Redhawk Hammer spring suggestions

silverback

Blackhawk
Joined
Aug 9, 2012
Messages
591
City & State/Province
el paso texas
well guys just thought i would give everyone a heads up. Can't thank everyone enough for all the help. I work at nights and keep missing super deals on a 5.5 inch but was able to pick up a great deal and weapon from one of our own members. thanks old coot. i would recommend dealing with him any time, great experience.

the 4 inch hoot to shot but now i have to get some buffalo bore ammo to see what its really like. i took the gun apart (thanks to youtube and ruger web site) did a mirror polish on all trigger surfaces flitz jewelers polish and felt head on dremmel. now its butter smooth and fully functional. Trigger almost seems lighter but i know thats just cause its smoother to pull. Still wandering about a lighter hammer spring. I don't want it to be unsafe or loose any reliability,just a bit lighter. anyone have any quality experience they can share?


thanks again.


Paul
 
If it`s smooth I don`t really care what the weight is ,to a degree naturally.

But liter than a 14# spring in a Redhawk is asking for lite primer hits.

The ACID test for Redhawks is a very deliberate & slow DA pull.

I did as you ,fluff & buff but left the factory spring in .

100_1007.jpg
 
You can try a lighter spring, it's an easy change, but as noted most Redhawks need the factory spring for reliability. I know mine does.
egggun.jpg
 
Most people know this, but here is a little tid bit from the Overview page on the Ruger sight.
The Ruger® Redhawk® revolver was Ruger's first double-action revolver specifically designed for the powerful 44 Magnum cartridge. It embodies many advanced features such as a "triple-locking" cylinder, a unique "single spring" mechanism for relatively lighter trigger pull, replaceable front sights and adjustable rear sights, with an all-stainless steel construction.

The Redhawk has a unique action. One spring runs the hammer and trigger, unlike most DA revolvers. Mine has a factory 8.79 DA pull because of this. Any lighter and I would be afraid of consistent and reliable primer strikes.
 
silverback said:
Looks like i just need to work with the stock spring and get the hang of the DA pull. thanks guys.
If you like shooting double-action, try staging the trigger. That is where you start the double-action pull but stop the rotation of the cylinder before the hammer drops. Some people can hold that position almost indefinably. It is then just a light additional pull on the trigger to get the hammer to fall. The Redhawk mechanics lends itself particularly well to that type of shooting. Give it a try, I bet you will like it. :D :D
 
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The indicator of imminent hammer drop on RH is a slight "knock" from the cylinder being locked. I can pull the trigger to that point and further firing from there feels absolutely like SA.
 
I have two Redhawks and have put lighter springs in both of them and they both shoot fine. My DA trigger pull on both guns as well as my GP100 is around 8 lbs 4 oz.

Remember that every gun is different. If your trigger pull is under 9 lbs, I wouldn't bother messing with it.
 
I went ahead and purchased a spring kit from wolf springs and dropped in the 12 lb spring. i figured i would try it out and shoot it to see if i got any light primer strikes. so far so good. It took the trigger to another level. i figure i will keep shooting it to see if and when it develops light strikes. If it ever does then step up to next spring weight. If it doesn't after about 500 to 1000 rounds then I will call it good to go.

I am really enjoying revolvers again. They have their own distinct appeal unlike any semi auto. Their inherient accuracy is super appealling. still i like the idea of 15 rounds per mag and quick reloads of the auto loaders.

That being said....Now I am searching for the a decent deal on a gp100 4 to 5 inch barrel. so if anyone finds one from someone they can trust let me know. I would appreciate it.

My redhawk has the hogue grips and they feel nice but the rubber bugs my strong hand finger by the trigger gaurd. I am thinking about some wood grips to see how they feel... something like gp100man and jimbo357mag pics. Any suggestions ?

Heck....I even traded my saiga S12 for a Ruger Buckeye 38-40 10mm. I shoot the glock 20 10mm and couldn't pass this deal up. super sweet gun....longer barrel a little nose heavy but sweet weapon all the same. Nice rich bluing. Now i just have to decide what to do about the 38-4 cylinder.. leave it or maybe have it set up for the 40 s&w as i won't ever be selling or trading this one.
 

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