it from falling out.

I don't have access to a decent camera right now, and won't for a few days.

I've looked at it again.

The base pin does not rotate when in the gun. The base pin did seem to have a hint of forward/aft sliding motion when the base pin latch was turned to 'lock'

The base pin latch was able to turn from 'lock' to 'unlock' with my fingers- not needing a screwdriver/etc.

I pulled it apart and see almost NO sign of any wear in the locking surfaces of the base pin latch or the notch cut in the base pin itself.

I tested it with a 'known good' spare base pin, and had the same results.

In the process, something crossed my mind.

I tried using a screwdriver to really crank it to the 'lock' position, as it seemed the base pin latch wasn't turning enough to 'bite' into the base pin and wedge it into place.

After putting some torque on it [not a HECK of a lot- I've sheared bolts, so I now know what to watch for], I tried to turn it with my fingers, and there was no motion.

I am thinking I just failed to tighten it appropriately after my initial cleaning.

Thank you though!

 

[G2]

There is NO torque required. It just needs to be in the forward detent position.

FYI DONT FORGET TO PUT IT IN THE CORRECT LOCKED POSITION BEFORE YOU EVER USE THE LOADING LEVER.
A loose base pin because of a forgot to engage the base pin retaing pin, the loading lever will snap the base pin.
Currently a ~$75 fix when you finally find a spare.

OPEN the pin slot is in the 9-3 o'clock position. Closed is 1-7 o'clock

 

[bczrx]

There is NO torque required. It just needs to be in the forward detent position.

FYI DONT FORGET TO PUT IT IN THE CORRECT LOCKED POSITION BEFORE YOU EVER USE THE LOADING LEVER.
A loose base pin because of a forgot to engage the base pin retaing pin, the loading lever will snap the base pin.
Currently a ~$75 fix when you finally find a spare.

OPEN the pin slot is in the 9-3 o'clock position. Closed is 1-7 o'clock

Thanks,

So, if it moves to the 11-5 o'clock position on its own there isn't an issue, as it is still engaged?

 

[G2]

No, if it is moving on its own it indicates to me the the ball detent is not working correctly.
From what you describe it sounds like it might be "gunked up".

I would suggest, move to the 3-9 position,
Remove the base pin/loading assembly & cylinder.
Give the latch pin a good dose of WD-40. The WD-40 is only being used as a solvent and slight lubricant at this point.
With a brass punch drive the pin from left to right, in other words the punch should be on the non screw head side.
Once you get it out give the thing a long soak in WD-40 or a good solvent to get the grease from the ball out. Also clean up the area on the gun itself. I personally like WD-40 as a solvent for the cleaning.
Wipe it down clean and I librally re-lube with Break-Free.
Line the the pin back in the 3-9 position and usually you can persuade a clean pin back in with just finger pressure, but if need be, use what ever is non-marring to drive it back thru. It should re-install much easier than it came out, if it is clean and the ball is not stuck still.
Now it should click into the OPEN position 3-9 and the CLOSED position 1-7 with a clear and concise detent position.
When operating the screw/pin you will learn when the screw head is lined up with the base pin it's open and when it's crossed the base pin it's closed, like a gate valve.

Note: I have been overly specific here with dis/re-assembly instructions as this is a common problem with Ruger Old Army's and others will read read this.

It has been a long time fact that the Old Army was one of Bill Ruger's favorites. As I have admired, used, taken apart, fixed, re-built these over the years they are special in simplicity of design. A day spent a field enjoying burnt black powder with these guns is truly a good day.