Afternoon, having never reloaded before, what is a realistic expectation someone can reload a box of 50 .38 special or price per round? Typically buy PMC FMJ 132 grain brass for .60 cents round box 50 or .44 cents /1000 rounds. What would the reload cost be compared to that retail pricing? Wondering to see if cost saving alone is a reason enough to spend possibly thousands on reloading equipment and supplies.
Reloading .38 special questions
- Thread starter FLgun
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It will be difficult to jump into reloading 38 special, 9mm, 45 acp and save money. Components are high priced and scarce, especially primers.
If you go to yard sales, estate sales, etc you might find some used equipment, maybe even some components and buy in on the low side.
Money is saved when you reload calibers like 45 Colt, 44 Special, 41 mag, etc. which have a retail cost pushing $1.00 per round.
Rifle shooters may or may not save money, but they get more accurate ammunition.
If you go to yard sales, estate sales, etc you might find some used equipment, maybe even some components and buy in on the low side.
Money is saved when you reload calibers like 45 Colt, 44 Special, 41 mag, etc. which have a retail cost pushing $1.00 per round.
Rifle shooters may or may not save money, but they get more accurate ammunition.
Ah, I was thinking I could buy a Dillion square B progressive press for around $800.00. For faster reload times . 8 lbs powder for around $250.00. Primers for around $100.00 /1000 and still be able to make reloads cheaper than 0.44 or .60 a round eventually after I recoup initial equipment costs.
You will eventually recoup your initial costs, which will be higher than you think. Besides $ saved by reloading, an even bigger advantage is creating loads that suit you, not the factory.
Case in point: I shoot mid range .357 and .44 mag., maybe 1,000-1,100 FPS. Not magnums but more than normal factory 44/38 Specials. I load up the 44 Specials, but not near to 44 magnum velocities. They suit me. 32 magnum? I hot rod that SOB! LOL
For years I hunted with a Ruger .243. I liked 100 gr. Nosler Partitions. Good luck finding them loaded semi hot in factory offerings. I have the components, I decide what to load.
Mine has paid for itself hundreds of times since '76/'77, and I still use an RCBS single stage press.
I don't look at it this way, but many do so I'll say it first:
Reloading won't save you $, but you will be able to shoot twice (I'll say 4x) as much for the same cost
Life is short, buy the reloading components!
Case in point: I shoot mid range .357 and .44 mag., maybe 1,000-1,100 FPS. Not magnums but more than normal factory 44/38 Specials. I load up the 44 Specials, but not near to 44 magnum velocities. They suit me. 32 magnum? I hot rod that SOB! LOL
For years I hunted with a Ruger .243. I liked 100 gr. Nosler Partitions. Good luck finding them loaded semi hot in factory offerings. I have the components, I decide what to load.
Mine has paid for itself hundreds of times since '76/'77, and I still use an RCBS single stage press.
I don't look at it this way, but many do so I'll say it first:
Reloading won't save you $, but you will be able to shoot twice (I'll say 4x) as much for the same cost
Life is short, buy the reloading components!
Pál_K
Single-Sixer
Cholo is correct!
The reasons I reload for every centerfire caliber I shoot are:
- tailoring the load for accuracy
- tailoring the load for power (usually medium; I rarely use maximum loads)
- choosing the bullet I want (cast bullets put less wear on barrels than jacketed)
- the fun of developing the load from a combination of components
I'm fortunate to have started in 1988 when the cost of entry to reloading was less. I've used my RCBS single stage press for thousands of rounds, but I also have and can recommend a turret press like the Redding T-7.
.38 Special is fun to shoot and develop loads for. A pound of powder like W231 can give you over 1700 rounds.
The reasons I reload for every centerfire caliber I shoot are:
- tailoring the load for accuracy
- tailoring the load for power (usually medium; I rarely use maximum loads)
- choosing the bullet I want (cast bullets put less wear on barrels than jacketed)
- the fun of developing the load from a combination of components
I'm fortunate to have started in 1988 when the cost of entry to reloading was less. I've used my RCBS single stage press for thousands of rounds, but I also have and can recommend a turret press like the Redding T-7.
.38 Special is fun to shoot and develop loads for. A pound of powder like W231 can give you over 1700 rounds.
My advice? Don't buy a Dillon if you're looking to save money. I've reloaded for 27 years with a Rockchucker and now a Lee classic turret and they are great. Used gear at gunshows is cheaper. If you love it later think about the Dillon. Money saved buy primers, bullets, powder. My 2 cents.
Nice looking reloads, Pál_K!
NikA
Buckeye
If you don't cast, 3.5c powder + 10c primer + 10c cast bullet + cost of metallic case. I feel .38 Special is one of the most economical rounds to reload given it costs 2.5x as 9mm with the same component costs.
If you cast, bullet cost is about half. .38 Special cases are on the order of 6-10c/per used and effectively last forever.
If you cast, bullet cost is about half. .38 Special cases are on the order of 6-10c/per used and effectively last forever.
MHtractorguy
Single-Sixer
Don't buy a press until you check
Lee Precision's website. You can get fancy and expensive if you want to, later. Just starting out. buy Lee.
I planned to upgrade at a later date when I first got started. That was in the early '80s.
I still use the same Lee equipment, and I have bought more of their tricky little gadgets, too.
It is a hobby all by itself.
Lee Precision's website. You can get fancy and expensive if you want to, later. Just starting out. buy Lee.
I planned to upgrade at a later date when I first got started. That was in the early '80s.
I still use the same Lee equipment, and I have bought more of their tricky little gadgets, too.
It is a hobby all by itself.
Everyone will have their own priorities, and therefore their own approach to reloading. It is indeed possible to save money by loading your own ammo - that is precisely why I got started. Back in the 1980s, I figured out that I could buy new .45 Colt brass, commercial lead bullets, propellant and primers, and even if I only used the brass once, it still cost less than buying factory .45 Colt ammo at that time (and obviously I reused the brass).
I didn't know anyone who reloaded, so I read the Speer reloading manual and taught myself. Because I wasn't sure if I would like reloading, I started with a small investment in equipment: a Lee hand press, a Lee powder "dipper" set, Lee .45 Colt dies (which also included loading data for use with the dippers), and a Lee Auto Prime hand priming tool. And that approach worked for me, for years - I still use the dippers when I'm doing trial loads, and on occasion mount my old hand press upside-down in a bench vise for seating plain-base gas checks!
You can still save money reloading .38 Special, but it depends on your priorities. Jacketed bullets cost more than cast, but some folks prefer jacketed; new brass costs more than range brass, but some folks prefer new. I personally prefer to keep my costs down, so I use a lot of cast bullets and range brass. At the last gun show I attended, one vendor had .38 range brass for $5 per hundred (and dropped his price to $4 on Sunday). I've purchased cast bullets for as little as a penny or two a piece, but buying coated cast bullets from a manufacturer may provide a more consistent supply (& less time cleaning ;^). Primers & propellant are still pricey, but I've had good luck buying both from private sellers (YMMV).
As others have mentioned, buying used reloading equipment can also save you money. I recently added a second Lee turret press (with several extra turrets and some other equipment) for just $40 plus shipping, purchased on GunBroker. There's nothing wrong with buying new Dillon equipment, it all depends on your priorities!
As always IMHO, FWIW, YMMV, etc.
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Yes, it is. If it ends up being just a chore, you'll never look forward to, nor enjoy it.
Lots of other good info above ↑ ↑ ↑ since my last post!
I got my first Lee turret press on the recommendation of a gentleman who shot competitively. IIRC, he used one to load 500 rounds of .38 Special every week, week after week after week. If it works, don't fix it!
I owned a SDB, great equipment, but it would be better to start with a single stage kit, Lee, Rcbs or Hornady because you would get other necessary equipment you need with the kit at a great cost saving. Plus if you don't like reloading easier to sell the kit.
Don't buy a 8 pounder at first because if you don't like the powder it hard to sell an open container sometimes.
Your in Florida think of Reloading as a Boat; you don't save anything you just shoot more and more and more.
I will not discourage purchasing a Dillon progressive press, because I purchased a 550 as my first handgun/rifle press. 6 months later I bought a second 550, one for large primers and one for small primers. Just change tool heads, load primers and powder and start cranking out ammo.
Purchasing a 550 allows use of non-Dillon branded, proprietary dies. Also a 550 can be used to load most rifle cartridges.
You can even buy gadgets online that allow you to use a 550 as a single stage.
As others have said, there are lots of good reasons to reload. I loaded my wife some "bunny fart" rounds for her to shoot in her S&W alloy J frame. When I was dabbling in IDPA I loaded my own 9mm with 147 grain bullets and dash of Titegroup just strong enough to cycle the guns I was shooting.
I have a good stock of $35/1000 primers and powder purchased at $20 or less per pound I am saving for retirement.
Buy a Dillon 550 and don't look back.
You can always pick up a single stage for odd jobs, e.g. decapping scavenged 223 brass and such.
Don't forget to factor in all the peripherals, brass cleaning system and media, check weight scale, calipers, powder measuring system (if going with a single stage).
Purchasing a 550 allows use of non-Dillon branded, proprietary dies. Also a 550 can be used to load most rifle cartridges.
You can even buy gadgets online that allow you to use a 550 as a single stage.
As others have said, there are lots of good reasons to reload. I loaded my wife some "bunny fart" rounds for her to shoot in her S&W alloy J frame. When I was dabbling in IDPA I loaded my own 9mm with 147 grain bullets and dash of Titegroup just strong enough to cycle the guns I was shooting.
I have a good stock of $35/1000 primers and powder purchased at $20 or less per pound I am saving for retirement.
Buy a Dillon 550 and don't look back.
You can always pick up a single stage for odd jobs, e.g. decapping scavenged 223 brass and such.
Don't forget to factor in all the peripherals, brass cleaning system and media, check weight scale, calipers, powder measuring system (if going with a single stage).
My dad started me reloading in 1957 when I was 8 years old. All I have ever used is a single station or turret presses. Unless your plan to reload a LOT all at one time you don't need any more. I would start simple, learn the basics and then if you want to get into a progressive press you can sell off all the other stuff you don't want. I have a Lyman Spar-T press that I bought in 1974 and I hate to think about the thousands & thousands of rounds I have loaded with it and it is still going strong. I was casting my own bullets and reloading and shooting 400-500 rounds of 38 Spec. each week back then. I think I am still using some of that brass. Even with today's prices you should be able to reload 38s for less than 22 lr costs.
Over the years I have reloaded at least 75 different calibers, down to just 32 now. Once you have the basic setup it's just the cost of a new set of dies to add another caliber. Same with casting your own bullets, another mold and maybe a sizing die.
As someone else said, you will not save any money reloading, but you will shoot more for the same cost.
Over the years I have reloaded at least 75 different calibers, down to just 32 now. Once you have the basic setup it's just the cost of a new set of dies to add another caliber. Same with casting your own bullets, another mold and maybe a sizing die.
As someone else said, you will not save any money reloading, but you will shoot more for the same cost.
MHtractorguy
Single-Sixer
Not sure if this was mentioned...or if it even needs to be mentioned among adults, but I want to say it anyway.
If you plan to start reloading to save money on ammo and you do not shoot a whole lot, then you really need to factor in the investment in equipment.
Whenever I hear a shooter talking about buying $1000 worth of equipment to save money on ammo, I ask them "WHY?"
Do you have special needs for ammo? Do you need 100 grain 9mm of some oddball rounds you can't buy?
If you want to try out the new hobby of handloading strictly to save money on readily available ammo that you shoot a couple hundred rounds a year, then you need to find a buddy and sit in for a session at his loading bench. Look at all of those books on the shelf. They are expensive. Look at those canisters of powder. Please understand that he might get grumpy if you touch anything, and do not expect him to answer your questions immediately. He is in the safety zone. Look around at his loading environment. No distractions. He is dedicated to what he is doing. It is a deadly serious commitment to detail and making sure that everything is correct before you seat a bullet.
I have had some shooting buddies come to my place and load some of their own ammo. I didn't try to discourage them, but most decided to keep buying factory ammo and save their brass for a while before they made the investment.
If you plan to start reloading to save money on ammo and you do not shoot a whole lot, then you really need to factor in the investment in equipment.
Whenever I hear a shooter talking about buying $1000 worth of equipment to save money on ammo, I ask them "WHY?"
Do you have special needs for ammo? Do you need 100 grain 9mm of some oddball rounds you can't buy?
If you want to try out the new hobby of handloading strictly to save money on readily available ammo that you shoot a couple hundred rounds a year, then you need to find a buddy and sit in for a session at his loading bench. Look at all of those books on the shelf. They are expensive. Look at those canisters of powder. Please understand that he might get grumpy if you touch anything, and do not expect him to answer your questions immediately. He is in the safety zone. Look around at his loading environment. No distractions. He is dedicated to what he is doing. It is a deadly serious commitment to detail and making sure that everything is correct before you seat a bullet.
I have had some shooting buddies come to my place and load some of their own ammo. I didn't try to discourage them, but most decided to keep buying factory ammo and save their brass for a while before they made the investment.
contender
Ruger Guru
As a handloader since the 1970's,, I can say that the OP has asked an honest question, and been given a lot of excellent info.
But I want to address his initial comments about the cost savings,, and to quote him; "to spend possibly thousands on reloading equipment and supplies."
And he later says he's considering a Dillon SDB as a starter set-up. A SDB new price from Dillon is $630.00. it comes with (1) caliber set-up. (In the OP's case,, .38 Spl.) add to that the powder & primers,, as mentioned,, around $350.00 for powder & primers. Buying bullets,, will increase that expense, (from about .10 cents per bullet to upwards of .30 cents a bullet, depending upon what type & where he buys them,) and if he already has brass he'll be set up to just do .38 Spl.
By using those numbers,, yes,, the initial expense will exceed $1000. If you only loaded 50 rounds,, that'd be a very high expense for just 50 rounds. BUT,,,, if you loaded 1000 rounds,, (using the number of the primers mentioned, then the cost will be close to what 1000 rounds of factory ammo would have cost. Here's the point the savings kicks in. At 1000 rounds,, you've about broken even on the expense of setting up. But now,, you are out of primers, and lets say for the sake of discussion, just purchased 1000 bullets initially as well. Now buy another 1000 primers & bullets. What did that cost? Maybe $350-$400?? The powders most often used in .38 Spl if purchased in an 8 lb jug will load around 4000-7000 rounds,, so you will still have powder. Your second 1000 rounds will be much less than the first 1000 rounds.
Over time,, depending upon how much you shoot,, you will see the expense of the ammo settle in at around 1/2 the cost of factory ammo as an average figure. You can reduce that buy the way you buy components,, by watching for sales,, getting a good deal in various locations, etc. And if you were to find that you really enjoyed the hobby,, you could try casting bullets to make the bullet expense even lower.
And after all that,, you still have a great reloading machine that has value. A Dillon progressive retains good value,, while others,, maybe not as much. I learned long ago when it came to equipment that I was going to use a lot; "Buy once, buy quality, and you only cry once." Good quality can outlast our lives. I have a RCBS RockChucker press I bought used in 1980,, that is still a top quality press,, and I can easily sell it for a lot more than what I paid back then. The same goes for my Dillon presses. I have less in my 1st Dillon 650 with casefeed than the current cost of the new SDB. I know I could make money on the set-up.
Now the negatives.
The Dillon SDB is a great machine,, but uses Dillon only dies. As mentioned above,, the 550 or 750 etc can use standard dies. If you ever have any idea of reloading any other calibers,, this is a bigger deal, especially if you might load any rifle calibers. the SDB doesn't load any rifle ammo.
Another negative,, especially for a new reloader,, is the learning curve of a progressive (the Dillon) over a single stage. BUT,,, they you can begin on a Dillon,, and do quite well. if you read the manual, and especially if you have a friend who can mentor you in their use. A single stage press is much slower,, but it does allow a new loader to slowly learn the process, AND understand what is happening. Another good fact of a single stage,, is when you have a problem,, a single stage is an easier & quicker "fix." Just the other day,, as I was using my Dillon 650 and loading some 9mm ammo, I had a few little problems. I was loading 600 rounds of 9mm, and during that session, I had a couple of case that the primer didn't get knocked out completely. For me & my experience level,, it wasn't a big deal. But a new reloader may experience a lot more frustration over that.
Since the expense of loading seems to be the theme of the OP,, I would suggest a bit of careful & judicious shopping around. I have helped a few friends find & buy used Dillons for very good prices. In just the last year or so,, (4) SDB's all cost $300 each. And a couple of them came with extra caliber conversions. Then a 650 & a 750,, each sold for $750 with case feeds etc. (A member here got the 750.) The point is,, you can get top quality,, without paying retail. And yes,, Dillon still has their lifetime warranty,, even if you didn't buy it new.
But a Dillon is the best progressive machine available to the hobby market. And yes,, is does allow for much faster loading of any amount of ammo over a single stage press set-up. And if only loading (1) caliber,, in handgun calibers,, the SDB is a good one to use. Initial expense seems high,, but as mentioned,, you will recoup it the more you use it & keep it.
In looking at the current Dillon catalog,, a SDB costs $629.00. But if you add the stuff in the picture to "upgrade" it,, (the strong mount, the low powder sensor, the bullet tray kit, the tool holder & wrenches, and the case bin & bracket,) it lists for $948.00.
For a beginner,, those upgrade are NOT "necessary." If you want the bullet tray,, then the strong mount & the case bin & bracket are required. But if you mount the press to a bench,, (mine is) not necessary. In fact,, all the accessories except the low powder sensor require the use of the strong mount. And While I have (4) Dillons on my bench, as well as several caliber conversions,, NONE,, and I mean NONE have the low powder sensor.
At $629.00 plus shipping,, you can buy powder, primers & bullets,, & start loading once it's set-up & adjusted. Beyond that,, you will NEED at least (2) necessary items. A powder scale, and at least (1) good reloading manual, (better to get a couple of different manuals though.) I like to say that after 10,000 rounds of loaded ammo,, in general,, you have reached the point where the expense of the equipment has been met. Then the only expenses are the expendable components.
Having the equipment and enough components can allow you to shoot when others can't because ammo dries up, or components dry up.
I'll close this long-winded response with a statement made a few times above. You may not save money,, but you can shoot a lot more for the same money. But if you shoot the same amount as you currently do,, then yes,, you will shoot for less money.
But I want to address his initial comments about the cost savings,, and to quote him; "to spend possibly thousands on reloading equipment and supplies."
And he later says he's considering a Dillon SDB as a starter set-up. A SDB new price from Dillon is $630.00. it comes with (1) caliber set-up. (In the OP's case,, .38 Spl.) add to that the powder & primers,, as mentioned,, around $350.00 for powder & primers. Buying bullets,, will increase that expense, (from about .10 cents per bullet to upwards of .30 cents a bullet, depending upon what type & where he buys them,) and if he already has brass he'll be set up to just do .38 Spl.
By using those numbers,, yes,, the initial expense will exceed $1000. If you only loaded 50 rounds,, that'd be a very high expense for just 50 rounds. BUT,,,, if you loaded 1000 rounds,, (using the number of the primers mentioned, then the cost will be close to what 1000 rounds of factory ammo would have cost. Here's the point the savings kicks in. At 1000 rounds,, you've about broken even on the expense of setting up. But now,, you are out of primers, and lets say for the sake of discussion, just purchased 1000 bullets initially as well. Now buy another 1000 primers & bullets. What did that cost? Maybe $350-$400?? The powders most often used in .38 Spl if purchased in an 8 lb jug will load around 4000-7000 rounds,, so you will still have powder. Your second 1000 rounds will be much less than the first 1000 rounds.
Over time,, depending upon how much you shoot,, you will see the expense of the ammo settle in at around 1/2 the cost of factory ammo as an average figure. You can reduce that buy the way you buy components,, by watching for sales,, getting a good deal in various locations, etc. And if you were to find that you really enjoyed the hobby,, you could try casting bullets to make the bullet expense even lower.
And after all that,, you still have a great reloading machine that has value. A Dillon progressive retains good value,, while others,, maybe not as much. I learned long ago when it came to equipment that I was going to use a lot; "Buy once, buy quality, and you only cry once." Good quality can outlast our lives. I have a RCBS RockChucker press I bought used in 1980,, that is still a top quality press,, and I can easily sell it for a lot more than what I paid back then. The same goes for my Dillon presses. I have less in my 1st Dillon 650 with casefeed than the current cost of the new SDB. I know I could make money on the set-up.
Now the negatives.
The Dillon SDB is a great machine,, but uses Dillon only dies. As mentioned above,, the 550 or 750 etc can use standard dies. If you ever have any idea of reloading any other calibers,, this is a bigger deal, especially if you might load any rifle calibers. the SDB doesn't load any rifle ammo.
Another negative,, especially for a new reloader,, is the learning curve of a progressive (the Dillon) over a single stage. BUT,,, they you can begin on a Dillon,, and do quite well. if you read the manual, and especially if you have a friend who can mentor you in their use. A single stage press is much slower,, but it does allow a new loader to slowly learn the process, AND understand what is happening. Another good fact of a single stage,, is when you have a problem,, a single stage is an easier & quicker "fix." Just the other day,, as I was using my Dillon 650 and loading some 9mm ammo, I had a few little problems. I was loading 600 rounds of 9mm, and during that session, I had a couple of case that the primer didn't get knocked out completely. For me & my experience level,, it wasn't a big deal. But a new reloader may experience a lot more frustration over that.
Since the expense of loading seems to be the theme of the OP,, I would suggest a bit of careful & judicious shopping around. I have helped a few friends find & buy used Dillons for very good prices. In just the last year or so,, (4) SDB's all cost $300 each. And a couple of them came with extra caliber conversions. Then a 650 & a 750,, each sold for $750 with case feeds etc. (A member here got the 750.) The point is,, you can get top quality,, without paying retail. And yes,, Dillon still has their lifetime warranty,, even if you didn't buy it new.
But a Dillon is the best progressive machine available to the hobby market. And yes,, is does allow for much faster loading of any amount of ammo over a single stage press set-up. And if only loading (1) caliber,, in handgun calibers,, the SDB is a good one to use. Initial expense seems high,, but as mentioned,, you will recoup it the more you use it & keep it.
In looking at the current Dillon catalog,, a SDB costs $629.00. But if you add the stuff in the picture to "upgrade" it,, (the strong mount, the low powder sensor, the bullet tray kit, the tool holder & wrenches, and the case bin & bracket,) it lists for $948.00.
For a beginner,, those upgrade are NOT "necessary." If you want the bullet tray,, then the strong mount & the case bin & bracket are required. But if you mount the press to a bench,, (mine is) not necessary. In fact,, all the accessories except the low powder sensor require the use of the strong mount. And While I have (4) Dillons on my bench, as well as several caliber conversions,, NONE,, and I mean NONE have the low powder sensor.
At $629.00 plus shipping,, you can buy powder, primers & bullets,, & start loading once it's set-up & adjusted. Beyond that,, you will NEED at least (2) necessary items. A powder scale, and at least (1) good reloading manual, (better to get a couple of different manuals though.) I like to say that after 10,000 rounds of loaded ammo,, in general,, you have reached the point where the expense of the equipment has been met. Then the only expenses are the expendable components.
Having the equipment and enough components can allow you to shoot when others can't because ammo dries up, or components dry up.
I'll close this long-winded response with a statement made a few times above. You may not save money,, but you can shoot a lot more for the same money. But if you shoot the same amount as you currently do,, then yes,, you will shoot for less money.
