recoil buffer

unknwn

Bearcat
Joined
Feb 18, 2011
Messages
17
I ran a search about using recoil buffer(s) in the SR1911 and found no one so far that mentions thier use in these guns. Is there a reason for this?
If you were to install such a product, which brand would you use?
I have seen mention of slide release difficulties? using this sort of thing, Does the Ruger in particular suffer from any sort of problems equated to the polyurethane (or other composition) buffers on the market?
 
I gots two thoughts on the matter:
If Ruger had deemed a buffer to be useful, your gun would have come with one.
If it aint broke, don't fix it.

DGW
 
ACTUALLY, I have a BAR-STO recoil buffer in a COLT NM 45 and it most definately works to beat the band. Bought it from Gil Hebard at least 30 to 40 years ago and it still does it's duty with the original COLT beveled bushing.
 
Skalkaho Slim said:
A solution looking for a problem.

I HAVE WONDERED THIS VERY SAME THING many times. BUT i am here to tell you there is distinctly less recoil with it as there is NO slide-to-frame slap, which is about 90% of the felt recoil from a 1911 autoloading 45 pistol. IF you ever get the chance to shoot a 1911 with a slide lock on it you'll be flabbergasted at almost the total lack of felt recoil.
 
They're not recommended by Ruger or by any other 1911 manufacturer but a recoil buffer most definately works to beat the band and it won't hurt the pistol so in my opinion go ahead and use it if that's what you want but just in case the slide release start giving you difficulties, remove it, end of story.
Automobile manufacturers do not recommend to use gasoline additives but most people do because seem to make a difference in car performance.
 
Skalkaho Slim said:
A solution looking for a problem.

Correct .... More like an imagined solution that CAUSES problems. And when they degrade and break down, and crumble, and jam up your gun .... You'll,understand why no manufacturers use them.

I can't think of a softer shooting gun than the 1911.

REV
 
Have you ever seen a 1911 with a battered frame from normal use? The gun is designed for the forces applied to it.

Buffers fail, and when they do, the gun is out of service. Can get real embarrassing if your playing on a two way range.
 
I CAN SEE you fellows do not know anything about the BAR-STO recoil buffer and how it is designed. IT does not wear out, it does not fail, and is a solid steel recoil spring guide with a heavy spring plunger in it's front that the bushing contacts on it's rearward journey, bringing it to a soft swift stop.
 
revhigh said:
And when they degrade and break down, and crumble, and jam up your gun .... You'll,understand why no manufacturers use them.

REV
And yes they will do this. Had one do it--luckily I discovered it before I NEEDED the gun or it would have been a disaster!

They're great for practice or for "range" (only) guns. But don't keep one in any serious 1911 that you might have to use "for real." :wink:
 
Precision32 said:
Have you ever seen a 1911 with a battered frame from normal use?
Yup. In fact, have seen a Commander frame cracked right where the slide impacts it. A recoil buffer employed for range use would have saved that frame.

Buffers fail, and when they do, the gun is out of service.
Amen. That's why you only want to use them on the range, replace them often, and REMOVE them when the gun is "on duty."
Can get real embarrassing if your playing on a two way range.
"Two way range" ROFL! I like that! :wink:
 
WIL TERRY said:
I CAN SEE you fellows do not know anything about the BAR-STO recoil buffer and how it is designed. IT does not wear out, it does not fail, and is a solid steel recoil spring guide with a heavy spring plunger in it's front that the bushing contacts on it's rearward journey, bringing it to a soft swift stop.

Doesn't matter ... I don't put things on my guns that don't enhance their functionality for any reason.

As for softening the recoil .... AFAIC .... 45's don't really have any recoil. :D

REV
 
Skalkaho Slim said:
I have to admit that I find it humorous that Wilson puts buffers in his 1911's.

'Course they sell buffers too. Ain't marketing grand? ;)
They sell bufferS--notice that it's plural. They're not expected to last a long time. They're a consumable item--and they WILL be consumed. :wink:
 
Snake45 said:
Yup. In fact, have seen a Commander frame cracked right where the slide impacts it. A recoil buffer employed for range use would have saved that frame.

How did you show a cause and effect between the frame cracking and the lack of a buffer?
 
Precision32 said:
Snake45 said:
Yup. In fact, have seen a Commander frame cracked right where the slide impacts it. A recoil buffer employed for range use would have saved that frame.

How did you show a cause and effect between the frame cracking and the lack of a buffer?

I agree ... No causal effect can be shown. Doubtful a recoil buffer would have done anything to stop any cracking.

The 1911 aftermarket manufacturing community is rife with finding solutions for problems that don't exist. It's what they do. Some parts just plain break with usage.

REV
 
WIL TERRY said:
I CAN SEE you fellows do not know anything about the BAR-STO recoil buffer and how it is designed. IT does not wear out, it does not fail, and is a solid steel recoil spring guide with a heavy spring plunger in it's front that the bushing contacts on it's rearward journey, bringing it to a soft swift stop.
GEE! Can't you get the same recoil reduction by running a .22lr conversion?

I concur with "A solution, looking for a problem to solve". 8)
 
WIL TERRY said:
Skalkaho Slim said:
A solution looking for a problem.

I HAVE WONDERED THIS VERY SAME THING many times. BUT i am here to tell you there is distinctly less recoil with it as there is NO slide-to-frame slap, which is about 90% of the felt recoil from a 1911 autoloading 45 pistol. IF you ever get the chance to shoot a 1911 with a slide lock on it you'll be flabbergasted at almost the total lack of felt recoil.

Wil, can you square this statement in light of Newton's third law?
 
Precision32 said:
WIL TERRY said:
Skalkaho Slim said:
A solution looking for a problem.

I HAVE WONDERED THIS VERY SAME THING many times. BUT i am here to tell you there is distinctly less recoil with it as there is NO slide-to-frame slap, which is about 90% of the felt recoil from a 1911 autoloading 45 pistol. IF you ever get the chance to shoot a 1911 with a slide lock on it you'll be flabbergasted at almost the total lack of felt recoil.

Wil, can you square this statement in light of Newton's third law?

WELL, I DO KNOW THIS; IF you put a slide lock on a 45 auto the recoil is piddlin'. THat slide hitting the frame at the end of it's travel is by FAR the lion's share of the felt recoil in a 45 autoloading pistol. It is BY FAR more heavier than the 45 bullet at a puny 850FPS. Just try it once and you will be flabbergasted. AND I do believe that squares very well with Mr Newton's thoughts upon the matter.
 
Precision32 said:
Snake45 said:
Yup. In fact, have seen a Commander frame cracked right where the slide impacts it. A recoil buffer employed for range use would have saved that frame.

How did you show a cause and effect between the frame cracking and the lack of a buffer?
You're right. It probably cracked because of the phase of the moon, or the Dow Jones being down, or some other logical cause. :roll:
 
Snake45 said:
Precision32 said:
Snake45 said:
Yup. In fact, have seen a Commander frame cracked right where the slide impacts it. A recoil buffer employed for range use would have saved that frame.

How did you show a cause and effect between the frame cracking and the lack of a buffer?
You're right. It probably cracked because of the phase of the moon, or the Dow Jones being down, or some other logical cause. :roll:

LOL !!! I'd say it was most likely the NASDAQ.

REV
 
Snake45 said:
You're right. It probably cracked because of the phase of the moon, or the Dow Jones being down, or some other logical cause. :roll:

Was it a cast frame? Could also have been a flaw in the steel.

I've had steel fail many times.

However, it was probably the phase of the moon. I find that if it's just right, a lot depends on how you hold your mouth. :wink:
 
Precision32 said:
Snake45 said:
You're right. It probably cracked because of the phase of the moon, or the Dow Jones being down, or some other logical cause. :roll:

Was it a cast frame? Could also have been a flaw in the steel.
As I said, it was a Commander, so it had an alloy frame. It had had 5,000 rounds of full hardball through it.

Now, if you take a piece of aluminum and hit it 5,000 times in exactly the same place, exactly the same way, with a piece of steel, and it cracks right where it's been hit, I'd be inclined to think that the steel hitting the alloy might have had something to do with the cracking. But what do I know? It probably cracked because of something else.... :roll:
 
Snake45 said:
Now, if you take a piece of aluminum and hit it 5,000 times in exactly the same place, exactly the same way, with a piece of steel, and it cracks right where it's been hit, I'd be inclined to think that the steel hitting the alloy might have had something to do with the cracking. But what do I know? It probably cracked because of something else.... :roll:

I'm trying to have a discussion, not an argument!

Brain fart on my part about the aluminum frame. I would think that the frame would show deformation at the point of impact from the spring guide long before it cracked. Did you find any sign of this?
 
Why does Wilson use them.
I bought a Wilson #614 for my SR1911 which includes a guide rod flat spring and a buffer designed for the guide rod, installed it saw no change. I than installed on my Colt Govt. model which had a two piece guide rod. What a world of difference the action is smooth as butter, and weapon dissembles much easier. I like it for the Colt.

Example of improved product.
Replace an air filter on any auto with a K&N filter and you will see and feel a difference in performance.
add a K&N cold air system and you will see a world of difference. Some things made for improvement do work.

There is a gentlemen on this forum that laughs at the buffer. Bet he doesn't laugh at the K&N, we know who he is cause he lists his autos.

I'm not being a smart ass, but some things work
 
Tipper said:
Example of improved product.
Replace an air filter on any auto with a K&N filter and you will see and feel a difference in performance.
add a K&N cold air system and you will see a world of difference. Some things made for improvement do work.

There is a gentlemen on this forum that laughs at the buffer. Bet he doesn't laugh at the K&N, we know who he is cause he lists his autos.

If you're referring to me .... You couldn't be more wrong.

K&N air filters are probably the worst thing you could do for a car. They flow more .... Sure .... They also don't filter as well. That's proven.

As for a CAI providing 'a world of difference' .... Not a chance. If they provided a twenty percent (or even 10 percent) horsepower increase and better fuel efficiency, (like they claim) every auto manufacturer on the planet would provide them on their cars for the few hundred they cost.

Pure snake oil ..... And the've been shown to wreck your MAF as well, and cause CEL's due to the oil from the filter.

REV
 
K&N can cause oxygen sensor failures in chevy trucks according to my mechanic. I had one go bad just after put in K&N, he said was because of oil in filter, chevy has closed air system and cant stand any oil. I took it back and salesman stated that K&N said they would not cause this, he knew about it, refunded money. Use delco in chevy. John Browning did not use buffers.
 
Never heard of O2 sensor issues(wouldn't doubt it though), but definitely mass airflow sensor issues, and most maf's are about three times the cost of those ineffective kn air filters anyway. If you want the best air filtration possible, buy factory or another high quality filter and change it twice as often as recommended. You'll never have an issue.

REV
 
Air filters are over-rated, just like exhaust systems. Run you vehicle with no air filter and no pipes. Valves, blocks, pistons and rings are replacement parts!
 

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