NM Single 6 - hammer plunger replacement issues

[Thwkman]

Greetings,

1st time poster so if I'm breaking any rules be kind

The hammer plunger broke in my NM single 6. I found this out after I did a detailed disassembly and I do mean DETAILED. I ordered a replacement along with various pins and springs I would probably lose. The gun is reassembled, boy that was fun, and now there is a significant amount of binding when I cock it and when trigger released it only falls to "half cock". I've read that the plunger is responsible for some if not all of the "timing" of the gun and apparently it designed to allow cylinder rotation while cocking but then ride off the cylinder latch at or near full cock keeping the cylinder locked during firing. When the hammer falls the plunger seems to hang up on the cylinder latch preventing the hammer from fully falling. If you depress the cylinder latch the hammer falls the remaining way. It's almost like the plunger it too long or doesn't retract into the hammer enough because you would want the plunger to keep the latch disengaged after hammer fall so you could unload/load the cylinder. In any event I learned a WHOLE LOT about how this revolver works.

Any ideas besides send it to Ruger? I'm going to call Ruger tomorrow and see if I can talk to a tech but then I thought HEY what about the forum? duh.

Thanks in advance and pardon the wordiness, I was hoping in the course of explaining it I would have an AHA! moment. Alas no AH no HA.

 

[cadillo]

I once had to replace the hammer plunger in a Bisley .45 Convertible. It was an easy direct replacement without any issues. I'm guessing that the Single Six may require a shorter plunger and or spring than the larger guns, and that you were sold the wrong part or parts. I would check the Brownell's online schematics for part numbers of plunger and plunger spring for Single Six vs larger guns.

I bought my plunger from Brownell's based on the Schematic parts numbers lists, and had no issues.

 

[cadillo]

I went to the schematics and the Single Six takes the same parts as the bigger guns. I would take it apart and check the plunger for proper movement in the hammer.

I ruined my Bisley hammer plunger by attempting to cock the hammer with the gate open. It doesn't take much to bend it. Most of my guns are old models which do not have this issue, and at cleaning, I routinely check them for function without regard for whether the gate is closed or not. One day after cleaning and function testing a couple of old models, I cleaned the Bisley, and trashed the plunger by playing with it while the gate was opened. I won't make that error again.

It sure sounds like your plunger is not fully retracting, and thus not clearing the toe of the cylinder latch. I would take it apart and check for proper assembly and binding in the raceway. It's going to be something simple.

If you wind up needing new parts, you are better off getting them from Brownell's. When I ordered my plunger, spring, and cross pin from Ruger, they waited two weeks before shipping them out leaving my gun in suspense for nearly three weeks. No such issues with Brownell's, at least not to date.

 

[Hondo44]

Thwkman,

Welcome to the forum.

If you haven't already, I would remove the new plunger and compare the length to your broken one.

And to save you time, here's MY SHORTCUT FOR REMOVING JUST HAMMER and/or PAWL:

Recognize, you do not need to hassle with the PESKY LOADING GATE SPRING, pull the trigger pin, OR trigger/transfer bar JUST to remove the hammer and pawl. Once you remove the grip frame, the hammer pin is the only other part you need to remove. After that, just pull the hammer back and all the way down, then depress the hammer plunger in the base of the hammer with a small tipped screwdriver to clear the trigger extension where the transfer bar connects to it. Let the hammer & pawl fall out. Reinstall the hammer and pawl back in the same way they came out. Push the plunger in by pushing it against the trigger extension just like you did with the tip of the small screwdriver, and the hammer will slip by the trigger extension. Piece o' cake.

Occasionally a hammer change that just barely cocks is because it's hitting the back of the slot in the grip frame. I have had to slightly lengthen the slot with a few file strokes.

If either the trigger or hammer pin are snug fits, after they're removed the first time, it's the opportunity to polish them so they're slip fits to put back in and remove the next time.

Let us know what you find. If they are the same length, there may be a reason why the new one doesn't work and why the old one broke.

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

Also, look close at the cylinder latch spring and plunger to make sure it is not damaged. Does the loading gate operate smoothly?

 

[Thwkman]

Cadillo, Hondo, and Chuck,

Thanks! I think you might have with cocking it with gate open. I may have done that. I took it apart AGAIN And noticed a slight bend in the plunger.

Hondo44,

I dont have all of the old plunger only the part retained in the slot. THANKS FOR THE TIP!

Chuck

I'll check the latch spring. It was a beeotch getting that pin out the 100 or so times I've disassembled/reassembled the gun LOL

I just ordered a couple of hammer plungers and springs, latch springs from Brownells so back bench that project for a bit.

Thanks to all for their replies.

RON