Recoil Plate Cross Pin

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texaswheelgunner

Single-Sixer
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
182
Location
Schertz, Texas USA
Hey guys, I purchased my first ever OM .45 Convertable this past winter and it was hardly shot at all. I have since put about 300 rounds through it.....not heavy duty stuff but medium power reloads.

I've owned several Ruger Single Actions but this is the first time I've ever had this happen to any of my Rugers, OM or NM.

The cross pin seems to be slowly rotating during shooting. It was not out of place when I purchased it. And there is no hint that is has ever been removed for any reason, although I cannot know for sure. There are no marks or any other evidence showing it has been removed or replaced.

It is not working itself in or out of place, just seems to be rotating only slightly after every shooting session. Now it is so out of place that it is showing sharp edges. It you could imagine rotating it back to position, the sharp edges would disappear. It appears to be about 180 degrees from where it should be.

Now, I'm assuming it is loose or it wouldn't be doing this.
The recoil plate is not moving and is still in its proper position (flush with the frame).

If I were to try to remove this thing, I can imagine all sorts of problems cropping up.

The main thing is, assuming I can get it back into it's proper postion, how can I be assured it won't start this mess again?

I've about decided just to leave it alone.

But those of you who might have experience with this, what are your thoughts? I do have the Jerry Kuhnhausen shop manual. As far as I can tell, I don't need to remove the recoil plate and firing pin, just the cross pin itself.
 

tek4260

Buckeye
Joined
May 31, 2008
Messages
1,886
Location
carroll county ms
Never heard of that one. I guess you could remove it and use a punch to place a burr on the pin right below the end and gently tap it back in place, indexed properly. Sure hope someone will give you a better answer.
 

flatgate

Hawkeye
Joined
Jun 18, 2001
Messages
6,784
Location
Star Valley, WY
Wow, new one on me. Try a good "bath" in brake clean followed by a lot of drying time then some "Loctite".
Of course the best cure would be a new pin or a very slightly "bent" pin....

Odd, really odd.

JMHO,

flatgate
 

texaswheelgunner

Single-Sixer
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
182
Location
Schertz, Texas USA
tek and flategate, thanks for the tips.

I agree, this is THE oddest of the odd things I've ever seen on a Ruger SA. But, knowing my luck, I get the oddest of the odd.

I may try tapping (to push it out) on the pin from the loading gate side to see how loose this thing is and how much trouble it will be to re-orient it back to original position.

I have no idea what keeps these pins from moving in or out in the base case, that is, to say design wise, what keeps them from moving? ARe they supposed to be a real, tight fit?
 

flatgate

Hawkeye
Joined
Jun 18, 2001
Messages
6,784
Location
Star Valley, WY
They are an "interference" fit.

I'd tap it out enough so you can get a grip on it and rotate it back into position and then I'd use a degreaser and clean the pin's bore real well. (I've had good luck with Non-chlorinated Brake Clean.) Let it dry and then loc-tite the bore and pin and reinstall. Prior to this exercise I'd certainly inspect the firing pin since "now" would be the time to replace one....

Kuhnhausen says the job is tricky and he recommends a "return to the Factory" for proper repairs.

flatgate
 

DGW1949

Hunter
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Messages
3,943
Location
Dixie
Flatgate has you on the right track.

FWIW, I'd try his fixes.....starting with the bent-pin trick, which aint as permanent as loctite.

A return to the factory might be best. except that if you send that nice old gun in for any sort of work....they ARE going to "convert" it by throwing-in their idea of a safety-kit.

Good luck on your project.

DGW
 

texaswheelgunner

Single-Sixer
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
182
Location
Schertz, Texas USA
Thanks guys.

Even if I can get this thing repositioned while it is sticking out, when I go back in with it, (and I can envision tapping it back in place with either a plastic head punch or a brass punch), I'll very likely end up deforming the nicely finished end that is now out of place.

Additionally, the gun shoots about 6 inches high with 250 grain bullets, which means I need a higher front sight.

So, I'm thinking I'll send this thing to Jim Stroh, have him install a higher blade front sight, and also fix this cross pin problem at the same time. I don't think Ruger will change out the blade in the front sight since they will have to mill off the old one, mill in a slot for the new sight, and drill and pin the sight.
 

flatgate

Hawkeye
Joined
Jun 18, 2001
Messages
6,784
Location
Star Valley, WY
texaswheelgunner":3ox7mv3q said:
I don't think Ruger will change out the blade in the front sight since they will have to mill off the old one, mill in a slot for the new sight, and drill and pin the sight.

Nah, Ruger will heat up and remove the old front sight and sliver solder on a taller one for you. You'll also have to pay for a reblue job, though.

99143334.jpg


There's a "tall" front sight assembly laying on the table in the above image and one on the barrel of the old .44 below.

12401192.jpg


It was a wee bit too tall so I whittled it down a bit..... :)

flatgate
 

texaswheelgunner

Single-Sixer
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
182
Location
Schertz, Texas USA
flategate, wow, those are some really nice looking parts you've got there.

I don't think I'll send it to Ruger because the blueing on my gun is darn near like new in the base case.

There's a good pistolsmith near here that can mill in a slot on the old ramp and pin in a taller front sight. That might be how I'll approach that problem. He's done three of my S&W Model 29's like this for the same problem.

I'm toying again now with trying to replace the cross pin myself.

I've ordered a couple from Brownells, assuming if I'm able to get the old one out, a new one, hopefully, will go in tightly (and with some Blue Loctite) and I'll just have to round the new one off on the "finished" side. I won't have to worry about getting the old one back in exactly right according to the "finished" angles. I'll know more when I get the new pins from Brownells.
 

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