Removing factory muzzle brake
- Thread starter pm1964
- Start date
They have flats....So, I'd try using the appropriate wrench. 
Shouldn't need loctite. If you plan on leaving it on, use a crush washer. If not, go with a shim of the appropriate thickness.
Brownells has a number of excellent videos dealing with the subject of muzzle devices.
Brownells has a number of excellent videos dealing with the subject of muzzle devices.
AR wrench usually gets it off. I have had a couple that were REALLY on there. For those I have a very large crescent wrench.
I have a couple appropriately-sized strap wrenches I use for damage-free removal of muzzle devices. Sometimes, they are so extremely tight, even with a correctly sized wrench, I cannot loosen them without fearing damage.
Being it will be a suppressor host, crush washers are not recommended. Shims provide more concentricity.
how does a muzzle break and suppressor work together?
First: find a piece of automotive 'heater hose' about 6-8" long. New is better than used as it's not 'contaminated' with antifreeze. Split the hose length wise and slip it over the barrel just behind the muzzle where the barrel taper is negligible. Clamp the hose covered barrel horizontally in a substantial bench vise-don't be timid with the clamping as long as you don't cut through the hose. Use the appropriate sized wrench to remove the muzzle device. If the hose/bench vise doesn't provide enough resistance, get the largest 'strap wrench' you can find and use that on the front action ring at the front scope base.
If just pulling on the wrench doesn't break it loose, use a deadblow hammer to whack the wrench. All this may require another set of hands. I've removed some muzzle devices apparently installed by King Kong using this combination.
If just pulling on the wrench doesn't break it loose, use a deadblow hammer to whack the wrench. All this may require another set of hands. I've removed some muzzle devices apparently installed by King Kong using this combination.
contender
Ruger Guru
One thing I would add to the above is that if by chance there is some thread locker, use a hair dryer to warm things up a bit to help loosen it. (Don't try that if using the heater hose as a cushion for the wrenches.)
Standard? Ranch? Predator? Scout (but thats an AR style suppressor not a brake like the others)?
You can get by with a punch if need be....;)
You can get by with a punch if need be....;)
It's not a break, its a brake....unless it's a break, then it's broke ;)
Many QD suppressors interface with their own brake/flash hider/compensator that is threaded for their cans.
https://silencerco.com/shop/muzzle-brake-bundle/
Pure heat will do wonders most times. But, if they use Rocksett you will need to soak it in hot water.
If it is Rocksett which it very likely is.
https://www.flexbar.com/products/ro...stands oil, fuels, acids,by a hot water soak.
https://www.flexbar.com/products/ro...stands oil, fuels, acids,by a hot water soak.
I don't think I've seen too many instances of Ruger using Rocksett etc.
I seem to remember at least one of the Americans using a lock nut. I would have to look it up.
I haven't had any trouble with the Gen 2s that leverage would not cure.
I seem to remember at least one of the Americans using a lock nut. I would have to look it up.
I haven't had any trouble with the Gen 2s that leverage would not cure.
This is a completely different rifle platform from what I believe you are thinking of (legality techniques to keep a rifle/carbine legal)....and it's a "brake".
Ruger makes no mention of this anywhere in their documentation, so I'd bet not.
When I called Ruger with that question they told me to wrap an old belt around the barrel to minimize damage, and to use a Crescent wrench. They confirmed they do not use any sort of thread locking compound, pin, fastener or anything else.
I was not successful in removing the muzzle brake.
