Reloading 357 Sig

[Buckeye Bill]

I have been using a Lone Wolf conversion barrel on a 40 S&W gun taking it to 357 Sig. I have collected my brass and I think that it is time that I start to reload for this round. I have heard that there some additional challenges with reloading this round.

I need dies. Anyone have experience that you would like to share about the performance of your dies?

Please share your experience with loading for this round.

I enjoy how flat this gun shoots. 100 yard shots with my 5 inch barrel is a snap.

Bill

 

[9.3x62]

I have been using a Lone Wolf conversion barrel on a 40 S&W gun taking it to 357 Sig. I have collected my brass and I think that it is time that I start to reload for this round. I have heard that there some additional challenges with reloading this round.

I need dies. Anyone have experience that you would like to share about the performance of your dies?

Please share your experience with loading for this round.

I enjoy how flat this gun shoots. 100 yard shots with my 5 inch barrel is a snap.

Bill

I've never owned a 357 SIG, but from what I hear, you should never flare the case mouth to seat the bullets, just a light chamfer. The neck is already so small that you would lose even more of the much needed bullet tension to prevent bullet setback if you flare the mouths to seat.

 

[Buckeye Bill]

9.3x62,

That is excellent advice. I am also reading the the selection of a projective that is suitable for 357 Sig is also very important. I think that a Lee Factory crimp die will be a must.

Bill

 

[9.3x62]

Here is a pretty decent site with some good info on reloading the 357 SIG: http://www.greent.com/40Page/ammo/357/357SIG-caution.htm

 

[contender]

If you need more brass, a have a bit. Good luck reloading it, as I've never tried that caliber.

 

[Buckeye Bill]

9.3x62,

That is a great link. I have book marked it so I can return and re-read as needed.

I ordered a Lee Steel 3-Die Set 357 Sig and factory crimp die. Should be here in a week or so. 8)

I will start with Hornady 124 grain XTP and Nosler 115 grain JHP. Both are listed in manuals as acceptable but testing with be the answer. Both bullets can be used for 9mm loading if it does not pan out.

Contender,

The brass would be welcomed as the cost of components is high. I have been buying S&B factory ammunition at $25 a box for brass. I have been searching for sources but until I get to loading, it has been down on my list. PM inbound.

Bill

 

[Pocketfisherman]

There's a really good two part article on reloading the 357 Sig at this link on Realguns - http://www.realguns.com/Commentary/comar65.htm

And here - http://www.realguns.com/archives/001.htm

 

[Buckeye Bill]

Pocketfisherman,

Thanks for the links!

My new dies will arrive on Friday and I should be ready to start this weekend.

I will take a few minutes and do some reading.

Bill

 

[Buckeye Bill]

My dies arrived on Friday and I loaded 40 rounds to get a feel for this new round.

Thanks to 9.3x62 and Pocketfisherman for the links to sites with great information.

Bullet selection is a key issue with the 357 Sig.

Also, extremely slight case mouth expansion, just enough to seat the bullet.

I used a Lee Factory Crimp Die to provide tension to hold the bullet after seating.

Keeping the bullet and case mouth away from lube is important for preventing bullet set back.

I selected Hornady 124 grain XTP and Unique powder.

I test fired my first rounds yesterday and they were 100% reliable and a real flat shooter.

Now to step up production. 8)