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roofinspector

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Messages
282
I have read some threads on a longer barreled 45-70 on a No.1 chassis. That got me to thinking about one. I do like a longer barrel in general because of blast. This caliber is pretty much out of my element as to bore size, concepts etc.

I have a donor No.1B in 22 hornet that I got recently for $450; probably paid a bit too much around here, but it is nice. Being the packrat that I am, I have a Shilen #4($135) taper chrome moly barrel, as well as No.1S quarter rib and front sight laying around. I probably can get 26.5 or 27 in finished length. So thinking I can build for around $600 in this caliber, but always having the option of changing caliber etc later on if it does not play out. A bit of work to do, but not too heavy there. Are iron sights really worth the trouble? I will never sell any of the rifle, so resale is not a factor.

So, the concept in the beginning at least would be a No.1B, using the wood from the donor, with sights. What concerns me a bit is the lightness of the barrel blank being a 4 taper. The quarterrib and front sight will go on without a lot of effort, and chopping the blank off at the rear about 3/8" will fit the forearm wood nicely. Slow rust blue the works. Would it be worth pondering, chopping the 1B forend down to AH, and rechecker?

I do not want a 458 in power, but some above the trapdoor loads. Any opinions on do it or not? Wondering about others planning for a longish large bore, perhaps without the power of say a 458 etc.

roof
 

roofinspector

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Messages
282
David,

I am a shooter type, so the caliber of the No.1 is a moot point to me, it is mainly the action that I am interested in; sometimes the wood calls to some degree as well. Barrels whether factory or aftermarket are always removed; hence the $ that will get one in my locality. Most are hornets or bees, but every now and then comes a boomer which no one wants.

I used to be into an older pistol type a ways back; those days are gone now, except for a couple long barreled shooting types that I put together and kept all these years. I always bought my parts for rebarreling, updating from a couple of local sources. I made the mistake of telling an acquaintance where I bought parts trying to be helpful. That acquaintance made arrangements to buy all the parts that were in my sources' inventories, and all of that specific type that would come in, at about 3x of what I could afford; he went into business it seems. I notice that those parts have gotten silly. So one might say, my fun dried up in that venue.

In part, I cannot afford Gunbroker type pricing for no.1's, even though, there are a lot of them over there at the high pricings in these harder times. There always are "collectable" no.1's sitting on any rack, but as most know that are trying to sell, can be hard to move. Everyone is wishing for better times.

I have been watching a non prefixed No.1, probably 2nd year....yes, I know a few specifics on the old ways of collecting(from a long gone perspective); but really is not the driving point anymore, some no.1's have too much empty value for me now. The vintage, if that is the right word, 26" medium barrel, very nice wood, vertical rings, Denver Redfield. Started at 1200, now at 800. I was told I could have it considerably cheaper, but really do not like to pay much over 500. It will come to that sometime, or it will go out with another guy. One tries to keep a budget you know.

As everyone knows, No.1's can vary in price, mainly as to what most will pay on a certain day or if one just gets silly. Cars like the ZR1 can do that to you, just depends if you can resist when that hits you. Everyone has their dreams.

In no.1's I have nothing to sell or trade, the ones I get to buy occasionally are modified to my own tastes, and used only for my own needs. I won't bore you with how many no.1's I have, numbers like that nonsense. I am not a reseller or dealer, just enjoy the non factory side of some things. Not made of money either; like most, I too have to live within my means. I am quite sure that you can find a smiling fellow that will sell you a no.1 for 800-1000; it just will not be me.

In my query on this thread, I once remembered a 38-55(GunDigest?) with something like a Shilen 8 with a set of aperature sights, and a poured pewter forearm. It was a handsome rifle, but too heavy for my needs; the talk here on a longish barrel 45-70 stirred me to ask about folk's concepts on such a type of rifle. I am mainly into smaller calibers, but thought at least I would look into it and ask for other's ideas on a longish 45-70 or the like.

I still am interested in hearing about pondering on the subject. I still think my project is doable for me, somewhat only because I was lucky enough to buy reasonably priced parts and have the parts on hand. Hopefully someone will be thinking of a build, and will share their thoughts on doing it.

Roof
 

29aholic

Single-Sixer
Joined
Nov 19, 2008
Messages
390
Location
Flemington MO
I like project guns built on #1's, but personally I like them a little better in buffalo rifle configurations (big long octagon barrels, and tang sights). I'd hate see a Hornet get whacked for a project, if I had a spare run of the mill gun laying around I'd swap you, but it's your gun and your project make it like you want.
 

roofinspector

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Messages
282
29,

I can appreciate your comments. This is new area for me, mainly in the caliber. A donor rifle is a donor rifle to me, regardless. I feel sure that anything taken apart can be put back to originality as commented on by other members of this board, I just do not choose to do so as my interest changes frequently with new builds.

Roof
 

mike7mm08

Buckeye
Joined
Mar 14, 2005
Messages
1,709
Location
Milwaukee Wisconsin
If you are planning on scoping the gun I would not bother with open sights. Just drill and tap the barrel like the #1V and use scope bases instead of the rib. I would go with a weaver type base. There are so many different weaver type mounts out there you should have no problem finding either a one piece or a two piece base. If you go this route figure out your scope first. Eye relief can be an issue with the #1 and certain scopes. I would mount the scope in rings and attache to the bases and figure out your placement before drilling any holes. You will end up with a perfectly placed scope a not so easy thing with #1s some times. If you are thinking you might like sights down the road I would do a front sight only and still install the weaver base.Why? Well you could go old school and install some type of tang sight. Or NECG makes excellent peep sights that will attach to a weaver style base. The front could be a simple ramp style sight. Again NECG makes very nice front sights with interchangeable beads. Drilling and tapping is a lot less screwing around than trying to use the factory sight and rib.

As for the stock what are your plans for the rifle? You going to be laying it on a rest to do target shooting or is it going to a hunting gun. If target shooting is the main concern I myself would prefer some more stock to offer different positioning on a rest. For hunting I only need enough stock to get my hand on and I like the idea of losing some weight.

It is your rig so do what you want. But I see no problem with what your doing.

If it were my gun it would a close range thumper loaded hot. I would not go the long barrel. I would chop it back as short as is legal scope bases low power scope. Fiber optic front bead with a peep sight to back up the scope. All metal would be cerakoted probable some grey tone to look like stainless. Wood would be replaced by synthetic stock or if the wood was nothing special I would just spray it with bed liner. That and a nice thick recoil pad to finish things off.

That should put the #1 lovers in to convolusions :wink:
 

wunbe

Buckeye
Joined
May 19, 2002
Messages
1,240
Location
Reston VA USA
David116,

I'm sure you noticed that roofininspector never answered you directly about where he found the $450 Ruger 1B in 22 Hornet. His other posts here also mention many such buys on 1s and he has not yet as far as I know given his secret away. And indeed that's his business.

I can say that as a an active tinkerer too with many past builds under my belt and a keen eye on local gun shows, shops, and the inet, my cost for donors long ago -- ten years or more-- passed the $450 mark. I have made a "one of" deal near that fairly recently but it was a store mistake and those just do not happen with any frequency.

Roofinspector must live in a paradise of illiterate out-of-date sellers or the most well-armed and recently poverty ridden area of the known world. Why would anyone sell a mimimum $750 item on the inet for $450?

wunbe
 

roofinspector

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Messages
282
Hi Mike,

I probably thought this project would start as a pistol caliber type No.1, perhaps a 45acp etc. But as luck would have it, no barrels of that type in house here, except for the #4 Shilen aforementioned. Some friends have mentioned the 45-120, but only took that under advisement.

The Shilen taper 4 is fairly light for a 45 caliber rifle, but would like to try some lead bullet loads a ways down in the power levels. Perhaps even shoot some steel in those kinds of club shoots. Iron sights are mostly a cosmetic to me, much prefer the optics.

In either choice, two piece base or a quarter rib; the holes to drill/tapped are about the same work/setup. The #4 contour will fit the factory rib(1s) pretty closely, and I have it on hand as well as the front Ruger sight. I recently got a rifle with a Burris 1 3/4 x 5 scope on it, so with the initial 45-70 type thoughts, might be ok. I really do not have many issues with most scope mountings on No.1's, I just live with whatever. I have used the factory offset rings a time or two when available.

The stock is fairly nice, probably could not paint it. However could go with chopping the no.1b forend down to the AH style.

I have installed a fair number of NECG products over the years, they are very nice products; but again; I have the Ruger stuff on hand and is free to me. I think the barrel up front is too thin for a good screw on ramp style sight, just my opinion. The front banded sight will be soft silver soldered or glued on with a loctite retainer. The retainer is a lot easier on cleanup I have found.

I believe my days with really big thumpers as you put it; are over. I will not shy away from buying a biggie on occasion, but only as a donor type rifle; not too many rhinos in the backyard anymore. I used to think I should be ready for that occasion, but finally gotten over it.......... :)

thanks for the comments,

Roof
 

mike7mm08

Buckeye
Joined
Mar 14, 2005
Messages
1,709
Location
Milwaukee Wisconsin
Have you ever removed a front sight on a #1? I have not but have heard it can be a real pain. To install them Ruger freezes the barrel and heats the sight. No solder. So it will not be a heat til the solder melts removal. Did not think about the screw length for a ramp sight and you are probable right.

I have a #1 in 475 linebaugh which fills my need for a heavy hitter. I can replicate low to mid level 45/70 loads with the same weight bullet of larger diameter.

You seem like me with a project. Spend more time kicking around all the options than you do actually spend building it. Nothing wrong with that. I have never regretted the end results. Best of luck with whatever route you go.
 

vaturkey

Bearcat
Joined
May 1, 2011
Messages
74
There are buys out there for sure. I just purchased an excellent condition Ruger 3 in .223 with scope for $450. The gun was made in 1979. Just need to keep looking and be ready to jump when the time comes. PS. There are loads of other places to find these guns other then just Gunbroker and Auction Arms. Just need to keep digging.
 

Major T

Blackhawk
Joined
Aug 22, 2010
Messages
622
Location
ft worth, tx
Roof, I think I started this mess. For some reason I like to have a fairly large bore in the stable. Realistically, I do not use them all that much and as far as shooting animals goes, dead is dead. Over the years, I have had .45-70s in the #1 (wimpy barrel length/weight,) #3 (all the previous plus brutal recoil with any but plinking loads,) several high-walls (weight and 28" barrel is just right, but scoped [a must] the small low sitting hammer always made me nervous [I even put a scout scope on one] and the recoil on the Winchester Legacy version was almost as bad as the #3.) Right now the closest thing I have is a .40-65 Shiloh. Nice rifle, but I bought it in the wrong barrel configuration and caliber. I got the heavy half-octagon and the bare rifle weighs well over 12 pounds. I suspect the coming Lipsey model of the #1 will be a 26" 1 S and it may be SS/gray laminate. I may just keep on the lookout for a doner. The market in DFW and in Austin for single shot rifles is so bad that dealers are insulting the owners wanting to sell or trade, so most are just keeping them. Unless you can luck into a face to face deal, the market is scarce. Most of my dealer contacts say that if it isn't black, or at least tactical, that rifles are just not moving.

As stated in the other thread, I am bumping 74. Although I am in pretty good repair at the moment, resale could easily become an issue for me or my family.

My decision at the moment is to wait out Lipsey's and see what they offer, or jump on a cheap #1 if I come across one, and do the re-barrel thing. Otherwise I may just duplex load the Shiloh to compensate for the challenged case capacity, or I could send it back to do the .40-82 re-chamber. I am not likely to carry it very far anyway. Most of my hunting is from ambush or on my Kawasaki Mule. Jack
 

roofinspector

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
Messages
282
Hi M.T.,

I can appreciate some of your comments on caliber selection, weight, and just plain correct fit. Balance is really an important thing. I really do not get into the larger bores a lot, but thought I might venture out. A light 45-70 stoked up, is a thumper on the body, hence my warming up to a different design to some degree.

I got the 458 bore barrel blank on a nice sale, and can do my own work on optics and irons, so not such a large outlay as it might be for some that hire it done, my work is free I think.

I have been thru the DFW area, you are right, the retailers/resellers are not giving much for anything; guess just the hard times everywhere. Not a lot different in my little area either. I hear/read about guys talking about $1200+ no.1's, and just cannot imagine; trade in is about $350 most places; they just do not move.

I am using a doner no.1 rifle for my project, a Shilen C.M. 458 bore barrel, and some sights/quarter rib I had laying around. I am going to try to get 26"+ on the barrel, which is a #4 taper. Do not have the reamer in hand yet, but looking around here for a loose ejector of any kind that I can put a new hook on. I think with the 1b forearm it will have some weight up front, but not like a no.1H by any means. I only intend to shoot trapdoor type loads thru it. Always got uncomfortable that when I had a rifle to the shoulder, that I could put my finger in the end of the barrel, just too much blast for me in my later years; I will leave that fun for the kids.

I have to admit, that I am a barrel changer, after the new wears off, I tend to move to another caliber etc. The fun of the day really is to move in circles, and enjoy the hobby.

Maybe we will find the all parts someday for our rifles, and have some more to post.

roof

we are just getting into our prime............... :)
 

DavidMc116

Single-Sixer
Joined
Apr 15, 2010
Messages
383
Location
Dallas/Fort Worth
Thx Wunbe. My Father-in-law used to pick up arrowheads right out of my footprints. I seriously doubt I'll be finding any ruger single shots for $450. But ya know..., that's ok cuz I don't mind paying what they're worth! Amazing guns!

(Maybe Roof's wife reads his post!!!!)
 
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