OM .357 FT Timing Question

[Cholo]

I bought it years ago to have converted to a .44 Special, but it never happened. Today I really got to looking at it and thought if it weren't for a major cylinder turn ring it would rate 97%+ or so. The cylinder locks in place right when it should when cocked very slowly. I noticed at the 3rd click that raises the bolt into the leedes, it was rising way too soon. It doesn't explain the turn ring completely around the cylinder, but it sure ain't right.

I was on the net today looking at the great custom gunsmiths who can make a .44 Special out of it and it left my head spinning :wink: I know they can fix this problem, but what causes the bolt on an OM Ruger to rise too soon? It's apparently something to do with the timing, but all else is OK. It seems to me that something is worn out, but what?

Thanks...

 

[flatgate]

The spring loaded plunger within the hammer "runs" the cylinder latch.
It needs to be of proper length and easily slide in and out of it's "bore" in the hammer.

The ringed cylinder can be caused by a messed up, sticky or too short hammer plunger OR by a very inexperienced
user.........

JMHO,
flatgate

 

[Hondo44]

+1 what flatgate said. RUGER 3 screw guns by design the latch comes up too soon, so unless as flatgate said it's sticking or dirty, likely nothing is wrong with your timing other than the design. Also as he said you can improve it by making a new, longer hammer plunger to delay the latch and I can give you dimensions.

Improper handling of these old design SAs is another culprit. Many do not realize that once you cock the hammer of a properly timed SA, you MUST COMPLETE THE CYCLE. Never drop the hammer from safety notch or half cock; always cycle all the way thru the full cock position and then let the hammer down. If you don't, the cylinder has not been moved thru its full cycle which allows the bolt to pop up on the cylinder surface. The next time it's turned the bolt wears on the blue on the cyl suface.

 

[Cholo]

Carl and Jim, thanks for the responses. At least I now know the cause. The bolt rises almost 1/2 way between the cylinder notches. Obviously it's been mishandled to score the entire cylinder, though it's the worst from the bolt. I bought it to convert to a .44 Special. I wouldn't have even considered it if not for the line. When you look at the gun it draws your eye away from the rest of the gun that's really nice.

If I can fix the hammer plunger where it clicks in place where it should, is there a gunsmith that can re-blue the cylinder to match the OM FT blue? There's a semi beater in the classified right now I could always use as a donor instead.

Thanks for taking the time to respond...

 

[Hondo44]

Were you planning to rechamber yourself or have someone do it? If someone professional does it they will probably have the ability to reblue it and match the gun. Ruger reblues their guns very reasonbly priced. You can get a cylinder from Ruger by sending back a New Model Flat top 44 and asking for a spare cylinder, then fit it to your Old model.

For all SA and DA revolvers - the single most important preventative action you can take and the 1st thing I do on any revolver of mine, new or used is pull the cylinder (or open it, in the case of DAs) and polish the cylinder bolt! They all come with file marks just waiting to carve out a line and groove in your cylinder finish!! With a VERY FINE abrasive wheel in your dremel tool, polish out the file marks and then with a felt buffing wheel and white rouge (for stainless steel) put a mirror finish on it. Don't forget to mask off the frame and breech face all around the bolt with duct tape because the dremel will slip off the bolt. And don't over do it unless it needs reshaping anyway to better fit your cylinder notches. If you do nothing else, this is the single most important thing you can do to avoid that ugly cylinder ring!

Here's my OM FT that I converted to 44; before and after:

Completed conversion to 44 Spl, all steel FT:
OM Super Blackhawk barrel with eagle cut to 4 5/8" with resoldered sight.
Ruger 44 Spl factory cylinder, only now available because of the NM FT mid-size Blackhawk 44 Spls.
Replaced original steel offset slot ejector housing with new steel straight slot hsg for additional ejection length.
Super Blackhawk cylinder pin w/collar; shortened on both ends.
XR3RED Old Army carbon steel grip frame with wide trigger slot polished ready for bluing with SBH wide trigger.
I had originally adapted the new model XR3 steel grip frame but my loads rapped my knuckle.
Ruger factory grip panels but with black OM medallions, and blued screw and escutheons.
Self tuned action.

 

[Cholo]

Thanks Hondo, great tips! I think I'll stick to my original plan and send it off for the rechambering and shortened barrel. I spent the better part of Monday checking out the master gunsmiths who can do this in under a decade. I talked to Hamilton Bowen about doing it, but that was awhile ago, as in oh, maybe 10+ years or so?

I've taken a NM SS apart down to the last piece when I got my 1st Ruger in '75. It went great...except for that extra little part left over. I havnt' done an OM. I've got the book now and understand they're easier than the NM's. I'll check the plunger as mentioned above and check it for functon and length. If I go that route, I'll let you know the length and ask you about the proper dimensions. Thanks for the offer! I think I'll pick up a six pack of guts before disassembly this time though :wink:

 

[Hondo44]

The OMs truly are much easier!

 

[SAJohn]

Also take a good look at the cylinder bolt latch. Obsessive dry firing can wear the latch top service down so much that the plunger will slip off early causing the latch to drop much to soon.