Recently I was asked about Alaska…

Joined
Dec 19, 2001
Messages
11,144
City & State/Province
Alaska, Idaho USA
I’ve been up here for almost 40 years. I left for a while to do some work to prepare the rest of my life for retirement. I’ve been fortunate to have traveled Alaska far more than most people who were born and grew up here. I’ve had a lot of interesting experiences, to some people my life has been bigger than life in general. Without knowing where all I’ve been it’s hard for some to understand.
As early as 1981 I flew out to King Salmon, where I met a guy with a Super Cub (with floats ) that flew me and a friend out on the Alaska Peninsula, for a Caribou hunt.
He landed us near what was called PBY lake. An old PBY had crashed into a lake and rested there since WWII (as I recall the story) we were actually closer to a lake (lots of lakes out there) we affectionately called duck $h1t lake. So named because when you boiled the water so you could drink it, you had to scrape the white foam off your cup. It was there it became obvious that when you go out to the bush you are literally taking your life in your hands.
Floats are necessary because of all the little lakes out there. The pilot said get your caribou as fast as you can, I think it’s going to freeze soon and I need to get you out. I actually ended up being out there for 10 days but not with 10 days of food, because we expected to be moved to another camp. I never made it to the other camp. Lived on gorp or oatmeal not both for several days.
Something to consider is that if your pilot goes down on the way home or coming back, who knows if anyone will notice. The closest I got to being picked up on our original schedule was 2 days.
So this doesn’t turn into a book, I’ll just list some of the places I visited that aren’t on the road system. Villages are either on a river or on the coast near the ocean. That’s because to travel to have to fly, take a riverboat or a boat most are just Lund boats or flat bottom boats. There’s no extra money in the village for what most of us would consider actual ocean boats.
Besides Barrow, Deadhorse, and Bethel, the places I was at the most, I was in
Saint Mary’s,
Mountain Village
I’ve been miles on the Yukon River, it took 50 gallon drums of fuel for a few trips.
Holy Cross
Kotzebue
Brooks Range
Nome
King Salmon
Illiamna
Naknek
As well as many few people even drive to.
You take a boat to Cordova so you can drive around there
You go to Canada to get back into Alaska to go to Haines
People have very little concept of the few roads here.
I said when you go out in the bush you can be taking your life in your hands. Bear in mind that people hunt off an ATV or side by side. If you can go there so can anyone else that have those. Or a boat, anyone with a boat can go the same place. People can get creative.
Some of us were going hunting in a special place but we had to cross a small but deep river. It was too deep for the ATV’s. So, we had an old, small Jon boat. So the first thing you do is ignore the weight restriction. Then we put a piece of 3/4” plywood across it and get 2 straps and cinch them up so the sides of the Jon boat don’t get too far out and drown you crossing the river with your ATV on the river. And someone is sitting on the ATV to add a little weight and drive off the plywood when you get across the river. Get unloaded and reloaded quick. Don’t forget you are totally disregarding that you’re 3X the weight limit. Not to mention when you come back you are adding a lot more weight with the moose you’re hauling.

The good thing is you learn something every time you go out. Like if you want to go to the Brooks Range, which is north of the Arctic Circle. First you fly, commercial to Kotzebue. Then you get hooked up with a pilot that flies you and your gear with 10 days worth of gear, food, and tents and 4 people out. Now, you scheduled with this pilot 8 month early to get on the schedule. So you get to Kotzebue and no one is waiting to meet you, and everyone is looking at you because you booked with this guy, and sent everyone’s deposit.
Finally a pickup is driving down the dirt road and skids to a stop. He asks if anyone is waiting for him. Then he asks so, what was your name, ok and what did you guys want to hunt? And you tell him, moose is the priority and if we get moose would like to try for Caribou. To cut the story a little shorter, he says he flies out that way nearly every day.
The first 3 days absolutely no moose sign so we put a tarp out so he can move us. Except he doesn’t make it out that way for another 11 days.
We have a slight side track that I forgot.
We could only land on one side of the river.
The best camp is on the other side of the river. When we get there the water is only higher than our knees. Took a few trips to get everything across the river.
Anyway we kept hunting and going out farther and farther.
Long and short, on the third moose the guy that shot it, came back to camp looking for help hauling it out. So we hiked the 3 miles to the moose (who shoots a moose 3 miles from camp, when you are walking?)
We come up over the hill to get the moose and the entire valley is crawling with caribou. We shot 5 of them. Obviously that makes a lot more trips back and forth.
By now the water is up to your crotch which is tricky when you’re packing seriously heavy loads across a fast river.
The pilot didn’t arrive the first day
The pilot didn’t arrive the second day
The pilot didn’t arrive the third day
The pilot didn’t arrive the fourth day
Finally the old man we brought with us said he’ll be here tomorrow. How does he know that? Our wives kept going to airport. Everyday and got tired of not knowing anything about what was going on.
The old man’s wife was given a heads up and she called the pilot and advised him that her husband had a heart condition and that he was out of medicine and if he died she would sue him for his business, his house and his plane and everything he was ever going to have.
Sure enough the plane arrived the next day and when the pilot landed the first words out of his mouth was “who’s sick?”

I’ve never been picked up on the day we’ve planned. The closest was 2 days late. Plan ahead!.
Sorry for the long post.
 
Marlin. Don't be sorry for the long post. We enjoy hearing folks experiences in real Alaska.

And folks, I have met with Bear Paw Jack on many occasions. Always his experiences are wonderful to hear. And then every time, there are more and new experiences we are so lucky to hear about.

Bear Paw Jack lived in the lower 48 for some time and I was lucky to be only ten hours away. And now he's back to Alaska, and the chances of meeting him at a gun show or even just for lunch, are no longer likely. I miss those great opportunities.

Thank you for sharing all this, Marlin. (y)
 
Good stories. I only spent 2 weeks in Alaska and absolutely loved it. I had ambitions of buying a summer place up there, but it was already too late in life and TSA makes air travel so annoying, so I had to can that idea. Old age and adventure are not very good companions.
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change.
OMG.... and I thought the 5 boroughs of NYC were tough to survive in... Well, maybe they're equally tough ?
p.s. GREAT STORIES .... obviously, no "door dash"...! ;)

J.
 
I too enjoyed the posting & stories.

What so many do not realize is that Alaska is still pretty much "wild country" in general, if you get away from the bigger cities. And as such,, you have to be capable of truly surviving on your own if necessary.
I've never been there. But I had a friend who passed long ago who shared his lifelong wisdom of Alaska with me. He allowed it was a beautiful place,, but it could turn cruel for the unprepared.
 
I read in an outdoor magazine back in the 60's. Their tip stuck in my memory.
They strongly recommended a traveler driving the Alaska highway take along some window screen and tape to cover the windows and floor vents (remember those?) to keep the mosquitos out :oops:
in the spring/summer.
 
I didn’t worry about mosquitoes the first time I drove to Alaska. It was the first week in January. I tried to be ready for the cold. I wore Carhart coveralls. The only ones I could find were the red lined ones, I didn’t even know about the black lined ones, that are warmer. I found some heavy mittens that people wear wool gloves under. I took the heavy mittens off and had them between my leg and the door that was very cold. Just imagine, it’s so cold out, it’s uncomfortable to let your knee ( with coveralls) lean against the door. When you are driving by yourself, time has no real meaning, no reason to be on a schedule.
I had a “Milepost” that showed you every mile of the way up the highway. At night I would look to see how far I got and how far I needed to go the next day, so I could stop at a motel.
When I gassed up in the morning, I got stuff to eat and drink because I only wanted to stop for gas.
 
I've been truly blessed to be able to spend time with BPJ (Marlin) over the years. We've visited at many gun shows. Solving the world's & Alaska's problems over breakfast is always a fun time (in fact we are meeting tomorrow morning). Invariably we wind up talking about something from the RugerForum.

He's lived a lot of adventures in his time in Alaska and he's generous to a fault. I'm glad I met him all those years ago.
See you tomorrow Marlin.
 
Just saw this thread and I really enjoyed reading your posts.....I have to ask though with a name of Bear Paw Jack, how many bears have you had to encounter ?? About how big do those things get ?? I have heard a couple of stories about those big bears.....I guess you are living the life out there. In other words you are actually "living" what a lot of guys just dream about, & not many people get to do that. Take care of yourself !!
 
Last edited:
It’s good to read your stories BPJ.
My dad was stationed at Adak, Alaska. I’ve got some pictures somewhere that he had taken. I’ll admit I wouldn’t make it in Alaska because I hate the cold. My only encounter is on a flight out to Philippines. The plane had to stop at Anchorage and refuel. We got off the plane and stayed in a little alcove until the plane was ready.
Had some in-laws that lived in Soldotna that had lots of stories. He worked at a prison. They came to visit us once, and when I took them to the grocery store, they just stood in the aisles and looked at all the fresh produce, and couldn’t believe it.
 
Love the stories! Pass along more any time. You bring back many memories of the stories from my mom and dad. They drove to Alaska on their honeymoon in May 1959 planning to homestead. This was just 5 months after Alaska was declared a state. They lived in Delta Junction on the Richardson highway because that’s where their car died after driving the long Alcan highway. Nine years and us five kids later, they moved south. So many stories, some that are almost impossible for us lower 48ers to comprehend. Keep them coming BPJ!

TomD
 
Back
Top