Hello everyone, I’m new here and could really use your help. I just bought a brand new Talo Super Blackhawk 44 with 3.75 inch barrel and it was defective right out of the box. The transfer bar keeps hanging up under the firing pin once every 10 or so times the hammer is cocked. The base pin is fully seated and the plunger is working properly. Ruger sent me another base pin and still the same issue plus the pin will sometimes be loose enough I can pull it out of the gun without even pressing on the latch..... I’ve read that this is a common problem, but the usual fixes haven’t fixed mine so I’m running out of ideas and starting to wonder if I’m going to have to get a gunsmith involved. So, I would really appreciate some help.
NM Super Blackhawk transfer bar problem
- Thread starter Talo44
- Start date
contender
Ruger Guru
Welcome to the Forum!
Well, generally speaking,, the base pin working forward allows the hangup you mentioned. Is it happening when you are shooting it or are you having the issue when dry-firing it?
A base pin should lock in & not move forward at all. The base pin latch assy may not be tight,,, OR the groove in the base pin may be too shallow.
Since you have a spare base pin,,, use a small diameter round file & deepen the groove in one of the base pins & try that.
Next,,, look closely at the transfer bar to see if the top edge has a burr or very sharp edge. See if that's part of the problem.
Well, generally speaking,, the base pin working forward allows the hangup you mentioned. Is it happening when you are shooting it or are you having the issue when dry-firing it?
A base pin should lock in & not move forward at all. The base pin latch assy may not be tight,,, OR the groove in the base pin may be too shallow.
Since you have a spare base pin,,, use a small diameter round file & deepen the groove in one of the base pins & try that.
Next,,, look closely at the transfer bar to see if the top edge has a burr or very sharp edge. See if that's part of the problem.
Thanks very much for the help guys. I bought a Wolff extra power latch spring, how tight are you supposed to tighten them down? If I tighten it too much the latch won’t move, so how much slack are you supposed to have in it? I can tighten it all the way down and my base pin can sometimes still be pulled out without even utilizing the latch..... I don’t know what is going on...
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nvbirdman
Blackhawk
Take a look at Belt Mountain base pins.
Yeah, I would call Ruger, outline the problem, and what has been done to aleviate the problem with the results, then ask for a shipping label. Good luck.
gramps
gramps
Hondo44
Hawkeye
First, to confirm, when the bar hangs up you can't cock the hammer correct?
Check the transfer bar side edges to make sure it's not dragging in the hammer channel and won't let the bar pop back and slide over the firing pin, even with the spring tension of the cyl pin plunger.
Cyl pin popping out is almost always the groove in the cyl pin as Contender posted. Heavier springs or a new latch won't fix it.
Tighten the latch down just enough so when you look in the cyl pin hole, it's not protruding into the hole.
To trouble shoot and diagnose the problem:
When released, the latch should return all the way out to the left with or w/o the pin installed. If it doesn't return as far to the left with the pin installed, that’s the dead giveaway that the circular cannelure groove on the cyl pin is not deep enough to fully engage the latch. The pin will shoot loose. Some cases take awhile and some shooting before the pin slips. Some are that way right out of the box.
Check the transfer bar side edges to make sure it's not dragging in the hammer channel and won't let the bar pop back and slide over the firing pin, even with the spring tension of the cyl pin plunger.
Cyl pin popping out is almost always the groove in the cyl pin as Contender posted. Heavier springs or a new latch won't fix it.
Tighten the latch down just enough so when you look in the cyl pin hole, it's not protruding into the hole.
To trouble shoot and diagnose the problem:
When released, the latch should return all the way out to the left with or w/o the pin installed. If it doesn't return as far to the left with the pin installed, that’s the dead giveaway that the circular cannelure groove on the cyl pin is not deep enough to fully engage the latch. The pin will shoot loose. Some cases take awhile and some shooting before the pin slips. Some are that way right out of the box.
whichwatch
Blackhawk
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2012
- Messages
- 678
Wow, as many different opinions as responses.
Jimbo357mag
Hawkeye
I have had to dress the groove on the base pin to get a good latch.contender said:
Thanks so much everyone for all the help! The problem is fixed! The latch spring assembly wasn’t assembled correctly causing the pin to not seat properly. The first base pin was defective, but the replacement one Ruger sent is now installed properly and is very tight tolerances and holding the transfer back beautifully! Thanks so much everyone!
daveg.inkc
Hunter
I just replaced these parts on a 1975 Super BH. Base pin assy., latch body, spring, and nut. New Base pin is collarless. When latch body is in place, very little contacts the pin. It is very common. I have learned to keep close watch on it. And I bought a tool from Brownells that fits nut. It has a notch in it to fit over latch body when it is tightened.
