Reloading .38 special questions

[Laserbait]

Don't buy a 8 pounder at first because if you don't like the powder it hard to sell an open container sometimes.

Your in Florida think of Reloading as a Boat; you don't save anything you just shoot more and more and more.

Very true words! 1lb of powder is 7000 grains, and at a nominal charge weight of about 3.5 grains per load in 38 Special, that's 2000 rounds worth. When you graduate to using a progressive and are making several thousand rounds in a run, then the 8lb kegs make more sense, especially at today's prices. But, if you find something on sale for a good price - get it! I have several 8lb kegs of Win231, Titegroup, Longshot, CFE Pistol etc that I bought on sale years ago and I'm still using. Ahhh, the good old days of sub $100 8lb kegs.


And whatever you do, don't have a boat and reload... One or the other! Ask me how I know... HAhaha!

 

[dannyd]

Very true words! 1lb of powder is 7000 grains, and at a nominal charge weight of about 3.5 grains per load in 38 Special, that's 2000 rounds worth. When you graduate to using a progressive and are making several thousand rounds in a run, then the 8lb kegs make more sense, especially at today's prices. But, if you find something on sale for a good price - get it! I have several 8lb kegs of Win231, Titegroup, Longshot, CFE Pistol etc that I bought on sale years ago and I'm still using. Ahhh, the good old days of sub $100 8lb kegs.


And whatever you do, don't have a boat and reload... One or the other! Ask me how I know... HAhaha!View attachment 35301

Lived on the boat for 4 years and 9 months of my life, so I will definitely never own one.

Buying powder in large quantities is great if you know exactly what you want to use, but just starting out it could be a mistake.

 

[Montana Cowboy]

Save your worn-out brass and take it to a scrap yard. I had a 5-gallon pale of worn-out brass and Berdan primed cases that I took to a scrap yard and was amazed that I got almost $60 bucks for it. I used the money to buy reloading components.

 

[David Lee Valdina]

If this was mentioned earlier, I didn't see it. Having the ability to reload is nice in the event everything shuts down for whatever reason. Existing ammo you don't need can be disassembled and the components used for the ammo you need. Food for thought.

 

[Klondike Mike]

I started reloading when I was 13 for my Dad's 44 carbine with a Lee Loader and a hammer. This was in 1970 and we were on a tight budget. When I got a Lyman 310 nut cracker tool I thought I was as technologically advanced as I could get. This is probably why I never moved on to a progressive press. Back to your question about 38 Special. I enjoy the old 38 and reload quite a bit for it. I use Speer lead semi wadcutter hollow points at 12 cents a piece, small pistol primers are 9 cents each and my 4.7 grains of Unique rounds out at about 2 cents. So my components total 23 cents per round. So it's not a huge monetary savings but what hobby is? As mentioned above it all depends on whether you enjoy the reloading process and how many rounds you plan to shoot.

 

[Paul B]

When I first reloaded my ammo, one could realize some fantastic savings. I loaded my first rounds of any cartridge in the middle of 1954. Some old time gentlemen that were neighbors got me interested and I finally got parental approval to load my own ammo. Cartridges were the .38 Spl., 30-30 Win. and 30-06.

Currently, for the .38 Spl. I use W231 or for more powerful load Unique. Back then when I started I used Bullseye for the .38 Spl. and Unique as mentioned. Loading tool was the old Lyman 310 took knick named, "The Nutcracker." Slow, but it made good ammo within its limitations. About two years later I bought a Pacific reloading kit and used it in the early 1970 when I replaced it with the RCBS Rockchucker. I'm still using that Rockchicker for everything I shoot except the .375 H&H, .404 Jeffery and .416 Rigby I replace the Rockchucker with a Rockchucker Supreme as those cartridges were too large to load with the original press.

I do have a Dillon 550B set up for 9MM and a full die set up for .45 ACP. I haven't used it in years.

Last run of .38 Spl. I did was 1,800 rounds, all on the Rockchucker. Bullet was the cast Lyman #359495 wadcutter sized at .359" over 3.1 gr. W231. Brass was mixed brands that were separated according to make. Standard Winchester or CCI primers, whatever was handy. These loads were tested using a friend's Ransome rest agains some Winchester factory wadcutter target load at 25 and 50 yards. My loads were noticeably more accurate at 25 yards and totally beat the factory stuff at the 50 yards mark.

I cast my own bullets with an allow that run 11 one the BHN scale and is the one I use in most, if not all my cast bullet loads, rifle or pistol.

I load handgun ammo and some rifle ammo in what I call batch runs. For example for the last run of .38s, It was1,800 pounds. Charge was 3.1 gr. W231 for the 140 gr. WC bullet. I kept it rather simple. I resized 900 rounds on day one. I did the next 900 the next day. Next I deprimed and belled the next step the next two days, 900 each day. Then I primed them, 250 per day until all were primed. Powder was done the same way, 250 a day. Each charging was checked for weight every tenth round.
Seating bullets was done over 900 rounds after checking once more to insure all cases were properly charged. A good flashlight helps when doing that.

Note that while I ran all the brass, I did check all the Winchester target brass for length. They have two cannelures on the case, the second one to apparently stop the bullet from somehow receding into the case like a turtle pulling in its head. The have a habit of stretching badly when being resized.

Paul B.

 

[Kevin]

Start with inexpensive equipment to see if you like it, because I see more expensive equipment for sale from people who just started and found out they didn't like reloading.

Cost will look something like this excusing equipment.



View attachment 35231

I take the opposite approach. I read reviews, watch Youtube videos about different reloading equipment, find out from this fourm and then a little at a time, buy the best reloading equipment I can afford. In the past, with cheaper equipment, it's a struggle to keep everything working properly. Not just reloading, but say woodworking. Years ago I bought a cheap table saw. It was just incapable of making a proper joint. I upgraded to a higher quality saw and my problems went away.

Or with reloading. I bought a Hornady progressive. While it was a great press, it wasn't as nice as a Dillon. Same thing as the table saw. I just recently upgraded to a Dillon 750 and volia' reloading became easier and more enjoyable.


But to the OP. Definitely get into reloading. Especially with reloading 38's. You can get a variety of bullets and powder for that caliber far beyond what you can buy in factory ammo. I really like 38 wadcutters. I know you can buy wadcutter ammo, but it isn't widely available.

And, as everyone has said here, it's a great hobby. Plus you will be able to shoot during the next ammo crisis.

 

[RoninPA]

I'll echo what others have said, if reloading is a chore for you, I'd advise against it. For me it's actually a relaxing time. I don't go for max output per session, just a nice pace and I relax, put the days problems behind me and enjoy my time at the press.

I also started in 1974 with a Lee Loader and a heavy wood mallet. Graduated 18 months later (I'm a slow learner) to an RCBS Junior single stage, then to a Lyman Crusher single stage (still have it and use it for specific calibers), then to a Dillon Square Deal B (loaded a sh*t ton of .38 spl over 3 years of competition - .38 spl brass, 148 gr HBWC, Federal 100 SPP, 2.5 grs RedDot (later switched to 2.5 grs of Solo 1000 - cleaner burning) gave just over 700 fps (minimum required for PPC). Now run a Dillon 550B (with modifications to make things easier and safer) and 9 different caliber tool heads - it does everything that I need it to do at this point in time.

 

[NC FNS]

I'll close this long-winded response with a statement made a few times above. You may not save money,, but you can shoot a lot more for the same money. But if you shoot the same amount as you currently do,, then yes,, you will shoot for less money.

I love the info, even if long-winded. Makes me long for FGuffey on one of the other forums. I think he stopped posting a few years ago when some didn’t appreciate the length of his replies.

 

[Kevin]

Another negative,, especially for a new reloader,, is the learning curve of a progressive (the Dillon) over a single stage. BUT,,, they you can begin on a Dillon,, and do quite well. if you read the manual, and especially if you have a friend who can mentor you in their use.

Contender: Great post. And yes, you are correct, the learning curve on the Dillon is more than a single stage. BUT!!! Dillon has some excellent factory videos on Youtube that go through the whole process step by step and are very helpful. I've watched them several times each and they answer a lot of questions.

 

[Pál_K]

A turret press, like the Redding T-7, is a good choice. Like a single-stage, only one operation is performed at a time on a series of cases, but when you're done with those operations, you simply rotate the turret to the next die and begin the next set of operations. You don't need to be unscrewing and screwing in dies all the time from one operation to the next.

Even so, I have been using a single stage press for over 30 years (RCBS RS3).

With a progressive press, multiple operations occur at once. That's fine for some, but not for me. I like examining each round after each operation. I weigh every single powder charge I throw; I examine the powder level in every case. Have been doing this for many thousands of rounds for over 35 years. Never had any problems.

So I think a turret press is the best of both worlds.

 

[Rob328]

I’m still using an old RCBS Rockcrusher that I’ve had for years. I cast my bullets from wheel weights that were given to me. A little bit of tumble lube, primers, and very little HP-38 or Bullseye or whatever faster burning pistol powder. Very economical compared to factory ammo.
I feel like reloading makes you closer to the gun. Kinda like hunting makes you closer to your food. I enjoy it. Good luck!

 

[jules]

If you are trying to save money I think it depends on how many rounds you shoot at a setting and how often you go. If you go once or twice a month and shoot 50 or 100 rounds you may be better off just buying ammo. I reload for personal satisfaction.

 

[RoninPA]

There is nothing wrong with a single stage, multi stage or turret presses, they all have their uses. I think you'll see that folks that shoot competition (and don't have a sponsor who might supply their ammo) shoot a LOT of ammo, thus need to be able to load a lot of rounds in a short period of time as to not waste time. And I AM NOT saying that using a single stage press is wasting time, I use a single stage when loading specific rifle ammo for hunting.

For example, when I was shooting PPC I was shooting about 1000 rounds a week for practice and then during a match it was another 160 to 480 rounds, depending on how many matches I shot that day. So, I needed to load a lot of rounds every week in a pretty short period of time (I was in the USAF at the time, so you never knew what might happen to your "spare time"). The Square Deal B was my go to reloader during that time. When I got out of competition, due to the USAF sending me to Egypt for a year and then to a new duty station, I ended up (shouldn't have) selling it to a friend who was still competing.

 

[Ctsigsd]

My Lee Turret Press which I bought new for $129 about 20 years ago has well over 30,000 rounds on it and still works perfect. They run about $175 now

Bingo,same here,lee turret,20 yrs old cast iron..runs great..i started in 80s after service,that got me goin in guns,so my investment paid backbyrs ago..

 

[Ctsigsd]

There is nothing wrong with a single stage, multi stage or turret presses, they all have their uses. I think you'll see that folks that shoot competition (and don't have a sponsor who might supply their ammo) shoot a LOT of ammo, thus need to be able to load a lot of rounds in a short period of time as to not waste time. And I AM NOT saying that using a single stage press is wasting time, I use a single stage when loading specific rifle ammo for hunting.

For example, when I was shooting PPC I was shooting about 1000 rounds a week for practice and then during a match it was another 160 to 480 rounds, depending on how many matches I shot that day. So, I needed to load a lot of rounds every week in a pretty short period of time (I was in the USAF at the time, so you never knew what might happen to your "spare time"). The Square Deal B was my go to reloader during that time. When I got out of competition, due to the USAF sending me to Egypt for a year and then to a new duty station, I ended up (shouldn't have) selling it to a friend who was still competing.

Yes same here..when shooting 300 win or 7mm i use single stage..lee turrent handgun small rifle..

 

[Cyrus]

When I first reloaded my ammo, one could realize some fantastic savings. I loaded my first rounds of any cartridge in the middle of 1954. Some old time gentlemen that were neighbors got me interested and I finally got parental approval to load my own ammo. Cartridges were the .38 Spl., 30-30 Win. and 30-06.

Currently, for the .38 Spl. I use W231 or for more powerful load Unique. Back then when I started I used Bullseye for the .38 Spl. and Unique as mentioned. Loading tool was the old Lyman 310 took knick named, "The Nutcracker." Slow, but it made good ammo within its limitations. About two years later I bought a Pacific reloading kit and used it in the early 1970 when I replaced it with the RCBS Rockchucker. I'm still using that Rockchicker for everything I shoot except the .375 H&H, .404 Jeffery and .416 Rigby I replace the Rockchucker with a Rockchucker Supreme as those cartridges were too large to load with the original press.

I do have a Dillon 550B set up for 9MM and a full die set up for .45 ACP. I haven't used it in years.

Last run of .38 Spl. I did was 1,800 rounds, all on the Rockchucker. Bullet was the cast Lyman #359495 wadcutter sized at .359" over 3.1 gr. W231. Brass was mixed brands that were separated according to make. Standard Winchester or CCI primers, whatever was handy. These loads were tested using a friend's Ransome rest agains some Winchester factory wadcutter target load at 25 and 50 yards. My loads were noticeably more accurate at 25 yards and totally beat the factory stuff at the 50 yards mark.

I cast my own bullets with an allow that run 11 one the BHN scale and is the one I use in most, if not all my cast bullet loads, rifle or pistol.

I load handgun ammo and some rifle ammo in what I call batch runs. For example for the last run of .38s, It was1,800 pounds. Charge was 3.1 gr. W231 for the 140 gr. WC bullet. I kept it rather simple. I resized 900 rounds on day one. I did the next 900 the next day. Next I deprimed and belled the next step the next two days, 900 each day. Then I primed them, 250 per day until all were primed. Powder was done the same way, 250 a day. Each charging was checked for weight every tenth round.
Seating bullets was done over 900 rounds after checking once more to insure all cases were properly charged. A good flashlight helps when doing that.

Note that while I ran all the brass, I did check all the Winchester target brass for length. They have two cannelures on the case, the second one to apparently stop the bullet from somehow receding into the case like a turtle pulling in its head. The have a habit of stretching badly when being resized.

Paul B.

2 cannelures is dedicated wadcutter brass and very desirable. Separate that stuff and use it for wadcutters. There is less taper to the case and therefore grips the entire length of the full wadcutter.

 

[Ctsigsd]

2 cannelures is dedicated wadcutter brass and very desirable. Separate that stuff and use it for wadcutters. There is less taper to the case and therefore grips the entire length of the full wadcutter.

Didn know 2 cannalure brass was dedicated wad cutter brass and good stuff! Been loadin all these yrs n didn know..

 

[Ctsigsd]

My Lee Turret Press which I bought new for $129 about 20 years ago has well over 30,000 rounds on it and still works perfect. They run about $175 now

Yes,same here! Started in 1989 with single stage, then about 2003 got lee turret cast iron..Big rifle on challenger cast iron. Still goin great.I buy those turret heads,so jus switch turret head to diff caliber in SECONDS! Never gotta touch dies.LEARNED durin obama shortage.Bought LIFETIME primers durin trump era,35$/1000.. Same with powders..Paid for itself YRS ago.I got bunch Big rifle calibers.4/5$ per SHOT commercial..Just those calibers has paid for Everything yrs ago

 

[HumphreyDaBear]

Like so many in this thread have stated, the length of time to start saving money per round will be number of rounds down the road. I’ve been loading for years and have become painfully aware of prices.

To start up would not be cheap unless you find pre-owned equipment. Press cost, primers, casings, bullets and propellant have seemingly increased arguably geometrically or exponentially your choice of description. Supply chain availability is quarky as well. If I missed it earlier in this thread, I apologize, but besides your press, unless you buy a ‘kit’ package, you’ll need basic peripheral equipment such as dies, scales, possibly lock rings, specialty tools(ie: lock ring wrenches), case prep equipment, a loading bench, appropriate lighting …you get it. A definite downside.

The upside…you can control your loads, when some of my friends call up to set up a day shooting, they’re buying ammo, if it’s in stock. Me, I either pick some out of my stock, or go load up a few hundred rounds, I’m set. This is the real advantage to loading. Plus, to purchase .44 mags where i live, they run between $0.88 & $1.33 depending on the type of round. I can load them for around $0.66 a round

Most importantly, this is truly a labor of love. The detail you need to dedicate for safety cannot be overlooked. When it gets to be work, you should probably take a break. If you decide reloading may not be for you, you can probably find a buyer easily and probably not lose your butt on the sale.

My dad taught me to load, he passed 28 years ago, it’s still the one thing that connects me to him and provides a treasure trove of memories for me to this day. I’m now passing this skill on to my nephew who’s lost both of his parents. He always wanted to own firearms, but his dad was anti gun. It’s been a gift to me watching him grow his collection and learning to load. I hope when I’m gone, he’ll have happy memories of this time with his Grumpy ol’ Uncle.